AEOLIAN ISLAND HOPPING: hydrofoil, fast ferry and traditional ferry, what's best?
Slow Travelers should be aware that there are three types of public transportation connecting the seven Aeolian Islands (Vulcano, Lipari, Salina, Panarea, Stromboli, Filicudi, Alicudi) to each other and to the Sicilian mainland (mainly Milazzo, also Messina, Cefalu and Palermo): hydrofoils, "fast" car ferries and "traditional" car ferries. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages:
Hydrofoil:
This is the most expensive, most frequent and fastest way to go. The hydrofoil, operated by both SIREMAR and USTICA LINES (SNAV has withdrawn service except between the Islands and Naples, once daily in summer), carries between 150 and 250 passengers, and no autos. Single or double decked, it is all-enclosed, i.e. no open deck area. This makes it virtually impossible to take good photographs or videos. Moreover, the windows, not much removed from the water line, are often marred, fogged up or simply dirty, making clear views of the water and of the approaching islands very difficult. The hydrofoil is subject to cancellation in bad weather, and is subject to lots of "rocking and rolling", which can cause sea sickness. Dramamine should be carried (and perhaps taken in advance) as a precaution. The hydrofoil should be avoided by travellers who desire to appreciate the natural beauty of the islands, or who want to take photos or videos. Between Milazzo and Lipari (one hour, most stop briefly at Vulcano), there are 17 daily hydrofoils in summer, 13 daily in winter. Service to Vulcano and Salina is nearly as frequent. Less frequent service to the other islands. HIGH season fare from Milazzo to Lipari is 11.30 Euros; Palermo to Lipari 31.30 Euros; Cefalu to Lipari 21.69 Euros; Messina to Lipari 16.50 Euros; Reggio di Calabria to Lipari 17.50 Euros; Naples to Lipari 74.90 Euros and Naples to Stromboli 56.80 Euros (twice daily, summer only).
Fast Ferry:
From the beginning of June to the end of September, the SIREMAR "traghetto veloce" (fast ferry) "Isola di Stromboli" operates non-stop to Lipari ONLY two or three time per day (thrice daily beginning July 1 at 9:30, 13:20 and 17:15). Travel time is one hour. At 4,460 tons and 312 feet in length, it is a large and striking vessel, so large that it can't dock at most of the Islands. It accommodates 800 passengers in reclining seats on two decks, as well as 168 autos, but has no open deck area from which to take photos or videos. Once again, not a good choice for landscape or seascape gazing (but nevertheless better than the hydrofoil). Milazzo to Lipari in high season costs 8.40 Euros. The fast ferry does not stop at Vulcano. NOTE: During June, the fast ferry does not operate on Wednesdays.
Traditional Ferry:
Operated by SIREMAR, the 1,555 ton "Filippo Lippi" and "Giovanni Bellini" carry 800 passengers on two decks and 70 autos at a leisurely speed. They measure 210 feet in length. NOTE: Siremar is in process of substituting larger traditional ferries on the Aeolian Islands routes. The traditional ferries have a large open top deck ideal for taking photos and videos. Daily departures year-round from Milazzo at 7:00 (for Vulcano, Lipari and Salina, continuing on Tuesday and Friday to Panarea, Ginostra and Stromboli, the other days to Rinella, Filicudi and Alicudi); 9:00 (for Vulcano, Lipari and Salina only); and 18:30 (for Vulcano and Lipari only). The traditional ferry is the least expensive (6.60 Euros from Milazzo to Lipari in high season) and slowest transportation (two hours from Milazzo to Lipari; six hours from Milazzo to Stromboli or Alicudi). Much better seaworthiness than the hydrofoil, the traditional ferry is usually not cancelled except in very bad weather. Bar service (coffee, drinks and snacks) helps pass the time. NOTE: The 7:00 ferry operates on Saturdays only from June 1 through September 30. The 9:00 ferry operates on Sundays (but at 9:30) only from April 1 through October 31. The 18:30 ferry operates on Sundays at 17:30.
