My wife and I will be visiting a good friend on Lake Orta at the beginning of September, and will have about 2 days (the day we arrive and one full day following) to spend in/near the Langhe. I know, this is not nearly enough time (!), but it was all we could do right now, and I figured better that than nothing at all. I'm looking at it as a little taste, an introduction -- enough to convince us we need to return for much longer!
I'm not worried about our time around Orta, since my pal Lalo will take good care of us, but I'm trying to come up with some ideas for that first 2 days (really, a day and 1/2). We're staying at a B&B near Nizza Monferrato. From experience, I know not to plan anything more for the first day than simply getting there (we're flying into Malpensa on Sept. 2). Depending upon how we feel, a nice lunch and a bit of easy exploration of Nizza or another town (Acqui Terme?) will do it. For the one full day we'll have, I'd thought of trying to take a nice drive over towards Barbaresco/Alba/Barolo -- lunch someplace, perhaps a winery visit (Renato Ratti?).
I've been combing the forums for ideas, but am starting to feel overwhelmed! The whole area sounds beautiful, and packed with great experiences. I'd like to narrow it down to something manageable with the time we have, and simply consider it an "appetizer" for a return visit another time. I'd really appreciate suggestions for this one day to help me keep it doable and enjoyable -- particularly, some ideas for lunch (maybe dinner, although I'm thinking dinner closer to home, either in Acqui Terme or Nizza Monferrato (?), might be a better idea). We're both vegetarians, but I'll occasionally eat meat-filled or sauced pastas, or fish (just can't really do a full-blown meat secondo).
Rob, you might want to consider actually staying in the Langhe. You are going to be spending lots of your precious time commuting to the Langhe.
When you get to the Langhe you should definitely visit La Morra, Barolo, Grinzane Cavour. In La Morra there is a fantastic restaurant called the Belvedere which overlooks the rolling hills and is famous for it delicious fare. The town of Barolo is charming and and there are lots of wineries in and around. The Castello houses an important enoteca but has been under renovation recently so check before you go. In Grinzane Cavour you can visit their stunning Castello which houses the regional enoteca, a museum of wine making, as well as a fine restaurant. Alba is a great "larger town" where you can spend an hour or two strolling the town center.
No matter which towns you visit, you will have a great time. Cheers.
Since you are staying in Nizza Monferrato, you are well positioned to do the following day trip:
On the first half day, take a nice stroll through Nizza. It is a beautiful little city that you have to really explore to see its qualities. Here is my article about the town. From there, if you have energy, mosey over to Acqui Terme (about 15 kilometers) walk around and have a light dinner in town, maybe at Angolo di Vino or Il Ciarloco. You will not be disappointed with the town. Acqui is beautiful. Here is my article about Acqui Terme.
The next morning:
Drive from Nizza in the direction of CANELLI. Make a reservation to do a tour and tasting at CONTRATTO, which is not just a fantastic winery but also a UNESCO Heritage site, since it is one of the four wineries with Wine Cathedrals, built into the tufo cliffs. You have to pay for a tour here, but a couple of the people there speak English, and the tour is worth it. THen leave Canelli and drive the direction of SAN STEFANO BELBO. This is a nice town to walk around a bit.
Back in the car, over the hills, past the San Maurizio Resort to BARBARESCO. Here you can visit I Produttori di Barbaresco try some wines, and visit the enoteca regionale in the deconsectrated church. Lunch at Antiche Torre.
Leave Barbaresco, and head to GRINZANE CAVOUR, and drive past the town to the castle. The views are amazing and as Giuanan mentions, a regional enoteca, you can continue on if you like down the same road to DIANO D'ALBA. Here is my blog post about Diano d'Alba It is an absolutely beautiful village, with a spectacular church (St. John the Baptist) and also....another...great regional enoteca, here you can drink as much as you want for free
By now it should be late afternoon,and if you still have energy, head to Alba for a stroll and some shopping.... or you can go to the Village of Barolo if you want to. Please know that there are 11 Barolo villages which are licensed to produce under the Barolo label, and both Grinzane Cavour and Diano d'Alba are Barolo producers. So even if you don't get to Barolo itself, you will have visited Barolo in a sense.
