Its snowing! Not that light fluffy stuff that looks so pretty in the famous picture from Carnevale (of 2 dottori walking across a virgin white San Marco, their backs to the camera) but this is sticky wet heavy stuff. I even gave in and bought a pair of gloves for way too much money but they are deerskin and ohhhh so warm. Kim... I understand they are imported from NJ!


We ahve had rain, fog, cold, wind but are loving our stay so far. We ahve enjoyed Carnevale but not let it dominate our visit.

Last night we had so so food listening to great Jazz at Paradiso Perduto in Cannareggio.

We made it back to Alla Franca. We remembered it for good cicchetti and great spritz. Well not the sons and a cousin have turned it into a ristorante. It was superb. Kay had marvelous clams and mussels, I had 4 seafood antipasti. We split a huge plate of pasta with seafood and then each had a whole fish. With a mezzo of white (still horrible but it grows on you as the buzz does) and 2 arancelli is was €91. Our best meal so far on the trip.

We ahve given up on any more outdoor celebrations of Carnivale. We are going to dinner at Vini di Gigio tonight. Off to put the rest on the blog!

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Originally posted by dean:
but they are deerskin and ohhhh so warm. Kim... I understand they are imported from NJ!

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You should have given me a spew alert on that one! Way too funny!!

Enjoying your blog and continue to have a wonderful trip.

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Originally posted by dean:deerskin and ohhhh so warm. Kim... I understand they are imported from NJ!

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WAY too funny!!!!!

I, too, am enjoying your Blog, Dean. Interested to read about Alla Frasca: it's not too far from N Castello, where I'm based from March 7-10, so after your mouthwatering descriptions... Eateries of Venice (the English translation of Michela Scibilia's Venezia Osterie) suggests it does a cheaper lunchtime menu as well as the (more expensive, but obviously good value) evening one. Did you see any signs of that?

I'm glad to be reminded of that food shop next to Nicola Tenderini's gallery. When I was there in Jan 03 (following up your rec of his work: I bought a lovely little watercolour) I wasn't self-catering, so had a frustrating time wandering round the markets seeing things I couldn't cook. So this time will be very different!

Jonathan

I did not see any sign of there being a dinner and a lunch menu but it could be so. I think in the transition they may have been likely to have started with dinner.

For great food stuffs, I think Aliani on Riva Ruga in Rialto looked better than casa di Parmigiano but we did not shop it.

Drogheria Mascari has a nice wine selection. Thanks Shannon on both recs.

I think I only recommended Drogheria Mascari, at least on slowtalk. Have you made it to La Cantina on Strada Nova yet? Sounds like you are having a fantastic time... I am jealous.

"Last night we had so so food listening to great Jazz at Paradiso Perduto in Cannareggio."

That's funny, I've never been able to find a restaurant in Italy that had both good food and good jazz.

Poor Dean - it's warm and sunny all winter in northern Italy and the week he arrives...

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Originally posted by Rar:
"Last night we had so so food listening to great Jazz at Paradiso Perduto in Cannareggio."

That's funny, I've never been able to find a restaurant in Italy that had both good food and good jazz.

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I agree - in Italy wine and food go together, but food AND music are hard to come by. In fact, as a former Chicagoan who was used to great music 7 nights a week, the lack of access to great live music is the only thing I don't like about Italy.

>>>>>> I think Aliani on Riva Ruga in Rialto looked better than casa di Parmigiano .....
Drogheria Mascari has a nice wine selection.

A few weeks ago we found beautiful things at Casa di Parmigiano including a very large jar of giant salt cured capers. Plastic jar made it easy to pack in the luggage. They have a dish with the capers out loose, but will get you the jar from the back. In general, we found more intersting things here than at Drogheria Maascari, but they are quite different.

I hope you enjoy Vini da Gigio. It is one of our favorites. Here are some pics. for all that wish they were there with you.


View from the dining room:

We are going back to Gigio again tonight for our last meal. We are actually skipping Fiaschetteria Toscana this trip for our last meal. Gigio has outstanding food and a great wine list and is only one bridge away from our apartment.