Reservations:
You don't need reservations on the inter-island services. On hydrofoils to Milazzo, Cefalu, Palermo, Messina or Reggio di Calabria, reservations are usually not needed, except during the height of the summer season during peak travel times (such as the first boat out in the morning).
Reservations on the twice-daily summer hydrofoils to Naples (Ustica Lines and SNAV) are strongly suggested, as are reservations for cabins or reclining seats on the year-round SIREMAR overnight car ferry to Naples. On the overnight ferry, once cabins and seats are sold out, you're stuck with "deck passage", which means no guaranteed place to sit!
RECOMMENDATION: Take the traditional ferry at least once, possibly more often. It's an EXCEPTIONALLY REWARDING way to travel around the islands.
TIP: If the hydrofoil and the fast ferry leave at roughly the same time, take the fast ferry ("traghetto veloce", not to be confused with the traditional ferry). It costs less, covers the distance in the same amount of time, is much more seaworthy, less subject to cancellation, and affords much better panoramas from its large windows than does the small hydrofoil skirting the waives. Between Milazzo and Lipari, in particular, the fast ferry affords a much more comfortable ride than the hydrofoil. You can also take the fast ferry between Lipari and Salina, but not elsewhere in the archipelago. The fast ferry operates from the end of March to the beginning of October.
TIP: Want to take an informal, self-directed, delightful, comprehensive sightseeing circuit tour of the Islands? Take the traditional car ferry from Milazzo all the way to Stromboli and back in one day, on Tuesdays and Fridays only, year-round. Depart Milazzo at 7:00, arrive at Stromboli at 13:00, after calling at Vulcano, Lipari, Salina, Panarea and Ginostra. Return from Stromboli at 14:15, with arrival back in Milazzo at 20:00. Round trip fare in high season (Milazzo/Stromboli) is 21 Euros.
On the OTHER days of the week, you can go all the way to Alicudi via Vulcano, Lipari, Salina, Rinella and Filicudi, for 25 Euros round trip, departing from and returning to Milazzo at the same times. The ferry stops at Alicudi for 40 minutes before turning around. (NOTE: the Saturday ferry to Alicudi operates only from June 1 through September 30).
Too tiring? Take the ferry in one direction, and the hydrofoil (faster and more frequent) in the other direction. Be sure to spend lots on time on the top deck, particularly when approaching each island. There are many seats to choose from in the public salon when not admiring the views. You can also sunbathe on the open deck while sitting on the plastic benches at the rear of the ship.
If you shorten this circuit to afford a longer stopover on one of the islands, the Archeological Museum atop the Citadel on Lipari is a world-class cultural experience. A night on Lipari town in the summer can also be great fun, for those who can do an overnight trip.
Once back in Milazzo, there are several good hotel choices very close to the docks. The Intercity Night (ICN) train going to Messina, Salerno and Roma Termini departs from Milazzo at 20:56 (there are no trains going towards Palermo that late in the evening).
This self-directed circuit tour takes in FIVE of the SEVEN Aeolian Islands, and is particularly attractive to those who can park their rental car in Milazzo (or arrive by public transportation) and dedicate a 13-hour day to the Islands. While there are several private boat tours of the Islands (mostly out of Lipari), none to my knowledge do a circuit of five islands all together, as does the SIREMAR car ferry. This five-island circuit is useful for those who are pressed for time, can only dedicate one day to the Aeolian Islands, and who are not put off by the prospect of spending a full 12 hours on the ferry boat.
BE SURE TO DO THIS TRIP IN SUNNY WEATHER AND WHEN SEA CONDITIONS ARE NOT ROUGH.