This plan keeps you on the eastern side of the Langhe so you don't spend alot (waste a lot) of time roaming around trying to find places. It is a pretty condensed area, the Langhe, but still, it is a network of roads that takes time to figure out. With this plan, we are keeping you within about 45 minutes of Nizza so you are spending minimal time driving around but maximizing what you are able to see.
Back in the car, this time taking the Autostrada 33/SS456 back to Nizza. It will only take you a half hour.
Then have your B&B (they should do this earlier) make a dinner reservation for you at IL BARDON, which is in Calamandrana, on the back road to Canelli(the most unbelievable cheese assortment -- as a main course) , or at La Sosta, in Montabone. Both are fantastic, but both require getting in the car and driving again. If you are dead tired, then you can just head over to Due Lanterne in Nizza itself, a perfectly fine, simple restaurant. Always ask if they can make you a main course of "contorni" or side dishes, you can get a plate of veggies that way for your main course.
This plan would give you a feel of the Langhe and the Monferrato both and you will come way undoubtedly wanting more. YOu will be blown away at the beauty of the ride from Nizza to Barbaresco and then from Barbaresco to Diano d'Alba. Since you are staying literally on the border of two really gorgeous wine regions, it is ALL GOOD!
Hard to top Diana's detailed tour plan for you, I would suggest more or less the same for your Piedmont antipasti tour, with a few additional comments:
Nizza on your first day, if its not Monday or Tuesday have lunch at La Signora in Rossa, located with the enoteca (Diana describes it in her article on Nizza). Acqui Terme is a nice drive, although I would hesitate to reccomend someone to have dinner there and then drive back to Nizza after some good bottles of vino. Stick to Dinner around Nizza, I would suggest La Rotonda over Due Lanterne, I have eaten at both and the latter is superior IMO.
I think that the visit to the "underground cathedral" of wine in Canelli is an excellent idea although I myself would choose Coppo over Contratto as we have had guests disapointed in the latter. With Coppo you don't really need an apointment, but you should be there at 11 am sharp.
And up to Barbaresco via Santo Stephano, I would suggest going via Camo and Mango, the drive up the Belbo escarpement through the terraced vineyards is spectacular. For lunch I would favour Rabaja over Antiche Torre, both are excellent though, go to the former if you don't want a big dinner or the latter for a lighter lunch.
Personally I think trying to get a visit to Barolo area in this one day is pushing the limits of Slow Travelling, but it all depends how enthusiastic you are and how you feel after your lunch and wine tastings! Grinzane Cavour is the easiest and nearest of the Barolo communes and as Diana says you can take the back road from Barberesco via Tre Stelle, Treiso and Alba. Or you could just stop and browse Alba. Or you could head back to Nizza from Barbaresco via Neive (stop at the old town) and Calosso, take the back road over to Nizza via San Marzano, spectacular wine country.
Bardon is a great reccomendation for dinner on your second night, or if you are too tired and full, there is a great pizza place, Rinomata, in Nizza with a big salad bar and a good wine selection.
All good alternatives. Tim is right about the first evening and driving back from Acqui after dinner, better to stick close to home. Tim, do you know the name of the little restaurant across the street from La Signora? We ate there a few years ago and found it good.
Funny about Rimonata. Yes, it is indeed a good place if you are totally exhausted. In fact, we ate there alot when we were still living abroad but coming in to check the renovations. There is now a second Rimonata in Acqui, has been for a few years, but somehow, I like the one in Nizza better. The pizza at both is excellent, and the portion sizes generous.
While Mango seems ok, I am not crazy about it, but the views are spectacular. I think it might take up too much time to hit it.
