Not a question, nor an answer this time.

I am transcribing letters written to my parents in 1974 when I was living in Perugia. This is what I wrote after a visit to Cortona:

"We went to Cortona today.
It is a lovely, untouched little town about 40 miles away and a really undiscovered gem. We walked and walked and walked enjoying all the mediaeval atmosphere and glorious panoramas that this town has to offer.
There was a street market in the town and the place was crowded with shoppers. Very few tourists as this place is way, way off the beaten track."

How things change!!!!!!

PS It's still lovely though!

Indeed how things have changed. Contemporary Cortona is more museo than living urban environment. Few young people. Few families. More theme park than town space. Shops everywhere tearing at the frontage of the medieval streets and piazzas. The recent short run of the Tuscan Sun festival exposed the fragility of relying on a single brand, on a single market and assuming that internationalising the Tuscan experience (whatever that means) would work. Apparently it has a twin festival in California - sharing experiences presumably. Lack of sponsors, lack of American tourists and lack of local interest all played a hand. Even the presence of Robert Redford and his wife (an artist apparently) didn't produce a magnetic tourist effect. Next year the organisers will introduce 'pop music' to the festival to broaden its appeal and keep the tills ringing. It is the stuff of soap opera. I am sure that some will disagree with these sentiments but the gradual extension of the steak festival from one to three days over the past few years is emblematic of how central merchandising and catering (literally) have become. Visit Sansepulcro or even tiny Montone for a peak at a less adulterated daily urban mix.

I was going to start a separate thread but since I saw the post specifically on Cortona, I thought I would just chime in with my question (and because it does have to do with how touristy Cortona has become).

I plan on taking language lessons next summer and wanted to do it in a smallish town in Tuscany that will give me the opportunity to interact with Italians and improve my Italian. Centro Koine language school has a program in Cortona and since people have given this school a good review. I thought Cortona would be a good place to go. I have been to Cortona before and really liked it but am wondering if the residents of Tuscany (and in particular those who live in Cortona) feel that because of the high volume of tourism to Cortona that it would not be conducive to learning the language, especially since I am going during the summer months.

Uh, that is funny.

I haven't never thought it this way.

quote:

Cortona is more museo than living urban environment

I so strongly disagree with this statement taken from -allow me J- a tourist point of view.
Stroll around Cortona after dark and during Sat or Sun nights and tell me what do you see. Italians, people from Cortona area and comune, strolling for a gelato or just a walk in Cortona, as it is always been.
I live here since I was 11, so 1976, and we already had all the people brought over by the University of Georgia, J Cortona has not born with Under the tuscan sun, I have at home an entire issue of the new york sunday times dated 1982 and it is entirely on Cortona.

The Tuscan Sun festival -that for instance has been superb- has payed his share -as all of us- for the lack of money and the economical crisis world wide, again, I know that some people that here USA is the only market, but believe me, it is not.
Robert Rdford has been just one of many that have come here to visit and enjoy the town, Clooney, Hanks, Steve Martin, Michael J Fox, Malcom McDowell, Bobby McFerrin, Michail Barishnikov and many, many others, and they were not invited as a banner to publicize the town, but most of them came because they appreciated it.

This has been a strange year, is not like there is no people, there is, but a little less than last year,the point is that they don't buy... and I understand the reason.

Before you say something about keeping the real feeling of a medieval town, I might just remember you that Cortona is a modern town, living in this century, and keeping it the way it was would mean making of it a Museum town, like Pienza or San Gimignano, where after the last bus has gone home, the town is deserted.
Or like Tuscanyland in Disneyworld, as I like to call it.
I believe that keep the feeling of a medieval town, so no new enterprises, no new restaurants, no new shops etc, and keeping up only the "traditional"-wathever they are- enterprises would be forcing a nature that change, the world evolves, so why not us. We keep high our traditions of good foods and wine, of hospitality and art but keep moving on, in a modern world. We have no McDonalds, and you can't find Alfredo suce in the restaurants...

The Tuscan sun festival had great incredible reviews, not only from me, but from the specialized magazines and people that , more than me, know about the music topic.

quote:

Lack of sponsors, lack of American tourists and lack of local interest all played a hand

I would wait before paying for Cortona's funeral, let's wait for a couple of years before saying that, and again, if all you could get out of your Cortona's experience was this, then either you run a prejiudiced walk through it, or just Cortona didn't work for you.

We talked about it many times, we are not all the same.We don't like the same things, and we shouldn't. What works for you will not work for me.

I like to go in places that have history, but are still in this century, where you can walk through museums but also sit at a lounge bar and enjoy good wine with friends, if Montone works for you, go for it, I couldn't stay there for more than a couple of hours, I go to San Sepolcro only to buy some things I sell at the store, and other than the tiny centre it never "talked to me".
But Again, one of my best friend's ideal vacation is 3 weeks secluded in a convent...

quote:

. Shops everywhere tearing at the frontage of the medieval streets and piazzas

The shops in Cortona are here since decades, mine is open since 45 years, and it's mine since 19, it was my husband's before.

Tonino's restaurant is open since the end of the 18 hundreds, The SIgnorelli Bar is open since the 60ies, The Molesini grocery store is open since the early 19 hundreds as both of the Shoe stores, and most of the bar here are also.
And so most of the others, yes, some of us have changed type of sales -I was an antique dealer- but what people expect us to do? Keep struggling no matter what and stubbornly keep up with a bad businees just because it is traditional, or change accordingly with the times, a great attention to quality and service, but still, changing.

What is "real" what is "fake"...

I'll go get a glass of wine.

Hi Blueseaandsails

I think you will really enjoy the experience of spending time & learning a language in Cortona. It probably does get more tourists these days than it used to, but during the two trips we made there we never found it over run. Just a couple of days ago I woke up and realized I had been dreaming I was in Cortona again. It happens to my husband & I both periodically. I suspect that you will find that like most well known Tuscan hill towns, once you get to passegiata time it is mostly locals. Go for it- I don't think you will regret it!

I have never spent the night in Cortona - only a few day trips over the past several years. Unless things have drastically changed recently I think it is a delightful place; hardly undiscovered these days, but still authentic in a modern Italian way. I would not hesitate to recommend it to anyone.