Our plans are starting to take shape - slowly. Our friend Kyla has decided she'd like to join us, and altho she'd love to find someone to travel with, it'll probably just be the 3 of us. That raises problems about hotels, since the single rate is usually expensive, and I don't think we're really close enough to want to rent a triple room.
We're thinking that Kyla will be with us for about 2 weeks, then we'll stay a little longer. We'd planned to re-visit both Rome and Florence, so altho Kyla might not see ALL the touristy stuff, she'll get a good mix of those along with some things most people don't see until their 2nd or 3rd visit, and like most people, she's thrilled to have someone else do the planning!
Right now I'm concentrating on our first few days in Rome. We're planning to spend 5 nights in Rome and I'm wondering about the possibility of renting a small apartment, maybe even a one bedroom place with a pull-out couch. I've read some suggestions on another thread that sparked that idea, so for now let's just assume we'll be someplace we can fix breakfast, have a frig for snacks, etc. I doubt we'll do any cooking, but who knows.
Here are the sights we want to see, in no particular order - we'll have to figure that out later once we decide what day we'll arrive.
Forum/Colosseum/Palatine Hill. I saw that it's possible to book a 3 hour tour that includes the Colosseum (including the lower portion) AND the last hour is in the Forum.
What about any other 'specialty' tours - aren't there some houses you can tour on the Palatine Hill?
Capitoline Museums. We've never been here, and there's a special exhibit on thru Sept 9, which I'm hoping will be extended.
Borghese Gallery. This is on our list every single time, no matter what.
St Peter's - even if we decide not to visit the Vatican Museums we can still squeeze in a visit to St Peter's.
Various churches/museums featuring Carravaggios. We've done this before and would like to expand our search!
Pz Navona, Campo dei Fiore, Jewish Ghetto
We're still waiting on Kyla to give us her list of must-sees, which we'll try to accomodate as much as possible. If she's dying to see the Vatican museums we'll probably go, but if she's not that into it, we'll find something else to do.
So....given that our first day we'll arrive around 9 a.m. and will be tired, does 4 1/2 days seem like too much at the beginning of the trip, or too little? Rome can be an overwhelming and tiring city, and we want to give our friend a nice taste of it without overloading her. For the record after Rome we plan to take the train to Florence where we'll spend 4 nights, then one night in Orvieto, then we'll pick up a car and drive to central Umbria and stay with friends. Kyla will probably be with us about 4 nights in Umbria where hopefuly she'll get a chance to relax a bit after the big cities.
It's been a long time since we've been tour guides and want our friend to understand why we love Italy so much! Any suggestions for the Rome portion of our trip?
You don't say how old Kyla is, but it sounds as if she's young enough to tolerate a few nights on a pull-out couch (which I personally wouldn't tolerate any more) so your idea of bedroom-plus-couch sounds good.
4 1/2 hours sight-seeing on the day of arrival is probably the maximum. (I'm assuming you'll take a break of at least 1 1/2 hours at mid-day for a leisurely welcome-to-Italy-lunch break, so 4 1/2 hours is ambitious.)
May I suggest you make that first meal an all-antipasti spread at Orso 80--not far from Piazza Navona? We always make it our first lunch stop in Rome. I won't say it's Rome's finest cuisine, but it's very good, and it's great fun, and inexpensive by Roman standards. Also, it's an amazing experience for a first-time visitor to sit there and watch the dishes pile up as the waiter brings more and more offerings to the table. Just ask for antipasti, water and the house wine. I guarantee, Kyla will rave about that first meal when she's back in the States.
We've always enjoyed the Baths of Caracalla as a way of getting a sense of scale for just how big the structures of ancient Rome were. Usually not many people there and it is a nice stroll through and might be a little bit of a break from the crowds at other locations.
BTW, we were surprised this past October at the size of the tourist crowds in Rome -- was our first time there in the fall and we were expecting a LOT fewer people around us.
Posts: 937 | Location: Northern Virginia | Registered: 22 May 2006
San Clemente is an easy addition before or after your Forum/Colosseum/Palatine Hill tour. Just a few minutes walk from the Colosseum.
The layers of history are not to be missed. There is a nice restaurant across the street from the church which is "outside" the tourist restaurant crowds.
hmmmmm.....Kyla's mid 50's, great shape, easy-going - but really, do you think the sofa bed will be uncomfortable? Now you've got me worried!
No, we won't be breaking any speed records taht first day - getting settled in, having lunch, maybe just taking a stroll.....
Thanks for the suggestions of places to see/eat. We've never been to San Clemente or Palazzo Olivia, and somehow we always end up near the Baths of Caracalla but have never gone in. I'll also add Orso 80 to the list!
Alpinista, we went to Florence in Oct 2009 for a quick visit and were amazed at the number of tourists - and I'm betting it'll be the same this fall - all us baby boomers with no kids school schedule to tie us down!