You know I am a Coppo fan, so either would be fine. I was surprised to have guests charged at Coppo as well for a tasting. I guess it depends... some like Contratto more, some Coppo. The guys at Coppo are definitely friendly.
I would think making time for Nieve is better than stopping in Mango on the way up.
Ok, now we have given the original poster probably too much information and he is completely confused.
However, Tim and I both make the same general point. You do not have to choose the Langhe over the Monferrato or visa versa. You are sitting on the cusp of both in Nizza, and both have a myriad of offerings. We have not even started on Asti, or the Roero, or the Gavi area, or Alessandria, or the Tortona hills. On this trip you will get just your first antipasti of the area, as Tim puts it. Limit yourself, and enjoy your first bites!!
I will defer to the two true experts (Tim and Diana) on this one, but I will add one thing. Don't be shy about getting lost for a bit on the myriad of tiny, meandering, hill-hugging/vine-hugging beautiful secondary roads that criss-cross the ridges and valleys. These are themselves some of the glory, for me, of these areas. That is, yes, hit the wineries mentioned, the Barbaresco enoteca, lunch spots, dinners spots, et al., but get a map and then get lost trying to figure it out. You'll be lost in hillsides of wine; you'll see all the hazelnuts at the higher elevations; you'll maybe even have to ask for directions from some guy on a tractor!
I promise you this: As Giuanin suggests, you'll consider coming back for more once you get a taste of these antipasti!
Enjoy.
Posts: 627 | Location: Logan, Utah, USA | Registered: 02 June 2006
We spent 5 days in Acqui Terme last spring and loved it. You can't go wrong with the advice from our regular Piemonte posters. They love this area and know the places off the beaten bath that you'd enjoy!
The town of Mombaruzzo is 'on the way' to Acqui Terme from where you're staying. This neat town, perched high on a hill overlooking hectares of vineyards, is famous for making the most brilliant soft amaretti cookies. Of course we had to buy some. These were unlike any amaretti cookies we had ever tasted before! The bakeries there have been using the same recipes for more than a 100 years - when you've perfected it . . . why change?
The tiny town of Fontanile (located on the other side of the valley, SW of Mombaruzzo) has a lovely church - astounding when you consider that the town is so tiny . . .
We had one of the best meals of our entire trip at i Caffi in Acqui Terme.
We rung the bell outside a lovely medieval building that looked more like a well-to-do house than a restaurant. Someone came down and we were admitted into the restaurant where we were treated like family. The dining room was beautiful - contrasting the ancient wooden vaulted ceiling with modern light fixtures and table settings.
We enjoyed a tasting menu of traditional Piedmontese dishes. This menu was accompanied with wines, although it wasn't like normal wine pairings where you received a glass. Here the bottle was brought to your table and you drank your fill.
This was a three hour meal and one of the most incredible dining experiences of my life (and those who know me know I am a food snob so I do NOT say those words lightly!). The food was sophisticated and beautifully presented. The tasting menu with wine (6 courses) was € 65 a person. Some might find that expensive but the same meal back home would easily be more than $ 200 a person! If you contacted them in advance they might be able to accommodate vegetarians.
I believe that they also have a second dining room that is open for lunch.
We enjoyed our visit to Barolo - particularly the wine tasting area underneath the castle. You will likley pass the museum of corkscrews as you are almost at the wine tasting spot - it is a fun museum to pop into.
A caution - this is a hilly, mountainous area. The distances might seem close on the map but it always seemed to take far more time than we were expecting to get from one spot to another. Mind you, the fact that we kept stopping to take pictures and explore might have had something to do with this . . .
You will find that 2 days is NOT nearly enough time. I know that this might set off some debate but we discovered that we preferred this area of Italy to the far more 'famous' Tuscany.
Hmmmm - I think I need to plan a return trip . . .
Jerry
The traveler sees what he sees. The tourist sees what he has come to see. ~G.K. Chesterton
Thanks to all for these fabulous suggestions! This is exactly what I needed: the opinions of those who really know the area. Diana, your itinerary was more than I could've hoped for, and that, along with Tim's (and others') comments, provides an excellent template for us.
