In early May we will be spending a week in Pienza and plan to go to the Abby at San Antimo for Sunday Mass. Any suggestions for a really cool place for brunch/lunch near by? The fantasy is that the day will be sunny and warm and we would love to find a place without door seating and a view of the Val D'orcia. In 2006 we had lunch in the perfect place in the village of Volpia. It was one of our favorite memories.
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Check out the Croce di Mezzo Winery. It is about 5 minutes from Sant Antimo, they make a fantastic Brunello, amazing lunch, wonderful people, and breathtaking views.
We go there every week with our cooking tours, and it is always one of the highlights of the week for our guests.
If you do end up there, let Fiorella and Roberto know I said HI!, and I'll see them on May 12th!
It sounds perfect but when I went to the web site it didn't say anything about a restaurant. Am I missing something? By the way we will miss each other by only a few days as we plan on being there on May 2
Right now looking at a beautiful buon ricordo plate that I purchased at Fattoria Dei Barbi winery -- Columbini family have owned this winer"y since forever. There is a restaurant there and there should be a informative website. It is no more than 2km from Sant Antimo on the return to Montalacino it is on the right side.
Went to San Antimo for the chanting 2 years ago. Very moving place. The view of the abbey from the main road is striking, but also the views of the cypress lined roads from the abbey is unforgetable. Also the little village of Castelnuovo dell' Abate should have some very nice restaurants.
If you have a chance read "Bel Vino" by Isabella Dusi. She has written two books about this area and lives in Montalcino.She visits Castelnuovo dellAbate many times so there should be useful information.d
Enjoy!!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 145 | Location: Brookline,Massachuseatts | Registered: 01 June 2004
I remember reading in Bob from Boston's trip report about a place near Sant'Antimo which he highly recommended. I've always wanted to go but haven't made it...yet! Here is a quote from his trip report:
"After the tasting, we ask Angela for a recommendation for lunch. Her recommendation is one of the highlights of our trip, a nice little restaurant named Il Leccio in tiny Sant Angelo in Colle".
Bob's trip report can be found HERE. This was in 2006 so you may want to do a "search" of any more recent reivews.
It is such a beautiful area!!!(I loved Volpaia too)
Barbi is more of a commercial 'touristy' place, but it is very nice.
Croce di Mezzo is the next vineyard over, right between Barbi and Biondi Santi. It is a much more personal experience.
We used to take our guests to Barbi, and they always 'liked' it. For the past year and a half, we have been taking them to Croce di Mezzo instead, and they are always enchanted.
After the tasting, we ask Angela for a recommendation for lunch. Her recommendation is one of the highlights of our trip, a nice little restaurant named Il Leccio in tiny Sant Angelo in Colle
Pokey, we went over to Il Leccio on our last trip (your quote just reminded me - unfortunately, I don't think I took notes).
Great food, nice atmosphere but no view.
Another place that hasn't been mentioned, and I know Robert Rainey will shoot me down as soon as I do, is Bocco del Vino just outside Montalcino. Amazing view of the Val d'orcia. I know others had iffy experiences there but in May 2005 we ate there at least twice and had great meals with a great setting. Here's a link to one of those days.
Here's the view:
Now, none of us want rain on our trip, but if you get a day that's not so nice, and you still want a great view of the Val d'Orcia, there's a wine bar within Montalcino, Osticcio, that has a great view over the valley but you're inside. I don't recall them serving full meals there but they do have nice plates of salame, cheese, etc (and for some reason I do remember simple salads and maybe soup). I think it can be a tad pricey but a good view, and amazing selection of wines.
I am sitting in my sunroom in Baltimore at 7 AM looking out at all the stupid snow from our last two storms when I saw the photo that you posted. How do you expect me to last until May?? This view is amazing but why would Robert shoot at you?
Robert had a bad experience there after I had eaten there - I think he thought for the price the food wasn't worth it - it's not typical Tuscan (at least it wasn't when I was there), more Tuscan with a fancy shmancy spin - but that view !
Oh, and Dale, check out the Green photos in the EaT forum, if you need a break from the white of snow - it's working for me.
I had a bad exerience at the Fattoria dei Barbi 2 years ago with a group of 6. We found the meats overcooked and when one of the ladies mentioned it to them they were very unapologetic, said simply that "this is the way we do things here" and became very cold towards us for the rest of the meal.
This was completely unlike the the wonderful experience we had the day before at a restaurant called Pestello in the Chianti where not only was the the service perfect, but the Florentine steak was the absolute best we have ever had.
I've been back to Pestello many times since with other people and never again to the Fattoria dei Barbi.
Personally, I would never sacrifice a really good meal for the sake of a view. You can have a view anywhere, i.e. while on the road and stop for a picture opportunity, from many perches around the small towns, possibly from the place where you are staying, etc.
