We have decided to take a side trip to Florence in the middle of our Rome holiday and will only have 2 days one night. I know this is a small amount of time, but what would you suggest as a breif itinerary for this amount of time? I think only one museum.Any suggestions for a tour company? Made a reservation at thr Ritz Hotel on the Arno river any one familiar with this hotel? Suggestions appreciated. Thanks Neal
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Posts: 38 | Location: jacksonville,florida usa | Registered: 17 August 2003
I like Doru's list of museums but I would probably go the other way and pick the Ufizzi and the Accademia as my two. The Pitti is a large rambling, disorganized collection. It has a good number of incredible masterpieces but also a lot of ordinary stuff (ordinary only by Firenze's standards). I love the accademia not for the David, but for the Prisoners. It can be done in a fairly short time.
A few other favorites are Santa Croce and its Museo dell'Opera, the New Sacristy and the rest of San Lorenzo, and the Prince's Itinerary or the Vasari Corridor.
In two days, here is what I would probably do.
Day 1- Ufizzi at opening time by reservation, Duomo, climb to the top of the dome. walk to Santa Croce shopping along the way. Lunch at Antico Noe or at the felafal shop across the alley. After Santa Croce wander across the Arno and shop and explore. Dinner at Beccofino.
Day 2- New Sacristy, San Lorenzo, Mercato Centrale, lunch at Nerbonne in Mercato Central. After lunch, the Accademia, shopping etc.
I say skip the Accademia. Only if you really do believe in your heart one day you will go back to Florence. Right now Michelangelo's David is under restoration. David is now partially surrounded by scaffolding which detracts from the beauty of it.
I did see David three years ago and was blown over by the visual impact. Saw it again last month. Sorry to say it is not the same David. Also the copy of David at Palazzo Vecchio is partially surrounded with a wire fence.
I felt sorry for all the people who I saw inside the Accademia and thought, this could be there only visit in their lifetime. They are only viewing David and not seeing the real David.
Bill
Posts: 454 | Location: East Elmhurst, NYC, USA | Registered: 12 September 2003
The David is without a doubt the most beautiful manmade thing I have ever seen(If you don't count humans as being manmade),I have been attending Museums my whole life, as my mother is a artist.So I have seen most of the famous artworks.When I turned the corner and viewed the David tears were coming down my face.I can only imagine the work and dedication to achieve this perfection.I wouldn't miss this for anything!!,The copy is a ripoff, not even worth looking as you pass through the Piazza.When is the restoration work done? I hope by next May,also does anyone know(in case I go with my mom)if they allow sketching in the Accademia? I assume no easels are allowed.RR
Posts: 6378 | Location: Culver City, CA, USA | Registered: 08 November 2002
Just to see it, and then to be able to walk around it, small step by small step, it is always a revelation. I have seen David quite a few times, but there was always something different, or maybe it's me, the person looking, who is different and sees differently as years go by. Of course, this is true of all works of art and of people.
Then, at the Accademia, after you've had your eyes full with the statue, go to the right (David's left) and play with the computer which allows you to toggle from significant segments of the statue (head, torso, hand) to the whole and to play with the light and allow computer and imagination to blend as you view the statue in “the light of the Piazza della Signioria", when it was there, to see the simulated shadows come and go, the day and the night come and go. It's mind blowing, at least for me, of course.
And yes, they do allow sketching in front of the statue, basically a bit to the right or left against the wall, but I don't know whether a special permit is requested. A month ago, students were there sketching.
We were also fortunate, just as we were preparing to leave, to see the restaurer arrive and climb up to work on the cleaning and we could observe the work for a while. By the way, the scaffolding is pretty inconspicuous, since they keep it at a minimum.
Posts: 5710 | Location: Toronto | Registered: 26 May 2002
We also had a short time in Florence. We arrived around noon from Milan, stayed 2 nights and then left around noon the third day. Our itinerary was very similar to Dean's suggestion. I don't think you'll be able to necessarily do everything that Dean mentions. What time do you arrive and what time do you leave? These will have to be factored into the plan.
We got reservations for the Accademia for the day we arrived because it takes less time to see. We arrived at noon so we planned lunch right off. This may need to be coordinated with your hotel check in, etc. After lunch and a short rest, we walked the area around our hotel to orient ourselves. We visited Piazza della Signoria and walked to Santa Croce Church, we then headed for our 4:00 reservation for the Accademia. It took us about 1 hour to view. We were pretty tired so we stopped for an espresso to pick us up. We made reservations for an early dinner (7:00) at a wine bar and went back to hotel to rest. After dinner, we decided to take in a Vivaldi concert near the hotel. By 11:00 we crashed for the night.