Our B&B outside Fontanile is already booked, so no changing that -- but I'm content with the decision, and I can see from everything here that we'll have no problem truly enjoying what we can comfortably reach from there. We're fairly seasoned travelers in Italy (although sadly it has been a few years), so I'm familiar with distances vs. driving times, and I have my green & yellow Touring Club of Italy map in hand!
I know that 2 days is pathetically brief, and we're not ones to attempt pushing the boundaries of slow travel very much. We enjoy absorbing all the smaller pleasures, not checking towns and sights off a list. The main part of our trip will be the time spent with my friend near Orta, where we'll at least have a few more days (and a personal guide showing us around -- although you all are as close to personal guides as one could hope to find in cyberspace!).
Now it's time for me to dig into all of these suggestions and digest all the information! I hope I can figure out any possible questions before the thread grows too cold...
I'm sort of joking. I love those maps. I memorize those maps. But they do not have many of the roads in the area. Just be forwarned. Not that it matters.
More important (because I consider being "lost" irrelevant in that area), on the issue if vegetarianism: you will have no problems finding lots of great food to eat, especially as early September still is the heart of the local vegetable season. Yep, they eat lots of carne, but there are many veggie options right on the menu. My wife is vegetarian and we had no problems.
Posts: 627 | Location: Logan, Utah, USA | Registered: 02 June 2006
Pedalaforte, Interesting (and good to know) about the TCI maps. I've always gotten them because they seem to be the best/most detailed maps I can actually purchase here in the U.S. Are there any other better/more local maps you might suggest (maybe something I can pick up once we're there)?
Neither of us are vegans, so that makes things a bit easier for food. My one concern (not having been to Piemonte) was getting into a situation where there's no menu, and they just start bringing you dishes...I have too much respect for great food and local traditions, and wouldn't want to snub a great cook. I have a fairly moderate/decent command of Italian, so I'm hoping we'll be OK in this regard.
You've all gotten me very pumped up about this trip (as if I wasn't before) -- can't wait!
Fontanile is halfway between Nizza and Acqui T. so you can go to either on your first day. But you want to change your dinner locations as those hills can get quite win(e)dy in the evenings I am sure that there must be some restaurants in Fontanile or nearby Castelletto Molina waiting to be discovered (Diana, you are closer?)
Funny we looked at a B&B near there when we first came next to a stream with an old mill, I wonder if that's where you are staying.
Our B&B is called La Granica; walking distance into Fontanile, apparently. I've dealt with the win(e)dy roads in Chianti and some other areas, so I appreciate the thought! The drive from Nizza or even Calamandrana doesn't look so bad, although I know that what appears on a map can be very deceiving.
Question about Grinzane Cavour (Diana, Tim, others): when heading there from Barbaresco, would you take the Autostrada past/around Alba (Diana, seems like you were maybe suggesting this, and save Alba for later if we have the energy)?
Any particular thoughts/suggestions/warnings about parking (or is it similar to Toscana and Umbria -- parcheggi scattered outside Centro Storico, etc.)?
Tim, do you know the name of the little restaurant across the street from La Signora? We ate there a few years ago and found it good.
Funny about Rimonata. Yes, it is indeed a good place if you are totally exhausted. In fact, we ate there alot when we were still living abroad but coming in to check the renovations. There is now a second Rimonata in Acqui, has been for a few years, but somehow, I like the one in Nizza better. The pizza at both is excellent, and the portion sizes generous.
While Mango seems ok, I am not crazy about it, but the views are spectacular. I think it might take up too much time to hit it.
You know I am a Coppo fan, so either would be fine. I was surprised to have guests charged at Coppo as well for a tasting. I guess it depends... some like Contratto more, some Coppo. The guys at Coppo are definitely friendly.
Hi Diana, no don't know the name of the restaurant you asked about, I don't get down to Nizza too often except for the occasional festival or to see my accountant there.