We had one of our best meals at Les Barriques in Montalcino and it included our VERY best Florentine steak ever. It was so good I took my best friend there for a special birthday dinner when we were there once again about a year and a half ago. My Texas born and bred friend proclaimed it THE best steak she ever ate. No views and no outdoor dining.
What happened is the following- No negative reviews were posted on the site for B.D.V. only 2-3 positive reviews. So we met another couple there. We had not just a slightly off experience but way off, poor service, poor food, expensive.
I posted about it on the board and FIVE people said oh yeah I had a bad experience there too, AAAAHHHUUUUh I responded that is exactly why bad reviews should be posted!!!!!!
A very long thread was posted about why its not fair to post bad reviews, etc. etc. RR
Your feelings about Fattoria dei Barbi perfectly mirror an experience we had there, which is why we stopped taking our groups. We would go there every Wednesday with groups of 8 to 14 people, and a certain 'unapologetic' and 'cold' attitude was so incredibly significant one day, that neither I, nor any of our staff have ever set foot on the property again.
Since then, I have spoken with many of the other winemakers in the area as we would travel around with our groups, and their reputation is very well-known, even amongst the locals.
Thanks for the update on Fattoria Dei Barbi Taverna.Things change sometimes for the worse. We were there last in 2005 and it was very up to my standards. Perhaps it helped that we bought a case of wine and had my two very lovely young Italian cousins with us and we all spoke in italian and if anyone was "maleducato" they would have had a response from any of us.
Read the restaurant reports for Castelnuovo dall'abate- Bassamondo looks very good
Posts: 145 | Location: Brookline,Massachuseatts | Registered: 01 June 2004
If the weather is mild enough in early May, I suggest taking a picnic and simply sitting on the grassy area outside the church and letting the tranquillity and beauty of the place seep into you. A great spot for a meditation. I sat there for a couple of hours one time.
Avoid going there mid morning and mid afternoon when throngs of tourists arrive on buses. Or maybe you want to be there for the same reason they are--to see and hear the monks chanting inside the church which is a lovely experience, especially if you sit at the back of the church so you can look out the little window at the other end that frames a bit of Tuscan landscape.
Since then, I have spoken with many of the other winemakers in the area as we would travel around with our groups, and their reputation is very well-known, even amongst the locals.
Michael, I am so glad I'm not alone. I hate it when people are snobbish. I'd much rather be in an unassuming place somewhere eating good and honest food.
I posted about it on the board and FIVE people said oh yeah I had a bad experience there too, AAAAHHHUUUUh I responded that is exactly why bad reviews should be posted!!!!!!
I often wonder if I hit an off day when I've been somewhere before that I had a positive experience and end up later with a so-so one. I wrote a positive review for Les Barriques in Montalcino in 2007 but this past October had a mediocre experience when there with several friends. I didn't end up writing a review - maybe I should have.
BTW - Sant' Antimo has added parking meters. I'm fairly sure I was there last May and they were not there but they were in place in October.
Posts: 80 | Location: Massachusetts | Registered: 13 November 2005
[/QUOTE]I often wonder if I hit an off day when I've been somewhere before that I had a positive experience and end up later with a so-so one. I wrote a positive review for Les Barriques in Montalcino in 2007 but this past October had a mediocre experience when there with several friends. I didn't end up writing a review - maybe I should have.[QUOTE]
Here is my take. Granted every day is not perfect. Maybe the cook is sick, power problems, etc. But 99% + they should be the best they can be. That is what my customers(patients) expect. If someone has a bad experience here go ahead and review me, I know I have great reviews and the occasional bad I can take. When you look and there are 5 bad ones-avoid! (unless there are 50 good reviews)
Information is good. Including things like price please. 100 euro for a meal for 2 for example is moderate to some,expensive for many. Granted the 100 euro can be great value but that dosn't mean the price is not important.
I would second the recommendations for both Il Leccio and Boccon di Vino. We had lunch at Il Leccio in September before visiting Sant'Antimo for the chants. We sat outside and it was lovely - the inside of the restaurant was also charming. We had dinner the next day at Boccon and had a wonderful meal with great service. Just my 2 cents.
Posts: 35 | Location: Portland, OR | Registered: 11 February 2010
This is not well known as it is new. but it is superb: La pieve di Poggio alle Mura. From Sant'Antimo take the stunning road coasting Montalcino hill and with the Val d'Orcia on your left. Then go down to Bafi's castle but continue, you will get to La Pieve, lovely place, perfect food, and fantastic landscape. Attached picture actually taken from the restaurant.
Alternative is the POZZO, near Leccio, more Tuscan less expensive. Portions are huge...
