Hello Everobody, Already mentioned on this site that I and my wife are going to drive around Tuscany and Umbria in October. The planned itinerary is: Florence-Montecatini Terme (2 days with a daytrip to Pistoia)-Lucca (1 day)-a vinyard near San Gimignano (3 days with day trips to Volterra and ?)-Siena (3 days with daytrips to Chianti region and Montepulciano-Pienza). Then one week in Umbria in a rental house on an organic farm between Bevagna and Montefalco with daytrips to Gubbio, Perugia, Orvieto-Todi and Assissi. We plan to drive from Siena to our Umbria rental via Cortona. I don't think we will be rushing between our stops so I would prefer to drive the most beautiful rather than fastest routes. We have Atlante Stradale with scenic routes marked but because I value more your personal experience, I would appreciate any suggestions as to what roads to take. Best, Andrzej
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Kim,
Posts: 35 | Location: Washington D.C. | Registered: 11 July 2002
Andrzej, there's always a pivotal decision; and in your case, it's to go via Cortona. Once you've decided that, your route is dominated by the highway from Siena to Perugia, with only a slightly alternate route via Asciano and Sinalunga, unless you really decide on tortuous.
The other route from Siena to Bevagna avoids, in a natural sort of way, those highways, and seems to me much more pleasant: Asciano, S. Giovanni d'Asso, Pienza, Montepulciano, Chiusi, Piegaro (rather than the red road to Monteleone d'Orvieto: it's a most unattractive heavily trafficked road), Montegabbione, Marsciano, Gualdo Cattaneo, Bevagna. Â Â Â This way you'll be going thru small beauty spots in Tuscany; then from Moiano (just E of Chiusi) to Marsciano is almost all pine trees; after crossing the highway just E of Marsciano, you'll be on very quiet 2-laners thru the Colli Martani, olive groves and more pines towards the end.â
Andrzej, You can't get better advice than Bill's. You'll understand if you go look at his web site. Click on "Gazetteer of Italy" at the bottom of his post. Enjoy!
Here's another idea, perhaps you could check your route against scenic drives in a Thomas Cook publication called Signpost Guides, Tuscany and Umbria, Your Guide to Great Drives. We have taken most of these routes and daytrips and we are certain you will enjoy them too.
Posts: 142 | Location: Seattle, Washington | Registered: 29 June 2001
Don't take the back road from Cortona over the mountains to Umbertide. This is a long drive (over an hour) through only trees and such a winding road that I felt car sick. I would just boot it over to Cortona on the Siena-Bettole highway, spend a nice day in Cortona and then go to Bevagna on the main highway. From that main highway, you see Lake Trasimeno (always best when seen from a distance), Perugia, Assisi, Spello.
Are you staying at Le Case Gialle? We have a few good reviews of this place and I think it sounds good. Send us your review of where ever you are staying.
quote:Lake Trasimeno (always best when seen from a distance)
Pauline, that's funny! And in my limited experience, true, too -- but "limited" means I don't know the SE quadrant of the lake, which, wouldn't you know it, is said to be the handsome one.
Despite Deborah's kind appreciation of Boobykins, for Tuscany at least, there is better advice than mine, and it hasn't weighed in yet. Bill & Patty Sutherland, for example. Stick around Andrzej until you get thoroughly confused by all the conflicting advice, then do what you want!
I've been all the way around Lago Trasimeno many times. When I want to show it to someone, I drive to Mercatale and follow the signs to Tuoro. On the mountaintop there's a trattoria/bar where you can park and look. I then announce that this is the best way to see the lake and as close as I am going.
Posts: 2707 | Location: Umbria | Registered: 13 September 2001
Thank you very much everybody. I'll have to sort out your advice concerning a route from Siena to La Casa Gialle (yes, Pauline, we will be staying there; I'll send you trip report when we are back). Any suggestions as to other parts of our itinerary - Lucca-San Gimignano? Siena-Montalcino(Montepulciano)?, daytrips in Umbria:Bevagna-Orvieto?, Bevagna-Gubio? Andrzej
Posts: 35 | Location: Washington D.C. | Registered: 11 July 2002
And here I thought Pauline was the only one who didn't like Lake Tresemino! Now we found out Judith feels the same way! What is the problem with it? It DOES look pretty from a distance...are you saying that's ALL it's good for? I know it's too shallow for any serious water activities. What am I missing?
Posts: 4675 | Location: Umbria | Registered: 29 June 2001
My own experience of Passignano has colored things a bit for me; Castiglione del Lago, too, is a tourist trap, although with more to offer. About 1/2 the lake is surrounded by very heavy-traffic highways. The edges of the lake can get kinda swampy; logical enough, since the lake has been swampifying for thousands of years and I hope will disappear altogether in maybe another 1000 or so. Anyway, I wouldn't want to swim in it.
Lucca to San Gimignano: You could drive down to Volterra, visit the town, then follow the main road to San Gimignano. I do not know the first part of this drive, but the last part is not that exciting - but it would be fun to see Volterra. Otherwise, take the Autostrada to the northern Chianti region and wander down through San Casciano, Montespertoli, Certaldo to San Gimignano. The red road from the autostrada to Certaldo was very busy and not so pretty from what I remember of our drive a few years ago.
Day trips from Bevagna: Go to Montefalco to see the frescoes. We have reviews of a good restaurant there. Go to Spello to see the Pinturichio and explore the town. Assisi, of course. Go visit Panicale - just a cute town on a hill south of Lake Trasimeno. Visit Aldo Gallo at the caffe in town: http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/food/caffes_gallos_bar.htm Go to the tour office and get them to show you the Perugino in the church. Perugia for the day. Spoleto for the day.
Forget Gubbio - too far, not such a pretty drive. See it next time when you stay in northern Umbria.
I would leave Orvieto for another trip too - stay in southern Tuscany. It will be a long drive.
The "natural unit", so to speak, centered on Bevagna is:    Bevagna    Montefalco    Trevi    Foligno especially if you like antiquities (good Museum)    Spello
Further afield:    Assisi    Spoleto    Pieve S. Gregorio
At 1 day per place, that's 8 days. In fact, Pieve S. Gregorio is a stop of about half an hour, combined with S. Brizio and half a day in Spoleto. Spoleto is worth about 1-1/2 days on this kind of itin: so it still averages out.
Since Bevagna has been our "stomping ground" for a week twice per year I have a couple of recommendations: Go to Taverna del Pescatore for lunch on a sunny day and sit under the big tent. I think I have a report of sorts on this website. Visit the Arnaldo Caprai winery near Montefalco to buy their terrific Sagrantino. I'm certain that you will purchase some of le Case Gialle olio olivo. It won an all-Umbrian organic olive oil competition this year.
Posts: 465 | Location: hilton head island, SC | Registered: 16 July 2001
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