Hi Sydney Girl,
You might consider taking the funicular down to Orvieto scalo and catching the bus to Bagnoregio, if you haven't done that already. Once you get to the main stop, mid town there is another smaller bus that will take you to see Civita d'Bangoregio which is a picaresque, tiny and ancient village set high on a crumbling hilltop. There are lots of "wandering" opportunities once you climb to the top via the cement footbridge. There are also a couple of great little cantinas to stop for a bite of bruschetta and glass of local, very young wine after your climb. Take your camera, the views are fantastic; the Umbrian mountains, sculpted calanchi and a beautiful green valley below dotted with farms...
There are only 3 tiny shops up on the hilltop in the only piazza. The first two aren't worth the bother, but the third, an organic olive oil/wine shop is worth a long stop. You can do a tasting of the oils and the wines and don't miss walking down under the shop.....when it was being built they uncovered a cave/workshop with a well. It's lit well and has become one of the "new" sites in town...
You can also wander around the town of Bagnoregio before or after getting the bus to its older namesake, Civita. Very different from Orvieto, unsophisticated but charming in it's own way. Ask where the gelateria is and don't miss it, if you're a fan of that sweet. That shop has won awards for their gelato all over Italy for years!
Orvieto:
There's a great little shop up one of the side streets off Via del Duomo that showcases a very good sculpture/potter. He does great reproductions of black Etruscan pottery vessels. Also, a talented wood carver at the end of "artisan row" just down a block from the Cathedral, again down Via del Duomo. He uses a lot of olive wood and makes lovely cooking utensils, bowls, toys, mobiles and the like.
And stop in at Orogami, my favorite jewelry shop on Via del Duomo. Tell Massimo and Tiziana I said hello. They are very friendly and fun to hang out with if they aren't busy.
Where are you staying in Orvieto? Have you visited the National Etruscan Museum behind the Duomo? Only 4 euros to get in, never closes and they have a broad array of artifacts. Plus, they've got "live" fresci from some tombs that were excavated in the area. You have to ask the docents to turn on the lights and let you in as the light is harmful to the pigment and they keep it off.
Do you know about the little wine bar near the Piazza d' Republica? I reviewed it last month. Another one of my favorite spots to plant myself...
Have a great time. Wish I were there right now!
Ciao,
Cheryl