Barb, I used to be OK with a sofa bed and I can't do them anymore. There are good sofa beds and bad ones but I won't take a chance. I'm not in my fifties, but I am getting closer. Sofa Beds =
When Colleen and I were in Rome in 2010 and wanted two rooms on a budget, we stayed at B & B Marlu. There is breakfast included, and I think you could use the refridge to keep snacks in. We did have to share a bathroom that was down the hall, but it was only for us. There is another room with a private bathroom. We really liked it - was like staying in an apartment...
I too was a bit worried when you mentioned a sofa bed for Kyla. I can no longer tolerate most of the one's I've been stuck with. But don't let that change your mind about apartment rentals. It's a wonderful way to go. Just do a bit of research ~ as you are doing ~ read the details and reviews, talk to your friend Kyla to determine her limits and desires... and you should be fine!
I had two friends who wanted to go to Roma with me in the Fall of 2010. I thought great! With three of us sharing the cost, I can rent one of my favorite apartments that would have been ridiculously extravagant for a solo traveler.
I sent them the web site, we talked extensively about the rental but when they got there and had to walk four flights of stairs, several times a day, I thought I would never hear the end of it... and I haven't...
I think the Palazzo Olivia that Bob the Navigator mentioned are apartment rentals?
I would second visiting San Clemente! The layers of history under this basilica are remarkable. The little electric bus #117 goes right by San Clemente (and the Colosseum, just before it) on it's way from Piazza del Poppolo up to San Giovanni in Laterano. Have you taken these little buses on your previous trips? I love taking these little guys one way and meandering back "home".
Happy travel planning! Heidi
Posts: 107 | Location: West slope, Sierra Nevada, CA | Registered: 08 July 2010
My husband and I and a friend also stayed at B&B Marlu last spring. We had a single + a double, sharing a bathroom, just the 3 of us--no problem as we have rented two bedroom/1 bath apartments together before. (The reason my husband and I didn't rent the room with ensuite bathroom was that we didn't want our friend to share the bath with strangers.) We really enjoyed the accommodation: great neighborhood, nice common area with computer access and possibility of meeting other guests, warm welcome from Marlene, our hostess. We'd definitely stay there again.
Posts: 440 | Location: Virginia | Registered: 24 April 2003
I agree with the others on the sofa bed idea. I'm in good shape, easy-going and not much older than Kyla, but there's not enough wine in Italy to give me a good night's sleep on a sofa bed. Leaving the king bed at home and sharing a queen bed with my wife is hardship enough.
Posts: 471 | Location: Fairfax, VA | Registered: 30 June 2005
Check out VRBO #336305 and #215521 in a building directly on Campo di Fiori. We have stayed in both and had four people each time. It is the same manager (and owner of the penthouse apartment). We have had three wonderful stays in these apartments.
Thanks for setting me straight on sofa beds - really, I had no idea!
Podie, I checked out the 2 VRBO listings you mentioned - the first one appears to have one BR and a sofa bed, so I'm guessing that won't do, and the second is way out of our price range. Also, I'm wondering how quiet this location is in the evening? I guess the search continues!
Heidi, thanks for letting me know the Palazzo Olivia was a rental, not a site - duh. And no, we've never taken the electric busses - something new to check out!
Personally I love the catacombs, one is San Callisto...now I can't remember the other but you can google and find...there is certain to be some great art exhibitions, but take some time and get down to Pompeii-most hotels have excursions for this.
Posts: 97 | Location: Orient Point, Long Island, New York | Registered: 05 September 2001
Hey, Barb and Art! Don't forget the (Creepy) Cappucine monks museum with all the bones of the dead monks! It's both freaky and fascinating. And if you can see the bronze Boxer piece, it's most impressive. I'd need to research where it's housed at this point since I know it was moved a few years ago. But I'm sure someone on this forum will know where to find him!
Have you visited the Mamertine Museum? I was truly moved while visting. If it hadn't been for Peter Kilby, we would never have known about this place in the Forum. Make sure you go down the steps to the location below the main floor where Paul and Peter were imprisoned. Also, as you start down the steps, you will see a spot in the rock, which legend says is the face of either Peter or Paul. Sorry, it's been a while since visiting and I can't quite remember which.
Of course, there are questions as to the validity of this story.
The Boxer is now at the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, one of several sites of the National Museum of Rome. You're right, Cheryl -- it is magnificent, and the frescoes upstairs are incredible. Definitely one of our favorite museums in Rome.
Aloha, Ann
Posts: 1764 | Location: Sunset Beach (Haleiwa), Hawaii | Registered: 16 September 2001
Originally posted by Ciao Janice: take some time and get down to Pompeii-most hotels have excursions for this.
We'll not be visiting Pompeii this trip, but for anyone else, I'd STRONGLY recommend planning for a few days south of Rome - Pompeii as a day trip from Rome is doable, but in my book makes for too long a day with too much time on the train and too little time in Pompeii.