For a great restaurant that has amazing food, amazing service, and an amazing view; you have to go to Boccon Di Vino. It is only a 10+ minute drive north of Sant Antimo, and just about a mile south of Montalcino.
THIS IS IT!!!!! THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR. I just knew that what I was looking for existed and I knew that someone one the board would help me find it. Thank you all for taking the time to answer my questions, all of your suggestions and comments were greatly appreciated and it is why I come to Slowtravel first when we plan our trips to Italy. You guys are the best. By the way Tony do you happen to know exactly what road the restaurant is on? I went to the web site and the map they have is fine except none of the roads are labeled and it sort of looks like a bowl of pasta without the yummy cinghiale sauce. Mille grazie
Yes, Boccon di Vino. We were there and we like it - lovely view too. But our favorite restaurant in all of Italy is about 20-30 minutes from Pienza - Il Conte Matto. It is in the small village of Trequanda. Wonderful, wonderful food. And a lovely view over the Crete and vineyards. Linda
Posts: 1017 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
We were there in September for dinner and had a wonderful meal. If the onion soup is on the menu, be sure to order a bowl - it was outstanding! We also had a wonderful lunch at Trattoria Il Lecchio in the tiny town of Sant'Angelo in Colle near Montalcino. Very cute town with great views and lots of cats!
Posts: 35 | Location: Portland, OR | Registered: 11 February 2010
Oh yes, yes! The place in Monticchiello, Osteria de la Porta. We rented very near that place in 2007 and we were over there every day for something - coffee, lunch or dinner. It is very welcoming and genuine. Good regional food. Yes, go there sometime during your stay. Linda
Posts: 1017 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
This place looks truly amazing we will absolutly need to go there for lunch along with all the other wonderful suggestions. The only concern I have is the cost. Oh not the cost of the meals but the cost of an extra seat on the plane back that I am going to need because of all the weight I’m going to put on. Some times when we go on vacation we find ourselves living from meal to meal and for an Italian vacation it’s one of the reasons we go. Thanks for all of your help we will submit some restaurant reviews when we come back
While looking over this thread, I noticed Robert Rainey's remarks about meal costs. The three places Linda referenced: Boccon Di Vino, Il Conte Matto,and Osteria de la Porta are not remotely in the same price range.
Our Boccon Di Vino lunch was like "going to heaven" but will probably end up being a once in a lifetime (or so) special occasion. During week long visits to the Trequanda area, we have eaten at Il Conte Matto twice a week ( and once detoured there for a Sunday lunch while travelling from Luca to Assisi). While spending a week near Monticchiello, we ate a La Porta at least five times. It should also be mentioned that lunch and dinner dining at La Porta differ considerably. In the evenings, it moves upscale (while remaining affordable).
Steve
Posts: 1017 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
Excellent point Steve. Boccon Di Vino is quite pricey and let me stress again, at least when we were there, more Tuscan food, with a twist. I found La Porta to have delicious food and to be homier, more comfortable. The first was closer to where we stayed (thus our repeat visit) but I think I prefer the latter, especially if I could sit outside.
Ah, but I'm reminded of the original question - the first, is definitely much closer (10 minutes) to Sant' Antimo than the latter.
Your post has brought me back to our memories of Italy and all the great restaurants others have mentioned - Sant Angelo in Colle is a quaint village much smaller than Montalcino and close to Sant Antimo although it does not have view from the restaurant you can walk 25 yards and look down over the valley which is outstanding - I think translated it means Saint Angelo in/of the Hill/Clouds-
When we visited Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona Winery - Angela reccomended Il Leccio - IL Leccio has very good food and if the weather is good I would recommend it so you can sit outside in the small town Piazza to have your lunch/dinner. The prices are reasonable.
Il Pozzo is also in Sant Angelo in Colle and has been highly recommended by Dean - who IMHO is The DEAN (pardon the pun) when it comes to wine & food in this area. We have used his recommendations many times in the past and have never been let down.
Sunday the wineries may not be open but you may want to check them anyway - Uccelliera and Ciacci which are located right behind Sant Antimo on the "white road" maybe 2-3 km down the road. Since our visit to Uccelliera their 2004 Brunello was rated 97 points by Wine Spectator this past fall. Now it is no longer our little secret and the prices have soared.
The other restaurants mentioned are also very good they may be a longer drive, depending on your destination they may work as well.
This is why I love Slow Travel! I have copied and pasted all these recommendations into my file for the Crete! I know everything about my own area of Umbria but I am looking forward this year to truly explore the Crete to find recommendations for my own guests. My Italian family has recommended the experience of Sant Antimo and I look forward to that also! Mille Grazie Folks!
Here is a quote from his trip report:
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I can't wait.
