Which of these towns makes for a better place to stay? Or do some of you prefer the countryside, anyway? Does it matter which of these towns or are they all close enough to be equally good? here are so many decísions to make...
Posts: 372 | Location: Back in Seattle! | Registered: 07 February 2004
They are all great. Montichiello is really small - staying there will be like being in the countryside. There is a caffe in town, two restaurants and a food shop (I think). TuscanHouse has a great looking house for rent in this town - we have a few reviews of it.
Montalcino is larger - several caffes, restaurants, shops. It will be more lively. Dan from Atlanta likes to spend a month here every year and enjoys being in the town - here is his trip report: A month in Italy
Montepulciano is about the size of Montalcino. Also a nice town.
Anywhere in this area is a good base. We spent 3 weeks in La Fornacina, 10 minutes by car from Pienza. Kim spent a week in a villa in Castelmuzio, just down the road from the place we rented. Many other Slow Travelers have stayed in this area. I recommend reading some of the Trip Reports to get a feel for the area: www.slowtrav.com/tr/
(Some trip reports are still on the message board, but they are being moved to the web site.)
Montalcino is a pretty heavenly place in my mind. The town is small and fairly quiet and yet very cosmopolitan because of the wine business. Great food, beautiful views and, of course, my favorite wine in Toscana: Brunello di Montalcino. To me there is no question o fwhere to stay in the area!
The Cadogan guide agrees with Rar: Montepulciano 14,500, Montalcino 5,400. Larger and livelier, they say. I'll be able to tell you more about Montepulciano after next week: taking a short break there.
Jonathan
Posts: 2978 | Location: Stroud, UK | Registered: 18 November 2001
I like them all....but I have two more criteria that I use when picking a town to base myself in for a few days or more....terrain and ease of parking. For those two reasons, I usually recommend Pienza or San Quirico d'Orcia as base towns in southern Tuscany. Both are generally level as opposed to Montepulciano and Montalcino, which have significant hills to contend with. Pienza, while level, still commands stunning views over the Val d'Orcia due to its position perched on a ridge.
I also prefer somewhat larger towns than Monticchiello or Castelmuzio if I am staying for while....they have more bars, shops and activity.
Don't get me wrong..both Montalcino and Montepulciano have their charms and attractions...but I prefer to visit them rather than stay in them.
Oh yes, parking in Pienza and San Quirico d'Orcia is plentiful just outside the walls...
What a fun question to have pop up! You've gotten good advice in all the answers.
Some people much prefer being right in the heart of a town, others want to be in the countryside; I'm more the latter, but sure like to hang out in town and visit the cafes. I was jsut in all three towns you mentioned, about three weeks ago...stayed just outside Montepulciano, drove through Montichiello, had an appointment in Montalcino with a property manager I use for client rentals and to have lunch. I'd probably vote for Montalcino out of those three if staying in a town. But first question your party needs to decide is if they want in town or countryside, as they can be very different - and each wonderful - experiences.
There are three houses on Terre Toscane I am considering for me and my mother for one of the possible two weeks in Tuscany. I´d like to spend one week in the "Mont-" area (hence the name of the thread)
They are Casafrati (mentioned by many others on the site... but not yet visited) Casa Silvana and Il Giardino
I think this link works for all of them. They are houses 'senza piscina.'
All are for two people. All are also located in the countryside. I like the look of all the houses, though the exterior of Il Giardino is I think quite charming. Unfortunately, there is no square footage and not many pictures... Does anyone know any of these houses?
Another place I have considered is Le Maribelle 2There are more photos, but I don´t really get a good idea of the view...
For those who look, what do you think... ? I will contact the agency and try to get more information and photos. But an initial impression from you all would be appreciated! Thanks so far for the great ideas!
"Many a trip continues long after movement in time and space has ceased." (John Steinbeck)
Posts: 372 | Location: Back in Seattle! | Registered: 07 February 2004
Sarah, about the Terre Toscane houses (Casafrati, Casa Silvana and Il Giardino), I haven't been able to find Il Giardino on their site. I'm wondering if you mean Il Granaio. If that is the case, I should tell you that I myself trip over Italian names that look or sound similar to each other. But maybe Terre Toscane really does represent an Il Giardino, and I just haven't found it.
L'Olmo is indeed a lovely place to stay...just off the road from Pienza to Monticchiello and a few kilometers from town. And it is definitely in the countryside....