Barb, is there any way that you can stay in Rome longer? There really is so much to see (as you know) but with crowds and warm temperatures (even in the fall) it often seems that a person never does as much in a single day as planned!
I think you have a great list of sites (I really love the Capitoline Museums) and the addition of San Clemente is a great idea. Any interest in some of the older churches with great mosaics? Santa Maria Maggiore and nearby Santa Prassede, for example?
And of course, I'm hoping I'll still be here so we can get together!
Originally posted by sandrac: Barb, is there any way that you can stay in Rome longer? .............
...........And of course, I'm hoping I'll still be here so we can get together!
Sandra, YOU are one of our 'sites to see', along with our friend Rachele!
Sadly, in order fo us to be able to visit both Rome and Florence with our friend, as well as share some time in Umbria with her, 5 nights is the best we can do. We might be able to come down a few days before we leave if there were things we (still) didn't get to see - but with Rome there's ALWAYS something new to discover, or something old to REdiscover!
Barb, I look forward to seeing you and Art, too! It is too bad you won't have more time in Rome, but I know you'll make the most of the time you have here.
It sounds like you are an art lover so a must see are the Caravaggio's in St Luigi dei Franchesi near the Piazza Navona. Be sure to put a few coins in the light meter to be assured of a spectacular and moving sight.
Why not visit the beautiful little church of Saint Ignatius located near the Pantheon? When you enter, stand on the stars in the pavement of the nave and look up at the cupola. Then look at the floor while you walk to the star under it. You will see that the cupola has collapsed! It is a trompe l'oeil! It is only paint applied to the flat ceiling. The dome doesn't exist. It never fails to make you smile. Outside you can rest in a beautiful little square that somewhat resembles an outside theatre. Gorgeous.
At the Capitoline, look out for an amazing sculpture called 'The Dying Gaul', the level of detail and craftmanship beggars belief. The museums themselves offer great views over the Forum. There are so many other wonderful sights and experiences but to really enjoy, I feel that you have to discover them almost by accident so they have a personal meaning to you . I hope you have a wonderful time.
I agree with everyone about sofa beds being so uncomfortable. I am going to recommend the apt we stayed in that had 2 day beds. Basicly a single mattress that are very comfortable.
The apt is very reasonably priced, centrally located to everything. And you can see from the pictures, the day bed in the living room alnog with a couch and also there is a little alcove in the entry that has a day bed.
I think 5 days is probably good - if you are not trying to do it all. And I love all these ideas - perfect for my trip planning too!
As for sofa bed, why not just ask Kyla? If she is willing to put up with it, or pay a bit extra not to, then there you go. (I for one am with the consensus - no way.)
It is in Aventino area, but with excellent transportation links (walking distance to two metro stops, many buses in front of the door), and we walked to the colisseum from here easily.
I stayed there with my daughter and a friend - lots of room, good facilities, good air conditioning and an elevator. 15 minute walk to Testaccio market. Close to a really good artisanal gelato place. Really a great rental apartment.
Lots of privacy, although there is only one bathroom.
I do not recommend sofa beds. Also if you are on different sleep schedules, someone in the living room can be awkward. This apartment was great because the bedrooms could be closed off from the living areas.
Originally posted by TourMama: Barbara - here is the review #2701. I did search Sleep in Italy's website and found this "Gesu" apartment; note that the listing says
quote:
The apartment is on the fourth floor with NO lift
which would be a deal breaker for me!
Judy
thanks Judy! And yes, I'd have to agree with you - Four floors (I'm assuming that means FIVE to an American) would be too much withour an elevator!
Barbara and Art - Mi displace! I'm obviously a neophyte to the ST forum - and apparently, I'm also all thumbs when I tried to send the URL for the Gesu' apartment site. Thank you Tour Mama -Judy - for setting it all straight! My recommendation is a moot point now anyway, as too many stairs seem to be a deal breaker for your Rome rental.
I've rented innumerable apartments in Rome, for myself and friends - I'm NOT an agent, just a Rome freak - and as I think about it, they were all 3 to 4 flights up because I love having a terrace.
In my research for friends - also three - who will be in Rome this Spring, I found a two bedroom apartment in Monti, called "Monti" , with a private garden and no stairs, on via Baccina. It looks very appealing. The agency is www.initaly.com. Though I have never rented the Monti apartment, I can recommend this California based company because I've used their services several times for farmhouse and apartment rentals.
In case this helps, I've now rented my last five apartments in Rome through www.lacasaroma.com. I email Charlotte giving her my dates, number of folks and our needs and she sends back several possibilities. Her attentive service has been wonderful.....
Good luck with your continuing research!
Heidi
Posts: 107 | Location: West slope, Sierra Nevada, CA | Registered: 08 July 2010