There is yet a second car ferry line which services the Aeolian Islands from Milazzo: www.ngi-spa.it However, its ships are basically freighters with very limited amenities, they are smaller, slower and accommodate fewer passengers. They don't offer anything more than what Siremar Lines offers, except slightly different schedules which sometimes afford more turnaround time at Stromboli and/or Alicudi (to allow for freight operations). One might consider taking one of these ferries on days when the Siremar ferry was not operating.
You can reach Milazzo very easily by train (Messina to Palermo line) or by bus. The train station is about 2 kilometers south of the town, and is connected to the port by local bus and by taxi. The first and last local bus of the day is usually timed to coincide with departing or arriving ferries or hydrofoils. Giuntabus Lines runs frequent buses to and from Messina in 50 minutes (3.10 Euros one way) from Monday to Saturday. There are fewer services on Sunday. Giuntabus also has a daily direct bus to and from the Catania Airport in two hours from April 1 to September 30 (10.33 Euros one way). www.giuntabus.it
Ustica Lines is offering hydrofoil service from Naples to the Aeolian Islands for the Easter Weekend, from Good Friday, March 25, 2005, to Tuesday, March 29 (allowing for up to four nights on the islands).
Normal hydrofoil services don't start up until June of each year, so these schedules are out-of-season.
Naples to Stromboli is 4 hours and costs 59.80 Euros each way. Naples to Lipari is 5 hours and costs 77.90 Euros each way. The hydrofoil also stops at Panarea and, on the return, at Salina.
NOTE: If the hydrofoil is too expensive, you can take the much cheaper overnight car ferry from Naples to the Islands (under 35 Euros for a reclining seat), or the Intercity train to Milazzo (15 Euro advance purchase promotional rate in reserved first class), then the ferry (6.30 Euros) or hydrofoil (10.10 Euros) to the Islands. The combination train/ferry is the cheapest method of transportation.
For July and August 2005, there will be a second car ferry operator sailing between Naples and the Aeolian Islands, competing with the traditional SIREMAR car ferries:
Medmar Group will sail from Naples every Friday night at 23:00 to Stromboli, Panarea, Salina, Lipari (ar. 8:50 on Saturday morning) and Vulcano.
Return from Lipari on Saturday evening at 21:35, with arrival in Naples on Sunday morning at 7:00.
NOTE that the Medmar ferry is ONE HOUR FASTER to Stromboli than the Siremar ferries.
Sailings once per week during July and August ONLY.
Service will commence anew on June 23, 2006.
One way fare Naples to Stromboli 30 Euros; Naples to Panarea 35 Euros; Naples to Salina, Lipari or Vulcano 38 Euros.
Extra charge for automobiles. No cabins available (SIREMAR ferries have cabins and reclining seats).
Ferry ship "Lora d'Abundo" measures 269 feet in length, 49 feet in width, travels at 20 knots, and accommodates 895 passengers and 140 autos. The Siremar ferries are considerably larger.
The SIREMAR "traghetto veloce" Isola di Stromboli, at 312 feet in length, 55 feet in width, and displacing 4,460 tons, is easily the largest, most modern and most attractive ferry ship in intra-island service between Milazzo and Lipari, surpassed in size only by the twin ferry boats "Palladio" and "Laurana" between Milazzo, the Aeolian Islands, and Naples.
Isola di Stromboli can accommodate 800 passengers on two decks, 168 autos, and travels at a speed of 28 knots, assuring a one-hour non-stop crossing between Milazzo and Lipari. It runs from June through September, subject to cancellation for bad weather. From July though September, it departs Milazzo daily at 9:30, 13:20 and 17:15. Seat reservations are not taken, nor necessary.
NOTE: Beginning with the summer 2005 season, the fast ferry NO LONGER sails to Santa Maria di Salina.
The "traghetto veloce" costs just a little more than the traditional ferry, but is nearly twice as fast, and much, much more seaworthy than the more expensive hydrofoils. It is the ONLY fast ferry operating to the Aeolian Islands.
There is minimal open deck space, and, for safety reasons, passengers are not allowed to linger on the open deck once the boat reaches cruising speed. This is in contrast to the practice with the traditional ferry.