The next day we had reservations for the Uffizi right as it opened. It took us about 2 hours or so to see it. We got the audio tape guided tour. After the Uffizi, we walked to the Oltrarno area for lunch in the Santo Spirito area. After lunch we walked around Boboli gardens and then walked over to the Duomo to catch the sunset from the tower. Then back to hotel for rest before dinner. The next day, we visited the Mercado Central before leaving in the late morning.
I think you could do something similar. I would do 1) Accademia, walk an area, nice dinner. Dean has a great recommendation in Beccofino. 2) Uffizi first thing, nice lunch, visit Duomo and/or Mercado Central before leaving.
Oh yeah, one more thought. Do make certain you choose the right day of the week to visit. Check which days of the week the museum and restaurants are closed. One of the nights we were there was Sunday which limited our choices for dinner. I believe many of the museums are closed on Monday.
Didn't we have a 'Top 10 in Florence' thread a while back? I can't figure out the key words to find it ("too many results - narrow your criteria") but perhaps someone who has the magic touch can help?
Posts: 13715 | Location: The Beautiful San Francisco Bay Area | Registered: 06 August 2001
Make reservations for dinner at IL Ritrovo, Via de’ Pucci 4/A.
Go to the Church of San Lorenzo and its Cappelle Medicee.
Go clockwise around the cathedral to Via del canto dei Nelli. Go east to Via Ricasoli. Go left to the Galleria dell'Accademia (Via Ricasoli,.60) to see the real David. (Even with the scaffolding it is breathtaking)
Gelato at Carabe Via Ricasoli no. 65r
Continue north to Piazza San Marco and stop to see the works of Fra Angelico in the Museo di San Marco.
Next, go south on Via Camillo Cavour (west side of Piazza San Marco) to Via dei Pucci and Palazzo Medici-Riccardi (Via Cavour, 1) and its Cappella dei Magi.
Go West on Via del Pucci (name changes) to Borgo La Noce on right. Go right to the Mercato Centrale and wander about.
Walk down to the train station and take the no. 7 bus to Fiesole. Sit on the Veranda of the Blu Bar and watch the sun go down over the city.
Return to town for dinner.
Day 2
Begin at the Battistero, where you'll find Ghiberti's bronze doors.
Next, head for the Duomo with its majestic cupola, designed by Brunelleschi. Giotto's Campanile, next to the Duomo, is worth a brief visit.
Go across the square to the Duomo Museum (Museo Opera S. Maria del Fiore). See the Pieta by Michelangelo (not the same as the one in St Peter's). (Best view is from the top of the stairs above it.)
Return to the front of the Duomo and go south Via dei Calzaiuoli. On the way you will pass Via dei Tavolini on your left where Perche No? is at 19/r for gelato better than Vivoli. Look for I Fratellini B deli shop at Via dei Cimatori 38r about one block farther down
You will arrive at Piazza Signoria. A copy of David is in front of the Palazzo Vecchio.
Continue south to the Galleria degli Uffizi. Botticelli, Giotto, Michelangelo, and Raphael. Views of the Arno from the upstairs windows and the views of town from the rooftop café. Must sees “Birth of Venus” “Springtime” “The Pieta” “The Annuncion”,
When you leave the Uffizi, take Via Lambertesca to first street and go left to the Arno, A right turn takes you to the Ponte Vecchio. Gelateria Le Carrozza on the Duomo side of the bridge.
Have dinner at Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco 43 Borgo San Jacapo, across the bridge and to the right tel. 055-215-706
Return to your hotel, get your luggage, return to Rome.
Hope this helps.
Posts: 406 | Location: Madison, GA, USA | Registered: 31 October 2002
If your time is limited in Florence (che peccato!) be sure to have reservations for the museums!! We have had good luck with http://www.weekendafirenze.com
And my vote goes for the Accademia (don't miss the prisoners!) and the Uffizi....the Duomo goes without saying
Posts: 605 | Location: Rehoboth, MA USA | Registered: 30 August 2003
I dunno but I couldn't imagine a visit to Florence, however brief, without strolling up to San Miniato al Monte. Also, if the Accademia is part of your plan couldn't pass up Fra Angelico's molto moving works at San Marco. After all they're pretty close to one another. Market-wise I'd choose Sant'Ambrogio over the Mercato Centrale. A little less heavily touristed and well positioned for a lunch at Trattoria Cibreo. Having said all that the Uffizi is obligatory- but in a good way. It's simply the greatest collection of Italian paintings extant. Talk about your Stendahl syndrome. Botticelli, DaVinci, Raphael, Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Titian, Fra Lippo Lippi... (Speaking of Fra Lippo Lippi you may want to check out Robert Browning's poems about him and Andrea del Sarto. Really gives a good feel for early Renaissance Florence. Seems to capture the spirit. Besides just love reading about the wonderfully worldly Lippi.)
