Well, almost--tomorrow it will be officially April. Looking forward to Palm Sunday here.

Returning, even after only a few months, finds changes. Trattoria Due Torre in Campo Santa Margherita has closed. We ate lunch there on Thursday, noticed pictures being taken and thought that a little strange. While getting the conto I asked about whether they are serving dinner and learned sadly that "today is our last day." I don't know any details, perhaps Ruth or Nan will tell us.

Happily, it seems Monica's Ristorante Riviera expansion is ready so we are looking forward to a delicious meal there soon.

Unhappily, our local alimentari when we stayed near Campo San Vio has closed and appears to be turning into some new tourist shop. This is the one just across and up a few doors from Bar da Gino.

Ruth, I'll PM you about getting together after the 17th. We are here until the 25th.

Ciao for now,

Hi Joan and Fred!
Nice to hear from you da Venezia.

I'm sorry to hear of the closings; I hope you discover interesting new places to replace them ... and then tell us about them.

Cheers,
Colleen

Hi, Joan. It looks like you are having a great time eating among other things there is Venice. I am actually envious. Here I am in the office busy preparing too many tax returns on a beautiful sunny day is San Francisco - very unlike last Saturday's weather.


But in less than a month, we will be in Rome and will be in Venice towards mid-May. Am I looking forward to that.

Well, we are sorry to hear of the closing of Due Torre, but it is good to know about it. That was on my list of places to try for our next trip. Happy to hear that you are in Venice again, though, and we will enjoy any reports you make.

The information I just received on Due Torre was that the owners decided to close because they were exhausted from the long hours, the pressure of finding good workers and all te other problems that come with a small family owned restaurant. I was told that some Egyptians who own other restaurants in neighborhood will take over the restaurant and run it as a Venetian kitchen and pizzaria. We'll check it out when we are there. Ruth

We can report the new owners at Due Torre are already moving in. Will see how quickly they are up and running. I can certainly understand the weariness.

The new Rialto Mercato vaporetto stop is super! Upon exit you are directly facing Casa Parmigiana and only a few steps from Bancogiro. Line 1 stops there between 8 am and 8 pm. Line 3 toward San Marco stops there, too, although Line 4 toward Tronchetto in the afternoon does not.

Have made enough reservations for Pasqua weekend so that I am no longer worried we might starve.

Cubbies, I'm finding your live reports from Venice really fun and interesting to read! Thanks so much for taking the time to post. I love reading live accounts from travelers.

Enjoy the rest of your trip!

Have found a new favorite gelato flavor at Gelateria Il Doge--ciccolata with peperoncino! The heat stays in your mouth after the gelato is gone. DH thinks it is a waste of good chocolate.

Vino Vino is closed for restoration, as is Antico Martini next door.

Enjoying numerous concerts for Pasqua. And absolutely lovely weather.

Ciao tutti,

Terrific weather continues here, and the days are going fast.

Replacements for both "our" alimentari and Due Torre were open for Easter. The latter seems to call itself Trattoria 2 Torri and is offering an 18-euro menu turistico. Have not tried it yet.

I did my good deed last week: saw 2 ladies in Campo Santa Margherita poring over Chow Venice. So I approached and asked if I could help. They were looking for Due Torre so I explained the situation and offered a couple of alternatives. Said they are friends of "Carol from New York."

Today I got my hair cut (feel much more Italian now), had lunch at Bancogiro (such wonderful fish), and will soon meet the Rebeccas at Al Prosecco for spritzes. Life is good!

Bancogiro and Al Prosecco - 2 of my favourites and both in one day. BLISS! I am green with envy !

Have you tried Al Pesador which I think is pretty new and just by Bancogiro and Naranzaria? - I am going to check it out next time (that area is getting very busy bar-wise).

I also noticed at Xmas that Bancogiro actually has a painted name sign outside it now (on the campo side) - I don't remember ever seeing one there before.

Amazing what a bit of competition can do!

Hi Cubbies,

It sounds like the weather is nice already! I am counting down the days (37) til I'm back in Venice. I will try the interesting new gelato flavor. Keep us updated...really enjoy.

Val

quote:

Originally posted by cubbies:
Have found a new favorite gelato flavor at Gelateria Il Doge--ciccolata with peperoncino! The heat stays in your mouth after the gelato is gone.