This message has been edited. Last edited by: GAC,
We arrive in Palermo for 1 nite, then wish the next day to get to Milazzo for fast ferry to Lipari. What is best way to travel? Is there fast train? Is it part of Trenitalia? What time would it leave Palermo and how long is the ride? Grazie
Bear in mind that there is a YEAR-ROUND direct hydrofoil from Palermo to Lipari, operated by Ustica Lines, which avoids having to transfer in Milazzo. Service is twice per day (7:00 and 16:45) from June 15 through September 30, and Monday, Wednesday and Friday morning at 7:00 during the remainder of the year. The morning hydrofoils stops at Cefalu. All hydrofoils stop at Alicudi, Filicudi, Rinella, and Santa Maria di Salina, enroute to Lipari. One way fare in summer is 31.30 Euros, a little less in other periods. Travel time is 3.5-4.0 hours.
If the hydrofoil schedule does not work for you, or if you prefer to avoid it, there is always daily Trenitalia train service to Milazzo (2.5-3.0 hours), followed by a hydrofoil, fast ferry or traditional ferry to Lipari. The two morning ICplus trains are your best options. Only these trains certainly have air conditioning. At the Milazzo train station, there is frequent local bus service to the Port (only hourly on Sundays).
The combination train/hydrofoil will cost less than the direct hydrofoil from Palermo, but requires more transfers and may ultimately take a little more time. On the other hand, the train ride is quite scenic.
IMPORTANT UPDATE: NEW SUMMER SUPER FAST CAR FERRY NON STOP BETWEEN NAPLES AND LIPARI ISLAND IN 4 HOURS
For the first time in history, SIREMAR Lines will connect Naples with the Port of Lipari (Marina Lunga), by super-fast car ferry, in merely FOUR HOURS. The ship will sail non-stop between Naples and Lipari, skipping all intermediate islands.
The ferry ship "SCORPIO" (leased from Tirrenia Lines) will operate out of Naples at 13:00 on Wednesdays and Saturdays from July 1 through September 30, and out of Lipari on Fridays at 12 noon and on Sundays at 10:30. Travel time in either direction is 4 hours. High season fares are 85 Euros in second class and 110 Euros in first class.
During the month of October, Scorpio will sail from Naples on Sundays at 13:00 and from Lipari on Saturdays at 10:30.
Thereafter, there will be no further sailings of the super fast ferry until mid-June 2006.
"SCORPIO" and its three "Jupiter Class" sister ships are the largest fast car ferries in the Mediterranean. Displacing 11,350 tons, the ship measures 478 feet in length, 72 feet in width, and accommodates 1800 passengers on two decks and 460 automobiles. There are two snack bars on board, and reclining seats for all passengers. There are no cabins.
THIS THE THE ABSOLUTELY FASTEST METHOD OF PUBLIC TRANSPORT BETWEEN LIPARI ISLAND AND NAPLES.
NOTE: as a result of the introduction of this super fast ferry, the frequency of the overnight TRADITIONAL car ferry has been reduced, essentially to TWICE per week year-round, excepting between July and September (four times per week).
NOTE: a reclining seat on the traditional ferry costs about HALF that on the super fast ferry. 44.90 Euros versus 85 Euros. There are exactly 200 reclining seats on the traditional ferry. The seats are more comfortable than coach class on a transatlantic flight, but not as comfortable as business class.
IMPORTANT UPDATE: SUMMER HYDROFOIL SERVICE BETWEEN NAPLES AND AEOLIAN ISLANDS
SNAV Lines is now operating a giant catamaran between Naples and the Aeolian Islands, in substitution of its smaller hydrofoils.
The motorboat "ORION" is 50 meters in length, travels at 40 knots, and can accommodate a whopping 700 passengers on two decks. It is the largest and most modern catamaran in service in the Mediterranean. Built in Singapore, it was pressed into service last May, just in time for the summer 2005 season.