Re your initial query about the best of the three M's - Monticchiello would be my least favorite only because it is so small. We visited twice in November and probably saw a grand total of six people, no tourists. La Porta, a restaurant in town, is well worth a visit. I did enjoy this small village and made a note for future trips that there is a theatre season, July and August, featuring local authors and actors.
I agree with Jim - Montalcino and Montepulciano do have a somewhat challenging terrain and parking could well be a problem should you take a rental there. Perhaps Dan could shed some light on his experiences with parking his rental car in Montalcino.
Our rental last November, an apartment at La Foce, was not far from Pienza, Monticchiello or Montepulciano and daytrips to Montalcino and further north toward Siena were very easy drives.
A rental in the countryside would be my first choice. And if I had to choose a city for a rental, it would be Pienza.
I really like the looks and location of that hotel, Peter and have bookmarked it for future consideration.
"I am a Southerner. I like the feel of these words. I could no more be otherwise than I could shed my outer skin or change the color of my eyes." Willie Morris
Posts: 1468 | Location: on the Alabama River | Registered: 22 July 2002
Just a 'heads up:' There's a property close to Florence named Relais Villa L'Olmo, http://www.tuscany.net/relaisvillalolmo/, so be careful when looking at websites to make sure which is which.
Parking in Montalcino? There are actually a couple of lots that charge nothing at all and seem large enough to hold a crowd. The trick is to know where they are. Start in Piazza Cavour, with your back to Piazza Populo and head straigh ahead. Just as you reach the wall there is a small road to the left - It looks like an American one way (as most Italian side roads do) brave the slow descent and you will find the lot. I left a car there two weeks without problems. I understand there is another lot under construction just as you drive into Piazza Cavour.
No need for a car within the town and some areas are restricted during the day.
Dan, Athens, Georgia
Posts: 202 | Location: Athens, GA | Registered: 14 April 2002
Exactly....that is why I prefer to base myself in towns where parking is in reasonably close proximity to where I am staying and the trek back and forth doesn't become a drag.
Having first posting this thread a few days ago, I feel like I haven't made much progress... in the sense that there don't seem to be too many reasonably priced villas for two (under 600 Euro in my book) in or around Pienza, SQ and Montalcino... plenty in the countryside... In fact I haven't found any.
So, although I think the villas I listed above are all good (from the website at least), I haven't managed to increase my list of choices to include a more diverse location....
I have a feeling there are just more places of all size, style and price range nearer to or in Montepulciano than anywhere else.
Maybe I am just looking in the wrong place or have my sights on something that doesn't exist (price range?)... I will let you know if I locate something.
"Many a trip continues long after movement in time and space has ceased." (John Steinbeck)
Posts: 372 | Location: Back in Seattle! | Registered: 07 February 2004
Montepuciano gets my vote but we like the other M's too! We love everything about Montepulciano especailly the views from the walls and The Cafe Poliziano. It has lovely formal dining in the evenings and is a nice bar in the day with a small outside terrace and particularly gorgeous at sunset. Isabella Dusi's new book will be out shortly which she says isn't a sequel to Vanilla Beans and Brodo but either will good easy background reading especially about Montalcino. Wendy
Posts: 2747 | Location: Lightwater Surrey U K | Registered: 30 March 2003
I don't know if you and your mother are interested in a place in the town of Montepulciano or not, but here is a link to apartments, each with two bedrooms. My husband and I are staying there in April so I can't give you a review now, but I've heard good things about them. The two women who own them have been wonderful to deal with and we look forward to staying there. The price might be within your budget.
Parking in Montalcino? There are actually a couple of lots that charge nothing at all and seem large enough to hold a crowd. The trick is to know where they are.
There is another lot by the Fortezza. Just across from the Fortezza is a smaller pay lot. But if you go past the pay lot, with the Fortezza on your right, there is a lot. Cars pull off onto a grassy verge along side of the road and park for free. I almost alwyas can get a space there. There is also a lot down below the gate outside the walls at the Fortezza area. Parking in Montalcino has never been an issue to us.
Since we are staying at Il Giglio in Montalcino and will have an auto, I checked the hotel's Web site and this is what they say about parking:
"We have a small parking down the road, and when this is full we usually provide parking vallets that take care of guest's cars, finding the closest place."
So it might make sense to check with individual hotels and ask if they have their own parking.
“Open my heart and you will see, Graved inside of it, Italy.” -- Robert Browning
Posts: 417 | Location: Suburban New York | Registered: 21 January 2003