YUM.

Thanks for helping those ladies with Chow Joan!

Add me to the list of people jealous of you right now. Al Prosecco, in the Spring... sigh.

I am also sad to hear about Due Torre. We stumbled upon it a couple of years ago and had a great meal there while we watched the local children play in the Campo.

quote:

Al Prosecco, in the Spring... sigh.

So, Shannon and Ruth:
In a few weeks I'll be in Venice for my spring trip (April 28 - May 5). What, in your expert opinions which Venice restaurants are best experienced in the spring?

Chow!
Sharon

quote:

Originally posted by SharonZ:

quote:

Al Prosecco, in the Spring... sigh.

So, Shannon and Ruth:
In a few weeks I'll be in Venice for my spring trip (April 28 - May 5). What, in your expert opinions which Venice restaurants are best experienced in the spring?

Chow!
Sharon

Anywhere you can sit outside! Il Refolo, La Zucca, Locanda Montin...

Have you been to Il Refolo yet?

Hi Cubbies,

Thank you so much for these updates! Please say hello to your husband; I can't wait to hear more about your trip! Annie

quote:

Anywhere you can sit outside! Il Refolo, La Zucca, Locanda Montin...

Have you been to Il Refolo yet

I'm definitely going for the outside restaurants (And my apartment has a private garden. I'm looking forward to shopping at the Rialto markets and cooking a nice dinner to eat outside.).

No, I haven't been to Il Refolo yet (my last few Venice trips have taken place when Il Refolo isn't open), but it's on my list for this trip!
Sharon

Il Refolo for lunch yesterday. It is as amazing as Shannon and others claim. Already booked for another lunch next week. This is the first time it has been open since we learned of it, so a new favorite.

In case it seems we are ONLY eating and drinking (almost true!) one of our discoveries this week was an amazing concert at the Frari church on Monday night. The choir from St. John's College in Cambridge is here in Venice for their spring break doing some kind of cooperative experiment on Venetian church architecture and its relation to music composed here. The concert was barely advertised (an obscure mention in Leggo) but tremendous. I hope to attend one of their experimental sessions tomorrow. If I can bring myself indoors from the lovely weather.

This morning we rode the lift to the top of the San Gregorio tower. What a view! And new perspectives for us on how islands of the lagoon relate. We chose a clear day and could faintly see the snow-topped Dolomites.

I am noticing pink shirts and sweaters on local men here. Mostly pale pink, but a few brighter ones. Seeing 3 water taxi men in pink from our window was what first caught my attention. Not all identical: sweaters, polos, and dress shirts, but lots of pink.

Our second trip to Al Garanghelo near Rialto last night. Thanks AnnieNC and Colleen for the reviews that got us there in the first place. The staff is delightful and the food very good.

If anyone arrives before May 6th when it closes, I highly recommend the exhibit of self portraits on loan from the Uffizi. It is in Palazzo Franchetti, immediately on your right after crossing the Accademia Bridge toward Santo Stefano. Excellent descriptions in Italian and English, with many new insights for me.

Off to Antico Dolo tonight. Ciao.

I’m so enjoying your reports, Cubbies! Sounds like you’re having great weather too! My trip isn’t until September, but your reports are making me feel like hopping on a plane right now!

Thank you for sharing your continuing experiences along the way.

Yes, we are home safely and almost functional again. So, just a few notes to close this out before tackling those restaurant and vacation rental reviews.

We met Ruth and Martin at Ciak 1 (where else?) for spritzes (what else?) last Monday. Happily they are both in good health this time, and it was fun to compare stories about apartment rentals and to get a few last minute tips from Ruth before my final shopping for gifts. Decided to concentrate on things from the paper shops this time--picture frames, accordion files, and the like.

I am something of a granita fanatic, with my all time favorite being the Bam Bar in Taormina. When Gelateria Il Doge advertised Sicilian Granita one hot day, how could I resist? Espresso flavor con panna. Texture was good, price excellent, but alas not a strong espresso flavor and too sweet. Guess we'll just have to put a return to Sicily on our agenda.

Thanks to everyone above for your comments. I exchanged notes yesterday who was off to the airport later in the afternoon, heading for Rome and then Venice. I think we will have a continuing stream of slow travellers in Venice for May and beyond. Enjoy!