Travel times and fares are identical to those for the smaller hydrofoil, now operated only by Ustica Lines.
NOTE: The less expensive but slower, year-round overnight traditional car ferry operated by SIREMAR Lines continues in service between Naples and the Aeolian Islands, now with the much larger and more comfortable ship "PALLADIO" in service.
From November 1 through March 31, maritime services between Milazzo and Lipari Island are as follows:
1. Siremar car ferry daily except Saturday at 7:00; daily except Sunday at 9:00; daily at 18:30. One way fare to Lipari 5.60 Euros. The 7:00 ferry proceeds to Salina, Rinella, Filicudi and Alicudi on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday; to Salina, Panarea and Stromboli on Tuesday and Friday. The 9:00 ferry proceeds to Salina only. All ferries stop briefly at Vulcano en-route to Lipari. Travel time to Lipari is two hours. Travel time to each of Alicudi and Stromboli is six hours.
2. Hydrofoils 13 times daily (7 with Siremar and 6 with Ustica Lines). One way fare 10.20 Euros. First hydrofoil at 7:05 (Siremar); last at 19:00 (Ustica Lines). Hydrofoils stop briefly at Vulcano en-route to Lipari. Travel time to Lipari is one hour.
3. Hydrofoils at least once daily to Filicudi and Alicudi; twice daily to Stromboli; more frequent to Salina.
4. Hydrofoil service thrice weekly from Palermo via Ustica Lines. One way fare to Lipari is 28.20 Euros.
5. Hydrofoil service daily from each of Reggio di Calabria/Messina via Ustica Lines. One way fare to Lipari is 15.70/14.80 Euros.
6. NO hydrofoil or catamaran service to Naples until June 2006.
7. NO fast car ferry service ("traghetto veloce") to Naples until June 2006.
8. Traditional car ferry service from Naples to Aeolian Islands on Tuesday and Friday evenings only; return to Naples on Monday and Thursday only. One way fare between Naples and Lipari 34 Euros and up. Crossing takes 14 hours to Lipari; 11.5 hours return to Naples. Ship is the "Palladio". Cabins, reclining seats and non-reserved passage available. Cafeteria and bar service on board.
9. Car ferries and hydrofoils to the Aeolian Islands from Sicily don't take reservations (nor are they required).
10. Between Naples and the Aeolian Islands on the traditional overnight car ferry in winter, you really don't need to worry about reservations, either, unless you want absolute assurance of snagging one of the 158 twin cabins, in which case you could book one or two days beforehand. In low season, these ferries almost always travel with a light (or very light) passenger load.
11. Crossings (especially on the hydrofoil) are subject to cancellation for bad weather. The car ferry to Naples is not frequently cancelled, as it is a rather large ship.
The Siremar website has been updated to reflect ferry and hydrofoil sailings through May 31, 2006.
Of particular note, in connection with services from Milazzo to Lipari and return, is the seasonal restoration of non-stop "Fast Ferry" ("Traghetto Veloce") service effective April 1, as follows:
Two runs on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday;
One run on Sunday
No service on Wednesday
The Fast Ferry is IN ADDITION to normal ferry and hydrofoil service. It costs a bit more than the normal ferry, a bit less than the hydrofoil, and takes the same amount of time as the much smaller hydrofoil.
These Fast Ferries will continue to operate between Milazzo and Lipari through the beginning of October 2006.
BAD NEWS: Siremar has just posted its updated maritime schedules for the remainder of 2006, and apparently the super fast car ferry SCORPIO (subcontracted from Tirrenia Lines) will NOT NOT return to service non-stop between Naples and Lipari during the summer. Apparently last year's pilot program did not return satisfactory results.
Additionally, the traditional overnight car ferry service on PALLADIO (or sister ships) between Naples and the Aeolian Islands will operate only TWICE WEEKLY for the remainder of the year (not doubling in frequency during the summer months, as in years past).