Funny too about Rinomata opening in Acqui too, I thought they were a great place for pizza and more especially with the hard-to-find-in Piedmont salad bar and the parking lot which I use when there is market or festival.
I love the drive up to Mango through Camo,and then on to Nieve, its one of the best routes in Piedmont, Mango is not much, but the Moscato Enoteca in the castle is very good,not just for Moscato either, I found my best Barolo ever there. And the restaurant used to be very good (when its open).
We always used to send guests to Contratto, but then we sent a big group who got charged a lot (15 euro each)for a very small tour and little wine, so we switched to Gancia who were great and then this year they stopped taking groups smaller then 10 people, so we now use Coppo (actually after your reccomendation), so far so good, must go and visit Paulo, Piero, Gianni and Roberto some day, only talk to them on the phone.I think they only charge 5 euro
Ciao for now, did the storm this morning get as far south as you?
Then have your B&B (they should do this earlier) make a dinner reservation for you at IL BARDON, which is in Calamandrana, on the back road to Canelli(the most unbelievable cheese assortment -- as a main course) , or at La Sosta, in Montabone.
I guess some of these decisions might be made for us (depending upon open/close days for each restaurant)? Our days in the area are Wednesday (day we arrive) and Thursday.
Fontanile is not Nizza It's about half way between Acqui Terme and Nizza. (whoops Tim said that already note to self: read thread before commenting) La Granica is a nica place, you will enjoy it!
Yep, you just get on the main road that comes off of the A33 and go past alba, and there is a traffic circle which will bring you into Grinzane Cavour.
No big parking problems in any of these places, maybe in Acqui or Alba you just have to be careful of the pay zones, which are marked in blue.
Sorry - didn't mean to confuse anyone with my overly general description and suggest we were staying in Nizza M. itself! I just picked Nizza as the closest bigger town by way of description.
I bow down to all the fantastic local knowledge all of you are sharing!
I think the closest restaurant might be in Castel Rocchero, about 5 km from Fontanile, called Antiche Osteria, part of the Maragliana group. I have had great meals there, and also some average ones.
Tim, we just heard the other day that Al Cambio in Castelleto Molino, the small hotel which has been closed forever, has been purchased by the Berta group. They plan to re-open in September, we heard.
Which reminds me, Rob, if you like grappa, you will be very close to Berta, which is in Casalotto, which is kind of in between Mombaruzzo and Fontanile. Berta is one of the big, famous Italian producers and the tour is very nice. Also, do not miss Mombaruzzo, the home of the soft Amaretti cookie, as Jerry mentioned above. Your hosts will be able to give you advice on that.
THere is also a really simple restaurant in Alice bel Colle (it is part of the hotel up there, can't remember the name), but the food was simple and good and Alice is worth visiting for its incredible views of the entire Monferrato.
And yeah, I Caffi is all that. But even if you somehow manage to hit Acqui Terme at lunch time, have lunch at I Caffi booked because lunch there is fabulous.
Are you getting the feeling there is way too much to see, Rob?
Are you getting the feeling there is way too much to see, Rob?
Yes! But I knew this would be the case, and has me already plotting a way to return...
quote:
Which reminds me, Rob, if you like grappa, you will be very close to Berta, which is in Casalotto, which is kind of in between Mombaruzzo and Fontanile.
I LOVE grappa!! Thanks for this great tip, as well as for the additional restaurant suggestions in the area
Our hosts are supposedly excellent cooks, as well, and offer a multi-course dinner for a very reasonable price, so that could be an alternative at the end of the longer day on Thursday. Also, I think we'll probably be driving right through Mombaruzzo on our way to La Granica from Malpensa, so I can forsee some amaretti cookies for a lunch appetizer
La Granica is the place we looked at when we first came, but turned it down for various reasons. My Asti restaurant book lists a few restaurants in Fontanile and C. Molino, and if you are used to these roads its not to bad if you want to go to I Caffi or Bardon for dinner, just stick to the main road and not the back roads (I know a great scenic route from Fontanile to Castel Boglietto (past Michelotti winery which I am sure Diana knows too - actually we looked at that property and turned it down too!) and then over via Rochetta Palafeo to Calamandra and Canelli, but don't try it at night!
