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Hi,
I'mtravelling to Rome and Florence in mid March, and I'm wondering where to spend most of our time. We have a total of 9 days and we're spending 4 days in Rome and the rest inFlorence and the region around Florence, like Pisa, Lucca and maybe a trip to Cinque Terre. Is Cinque Terre possible as a day trip? Also, within the two cities, what sights do you guys really recommend. I want to experience more of the culture as opposed to doing mostly touristy things..
Any ideas will be appreciated.
Thanks!
 
Posts: 2 | Registered: 13 February 2004Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post

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Less is more.Cinque terre plus all the other places waaaay to much.Florence and Rome is enough.
I wouldn't take any daytrips unless I had two weeks in each city.What are you favorite things
Art/food/wine/culture/music/partying etc.?
 
Posts: 6525 | Location: Culver City, CA, USA | Registered: 08 November 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post

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Daisy, where you are flying into and out of Italy will perhaps give a better idea to those who may want to advise you on how much and where to roam. Are your days in Rome at the beginning or the end? Will you have a car? How many of you are there? If you split your time between Rome and Florence you will be seeing many sights (touristy things, I suppose, as you said), so maybe you might want to save Florence itself for another time? Hard to advise without a bit more detail.
 
Posts: 2054 | Location: Suburban Philadelphia | Registered: 08 July 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post

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I would try our search function to at least see a few previous discussions on the topics. Just hit the find link and type in Roma or Florence.

I think you should decide if you want to do Firenze with a few day trips out, or stay in the countryside and do a few day trips in. I prefer the latter. Firenze can and will amaze you for days if you are into churches, museums, good food and a crowd of people. Toscana will amaze if you love amazing scenery of trees and hills in various shades covered with forrest, olive trees, grapes, fields of wheat or sunflawers and the occasional contented cow or sheep (at least the cow is contented until he finds out what a Fiorentina is made from!). Either way, a week cannot possibly do justice to either the countryside or to Firenze proper so don't worry.


Slow Travel Wine Notes
Restaurant Lists: Toscana * Veneto * Venezia
"Every body has the right to their dreams" --- Stephen Sondheim from Assassins
My Dream: Dino
 
Posts: 4614 | Location: Casa del Fenicottero Rosa, Silver Spring, MD USA | Registered: 06 August 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post

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Sorry to disappoint you, but "sights" will be tourism. There's nothing wrong with that! One of my most successful lines in Italy is "Essere turista è un duro mestiere" -- Being a Tourist is Hard Work.

That said, if I were in your shoes and truly wanted to get a little feel for non-tourist Italy in 9 days, I would rent an apartment in a town or village, of not more than say 6,000 inhabitants, somewhere near Florence but not too near, not one of the more popular tourist places (i.e., not Montepulciano, Montalcino, Pienza, Fiesole, Castellina, etc.), and not a villa in the country, but a small apartment right smack in town, preferably on the ground floor. (Florence is quite immaterial, actually, and any small town anywhere in Italy would do nicely; but I'm allowing you a day off Big Grin to go snap pictures of Florence.)

I'd also prepare for my trip by getting the essentials of the language down; you're running very late for that, mind you: in a month, it can be done, but it's unlikely.

I'd spend a lot of my time shopping. I would shop every morning, not just once at the beginning of my stay; and if in a shop I saw the old ladies all ganging up on some particular thing, I'd buy it too, asking them what they do with it. You'll often start a lively exchange right in the store, how Anna Maria makes it, but Madonna, the best was when Celestina, Sara's grandmother who died a few years ago, used to prepare it for the parish festa. You may wind up cooking it, you may wind up being invited by someone to try it the way it should be prepared -- people are often very proud of our own cooking!

The rest would be mostly window-shopping of course, at grocery stores, clothing stores, hardware stores, stationery shops, etc. I'd watch television. I'd make note of the weekly market days in my town and others near it, coöpting your landlady or the postman's wife or another to let you accompany her on her rounds.

I'd attend Mass on Sundays (many places also have Rosary recitations and devotional services, often around 6pm; if you're a devout Catholic, go). Even if you're not Catholic, though, if you sing, you could prepare a simple Negro spiritual or other piece of religious music, theologicaly neutral of course, showcasing more your country than you (and easier to pull off!!), and on arriving I'd go see the parish priest, and tell him that you're in town not to see sights, but share just a tiny bit in the life of the community, and this is your little gift: I bet that would be a door-opener, churches are always scrambling for talent.

I would ask to visit a grade school; the odds are the school would be delighted, you'd learn tons of stuff, and your visit might be truly memorable.