Also, the summer-only fast ferry service nonstop between Milazzo and Lipari will operate only once daily (excluding Wednesdays), but the slower ferries will continue to operate as last year.
Continue to check the website for possible future service updates.
Thanks for posting this information about ferries and hydrofoils to the Aeolians. I visited the area twice, taking a combination of both, and I can say it was one of the most rewarding trips of my life. I'll never forget approaching the cone of stromboli by hydrofoil .. I'll never forget the sight of a fisherman rowing out from Ginostra to the hydrofoil to get the sack of mail which almost ended up in the sea when they tossed it aboard. I'll also never forget the most harrowing sea voyage of my life, from Lipari to Naples, on a hydrofoil with the sea at forza 5 and everybody terrified, and wondering why on earth the captain had decided to sail in such conditions. It was more like a submarine than a hydrofoil, and after that, I decided no more Siremar hydrofoils for me.
i'm supposed to be arriving in Catania HArbour next 6th June 2006 in order to arrive at lipari. i was thinking of walking it to catania bus station and taking a SAIS bus to Messina and:
1. either go to Lipari directly from Messina - depending if the bus stops far from Messina harbour? I think only ustica lines goes from Messina to Lipari?
2. to catch giunta bus to milazzo. which would be the best way to reach lipari from milazzo:ustice lines (i think they only have hydrofoils), siremar (the website is very confusing) or another company??
The most direct route would be to take a taxi or the airport bus to the CATANIA AIRPORT. From there, take the Giuntabus airporter bus (April 1 through September 30 only) at 16:00 (ONLY at 16:00) direct in two hours to the Milazzo Dock; thence either the 18:30 car ferry or a hydrofoil to Lipari. The Giuntabus service costs about 11 Euros, and you should telephone the company to inquire whether the bus makes a stop at the Catania bus depot before proceeding to the Milazzo dock (I don't know the answer, but it could save you the time and cost of travelling to the Catania airport).
Another, slower, option would be to take the TRAIN (not the bus, which requires a change in Taormina) to Messina, thence either the direct Ustica Lines hydrofoil to Lipari, OR the Giuntabus bus to the Milazzo Dock; thence either a car ferry or a hydrofoil to Lipari. You'll need to walk about 1 kilometer from the train station to the hydrofoil dock in Messina. At Milazzo, by contrast, the Giuntabus drops you across the street from the hydrofoil/car ferry dock.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jane2: Hello. I was hoping someone who maybe has subscribed to this thread could help me with my question, which I just posted to the other thread.
Basically, I want to know if the ferry is REALLY preferable to the hydrofoil for a seasick person!
Answer for Jane2:
If you are apt to getting sea sick, even in serene conditions, the ferry is probably going to be gentler for you.
The SIREMAR car ferry is a large ship (11,000 tons, 403 feet in length, 64 feet in width), and if sea conditions are calm or nearly so, you won't feel any movement whatsoever. None. But if sea conditions are moderate to rough, you'll feel some slow, gentle movement even on the ferry (it will be much worse on the hydrofoil).
Bear in mind that the crossing by ferry takes twice as long as by hydrofoil, and is at night. So you have the option of booking a cabin and lying down. Sometimes, people who suffer from sea sickness prefer a reclining seat, which is also available. A reclining seat on the ferry is half the cost of one on the hydrofoil (and not all seats on the hydrofoil recline).
Many people who suffer from sea sickness take dramamine one hour prior to departure, and are OK. Obviously, every person is a little different.
The car ferry departs from the ferry dock near the Stazione Marittima in Naples. You'll spot the SIREMAR ship moored next to its much larger Tirrenia Lines ferry (to Palermo).
The SNAV Lines hydrofoil departs from Mergellina, across town. I believe that the Ustica Lines hydrofoil also departs from Mergellina, but you should e-mail the company to confirm.
I personally have a very strong preference for the ferry (as I've noted in many postings on this website).