Posts: 284 | Location: New Orleans | Registered: 01 July 2003
The Duomo, the Baptistery, the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo. Uffizi, Caffe Rivoire (sp). San Lorenzo. New and old Sacristries, the over--the-top Cappella dei Principi. Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset. Yrs, Robert
Posts: 812 | Location: Santa Monica, California | Registered: 23 March 2002
Although I think the Uffizi is a must, I'm surprised nobody suggested the Bargello, a fantastic museum to visit and a great collection! I support Dean's comment in regards to the Pitti gallery. It's too massive to properly enjoy if you only spend two days in Florence.
Now, my opinion regarding Michelangelo's David differs from the general consensus a little and I hope no one will be scandalized to hear me say that it's overrated! I do think that seeing David for the first time is an incredible experience. It's great to be able to walk around him and to see him from different angles, but I think it may be for sentimental reasons that it is still described as the best statue ever sculpted. It's like seeing Mona Lisa for the first time! Mona Lisa is the most famous painting in the world, but certainly not because it's "beautiful"! Both David and Mona Lisa are world renowned and we feel privileged if we see them in person.
I certainly wouldn't deny that Michelangelo has influenced many artists for centuries and hold an important place in Art History, but I always thought that Bernini was a superior artist. Three of his masterpieces come to mind: Appolo and Daphne, the Rape of Proserpina and the Ecstasy of St Teresa (all in Rome). In terms of craftmanship, I think that Appolo and Daphnee is the ultimate sculpture, for the proportions, the delicacy of the details and its pure beauty. Yes, Bernini rules!!!
For museum reservations, your hotel will make them for you for no charge. Definitely get them, and do avoid going to Florence on a Monday when the museums are closed.
But...I'd pick only two museums...three at most...for such a short visit. For me, many of the glories of Florence are outside the museums. Do include 'drop bys' for the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi/Capella dei Magi and other things that are so beautiful yet very easy to drop in to see (as is David). I love Ira's whole plan, in fact!
SALLY WATKINS, Certified Travel Counselor sally@century-tvl.com www.sallywatkins.com Italy Specialist Certified Swiss Specialist Certified Aussie Specialist My business depends on referrals - please tell someone today!
quote:Originally posted by Sally Watkins, CTC: For museum reservations, your hotel will make them for you for no charge. Definitely get them, and do avoid going to Florence on a Monday when the museums are closed.
Sally, our reservations for the Ufizzi and the Accademia were made by Hotel Casci and we still had to pay to the museums 3 Euro additional per ticket, in both cases, as reservation fee.
This being said, the total per ticket still came at under half of the cost some agencies quote on their web sites, so if one wishes to avoid lineups, or has difficulty standing in line ups, or is in a hurry, asking the hotel to do the reservations is still the best and least expensive solution.
Posts: 5710 | Location: Toronto | Registered: 26 May 2002
One night and two days?? Everybody has had good suggestions! Because Florence is to a great extent a Renaissance city, different from Rome which in modern times has much more of a Baroque appearance, I'd concentrate on the earlier Renaissance to get the contrast. The Duomo and the Baptistery (there's a little wait to get in), the walk up to the dome of the Duomo if your legs are up to it, it's heretical but I'd skip the David and also San Lorenzo. I'd go to the first seven galleries of the Uffizi, Brunelleschi's Hospital of the Innocents, just walk around to see the Renaissance architecture of the palazzos, Cibreo Trattoria for lunch, the Santa Trinita (world's most beautiful) bridge, the view of the Arno at night, the Ponte Vecchio just because. If the city grabs you, you'll return. I guess I'd also go up to Piazzale Michelangelo for the overview of the city, and, if already there, I'd go to San Miniato, which is nearby and absolutely beautiful.
Posts: 2054 | Location: Suburban Philadelphia | Registered: 08 July 2002
Having originally suggested lunching at Trattoria Cibreo while never actually having done lunch there - solo cena- I felt obliged to peruse various guidebooks and the worldwide web to determine whether or not Cibreo is lunchable. Yes, according to what I've read it is. ...although, on second thought, given the brief nature of the visit perhaps a quick lunch near the sights would be better. Finish the day with a multi-course, multi-hour feast at Cibreo followed by a leisurely stroll back to the hotel.
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