If you have even a perfunctory interest in history, I'd ask, on arriving, who the local "studioso del paese" is, the guy -- usually a man -- who knows where the tombs and ruins are, and often keeps a scrapbook of photos, plus will be bursting at the seams to show some new person around what he knows and loves. (His fellow villagers you see have heard it all; they're grateful to him for keeping history, but may think he's a bit nuts. You, on the other hand, are a fresh audience.)

You could also, on arriving, or in advance, get in touch (via the Tourist Office, the Italian counterpart of your professional association, or the Rotary Club -- which is profession-based) with someone in town who is in the same line of work as you, and take it from there.

In a small town, a courtesy call on the mayor is not out of line. Firmly resist the temptation, however, to ask the mayor for the slightest favor -- no opening doors for you -- unless just maybe you had a very specific request in some field you're completely informed about, as for example genealogical records of your family. If she volunteers something, take her up on it, gratefully, whether you think you're interested or not: you probably will be (or should be).

At the end of my stay, I'd give any helpful people a farewell dinner in their favorite place -- not yours. I'd also take with me a few hostess gifts from my part of my country, something typical and likely to appeal; for the people in whose homes you wind up having dinner, or who may have squired you around.

Footnote on cameras. The purist would advise no camera at all; you're building memories of a cultural experience, not a record of a tourist visit. More reasonably, I'd take a camera, but not wear it all day (not in church or while shopping, for example, nor in people's houses -- although you might have it in your handbag in the latter case); and absolutely, absolutely, do not point it at people without their explicit permission, or, best, encouragement. A good telephoto lens or one of those 90-degree thingies will let you get away with a distant candid from time to time, but all in all, maybe even better not that.
 
Posts: 4550 | Registered: 06 January 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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That's great advice, Bill - though I think it would take quite a bit of confidence to pull it off, especially with only a week!

We will bear it all in mind to the extent it is feasible during our one week stay in Civitella in the Maremma region. I agree with you things like shopping and markets are great for the interaction they offer with local people and their way of life. They are also good activities to do with children, who find them more accessible that galleries or churches.

Actually what you describe is very similar to what we will be doing in April for two weeks in a village in Northern Spain. The only difference is that I once lived in the village when I was a child and I attended the local school for a year. My parents bought and restored an old mill house on the outskirts of the village. All this was about 25 years ago, but the people still remember us and I have been able to organise an apartment to rent through the mother of a school friend. I am very excited about taking my husband and two children back to the village that has remained a part of me for my whole life, even though I have not lived their since I was 10.

Victoria
 
Posts: 69 | Registered: 04 February 2004Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post

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Victoria, you are going to have a wonderful trip! to fuel the next 25 years and beyond. Every time I run off to Europe, I tell myself that I really should go somewhere else than Italy; with my interest in Roman roads and early Romanesque churches, plus my taste in landscapes, my two top candidates in order are... northern Spain (roughly, a swath from about Zaragoza to Santiago de Compostela, and probably no farther S than Valladolid); and southwestern England and Wales.

Too much thread creep for here, I think, but if inclined, do please drop me one of those awful private messages, or better yet an e-mail; I'm interested in your advice on the area, etc. (I checked the SlowTrav Trip Calendar but didn't see your trip there.)
 
Posts: 4550 | Registered: 06 January 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
ira
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Hi Daisy,

There's nothing wrong with doing the "touristy" things in Rome and Florence. You are, after all, a tourist.

In Florence, I suggest that you take the no.7 bus from the train station to Fiesole. See the Etruscan ruins, wander the town, have a glass of wine on the terrace of the Bar Blu and watch the sun set over the city.

You can make reservations for Uffizi and Accademia musems by calling Florence 011 (U.S. international access code) 39 (Italy's country code) then 055-294-883 8:30-18:30 M-F and 8:30-12:00 Sat. Florence time. You will get an English speaking operator and in 2-3 minutes YOU CAN RESERVE FOR BOTH. This is through the reservation service at the Uffizi and costs beyond the normal entry fee only about 1.60 euro for the service. This is MUCH cheaper than the commercial booking services.

I recommend dinner at Il Ritrovo Via de’ Pucci 4/A Best food for the price Has fish. Full dinner w/wine abt 40E pp
From Pzza San Giovani (NW corner of the Pza del Duomo) walk one blk East to Via dei Martelli. Go left to Via dei Pucci. Turn Right. Look very carefully on left. No sign. Door could be locked. Ring bell.

Have fun.
 
Posts: 406 | Location: Madison, GA, USA | Registered: 31 October 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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