From Barbaresco to Grinzane its quicker to go down to the SS231/A33 and straight through by-passing Alba, but if you didn't go up by Mango and want a more scenic option go via Treiso and around Alba. When you come back get off the SS231 at Neive/Castagnito exit and head back to Nizza via Neive, Santo Stephano and Canelli.
We arrive on Wednesday, Sept. 2, and will spend that night and the next at La Granica (I'm already looking at Diana's beautiful B&B for our next trip!). On Friday the 4th we head up north to connect with my friend who lives on Lake Orta (I'm dropping our rental car in Stresa, which is an easy hop for him to pick us up). He'll be our guide for a long weekend in that general area.
I've been looking at whatever photos I can find of the area online, and absolutely cannot wait!
Might be a bit late after the other posts, but as you mentioned Renato Ratti, I'll add that the tour is very good (you'll need to make an appointment) and it's an interesting yet 'sapce age' cantina. They're certainly proud of what they have. Sadly the wines we tasted disappointed (I was surprised that the single vineyard Barolos weren't offered for tasting - especially as there were open bottles in the corner of the room ). No matter, the experience was good and they generously offer some very nice prints (for free) if that appeals.
Pesronally in such a short time, and having just landed, I'd be looking to spend the time near the base in Nizza Monferrato, possibly taking in the Bersano winery on Piazza Dante. Not a normal 1st choice, but if walkable, this might make a nice easy option.
regards
Ian
Drink coffee, do stupid things faster
Posts: 306 | Location: UK | Registered: 20 September 2008
if you like grappa, you will be very close to Berta, which is in Casalotto, which is kind of in between Mombaruzzo and Fontanile. Berta is one of the big, famous Italian producers and the tour is very nice
This was a really fun tour and, hopefully, they will take you down to their cellar as it's huge and has beautiful lighting. They offered numerous tastings, which was great.
We also had lunch at ICaffi in Acqui Terme while in the Piemonte and not only was it terrific food, but the owner is really fun.
Sharon J
Posts: 1141 | Location: Houston, TX USA | Registered: 01 November 2003
2) Diana and Sharon J: would I need to reserve to see the Berta distillery?
We just stopped by but we were told that they don't always take you down to the cellars. We asked and the girl drove us down. We were the only ones there and it is a huge place. Make sure you ask to be taken down.
Sharon J
Posts: 1141 | Location: Houston, TX USA | Registered: 01 November 2003
I would say take your hosts up on the dinner idea. It is the perfect way to end the day, you can open some wine and not even think about getting in the car again.
I would reserve at Berta, like that you will know for sure they have time.
For some more variety of pictures from Piemonte, here is a link to my photos taken on my August 2007 trip, with some photo's of Tim's wonderful B&B, Villa Sampaguita. I'll be staying there again next month when I return for Asti Palio and all the other festivites for the week leading up to the Palio.
Yes, I was there for about 8 days and did cover a lot of ground while I was there. I wanted to see and experience as much as I could of the Langhe/Monferrato area in the time that I had.
The highlight of that August 2007 trip though was the Notte delle Masche (Night of the Witches) festival in Sinio. What a great quirky and fun festa that is! It's held on August 14th every year, so if anyone is in the Langhe area this week, I highly recommend heading to Sinio this Friday night for the annual Notte delle Masche festival.
Tery
Posts: 250 | Location: Mission Viejo, CA, USA | Registered: 18 May 2003
.
I am sure that there must be some restaurants in Fontanile or nearby Castelletto Molina waiting to be discovered (Diana, you are closer?) 
). No matter, the experience was good and they generously offer some very nice prints (for free) if that appeals.
Couldn't make that work this time -- but next time, yes!
