Back and slowly recovering from a wonderful trip to Puglia that exceeded my expectations. I am not sure which I enjoyed more, experiencing the beauty, art, culture, food and wine of Italy's heel or staying with extraordinary British hosts and a most enjoyable and varied group at Il Collegio just outside of Ostuni. Most evenings, my face hurt from laughing so much!

We had a variety of great experiences: a cooking class in a beautiful resort, a tour of a vineyard and wine tasting by the only independent wine producer in the region (yes I brought some home), a visit to an olive oil museum, interesting and varied architecture, visits to humble and sophisticated museums, visits to archelogical sights, lots of duomos and my favorite the wonderful frescoes in Santa Caterina in Galatina. We had lunch in both humble and sophisticated restaurants each day and I found the food to be simple and delicious.

I loved the white towns and the trulli, the fresh fish and the olive oil. The trunks of the olive trees are so thick that as you walk amomg them you feel you are in an enchanted forest. Oh and all the poppies and wildflowers were in bloom despite the cooler than usual weather. We covered a lot of ground in our 9 days, both costal towns and inland but the pace was never rushed. I would be hard pressed to pick a favorite town but Ostuni, Martina Franca, Galatina and Otranto top the list. I am sad to say that our wonderful hosts are not sure they are going to run this tour again as they are thinking about retiring. What a loss! They are such good ambassadors for the region.

Our very short time in Rome was a bit of a tease but fabulous as Rome always is to me, despite the crowds on labor day. We managed two great meals, revisiting my favorite piazzas, the best gelato in Rome (and of the whole trip) at my favorite Giolitti's. The highlight of our short but sweet Roman foray was a first time visit to the amazing Chiesa del Gesu. Now those are some frescoes!

I promise reviews in the near future and I really do hope to write a trip report on this memorable vacation and will post some photos soon.

Hey roomie!! It's great to hear from you. I thought about you a lot and there was no doubt that you were having a wonderful time in Puglia! I am so wicked jealous, it sounds like you had a great time without me

Seriously, so pleased that all went well and you will have to write up a trip report and post gobs of photos.

Now back to the real world.....oh, don't worry, the weather has sucked big time since you've been gone (maybe one or 2 days of decent springtime weather).

Ciao, meow

Pokey

Colleen, your trip sounds like it was a great time. Puglia is on definitely on my list of places to see soon. So glad you guys enjoyed it so much.

Welcome back, Colleen, and I'm so glad to read that you had such a good time in 'our' little corner of Italy!

It's good to read another recommendation for Galatina & its frescoes: it's been on our must-see list for some time now, and I think your enthusiasm is just what we need to finally get to visit the town.

Ah, in 3 weeks from today we fly off there for a quick visit After an English winter and a very slow-moving spring I feel absolutely ready for some Pugliese sun (and some fave e cicoria!).

Jonathan

Diana, I thought of you and Micha often during our stay at Il Collegio as you share the same vision of turning a falling down farmhouse into an osasis for guests with your hard work, creativity and artistic sensibilities. I am quite sure you would enjoy Puglia (though I have to say nothing yet beats the wines of Piemonte)!
Mindy, you would have been a welcome addition to our group-another trip someday I hope!
Joanthan, it was just starting to get really warm by the time I left and the poppies and wildflowers were beautiful! Yes you must get to Galatina, the town is nice too but the frescoes are magnificant.
Here is a picture of a typical "white street" in Puglia, so pretty, so different.

Not too make you too homesick Jonathan but here is a picture of an old, unsed truli not far from Impisi with Ostuni in the background.

One last picture that depicts how big and bushy the olive trees are in this area compared to Tuscany and Umbria. I just love the poppies scattered among the yellow wild flowers.

for me puglia is the next tuscany.. but better!
I adore it, have been twice and am planning a trip next year with my clients, hunting and cooking with my friend Stefano and his friends that go yearly.
Boys can hunt, girls will shop and we all will eat!
I adore lecce and alberobello... want to spend more time checking out martina franca
can't wait to read your report!

colleen,

All of this really makes me want to go to Puglia! There will be a time, I do think. Are your hosts totally retiring, or just retiring from this tour you were on? I looked at the website last night and it looks like a wonderful place to spend some time.

Of course, I think I could sign up for the adventure you had, if it were still to be offered.

I cannot wait to read your trip report! Welcome home!!

Oh boy, the pressure is really on now for a trip report! I should be able to get to it in the near future. I hope to do some reviews this week.
Marcia, I think they really do want to retire but will still offer a self-catering option. They are also thinking about doing some sort of artist in residence program. In their newsletter here they do suggest other good options to stay in the area. That being said, nothing is certain and you may want to check their website or contact them when you are ready to plan a trip to the Puglia area.

Lookin ahead for us, it will be a few years before Puglia rises to the top of our list. But on the list it is. Thank you colleen, and if not a trip report (I know, I know), maybe a wee postcard or two?

quote:

All of this really makes me want to go to Puglia!

Me too.

Italy just keeps getting bigger and bigger.

jan

Colleen,

Welcome back! What an amazing place Puglia must be. And your accommodations - wowza! Sounds like a great trip.

Welcome back, Colleen! Your trip sounds so heavenly.

My husband and I planning a trip to Puglia in October, and now, after reading about your great experiences and impressions, I'm looking forward to it even more.

Glad you had a wonderful time.

--Sharon

Colleen--no doubt! We will follow you on this. Hopefully next year. Thanks for sacrificing yourself by scouting for all of us!

Colleen. I'm so glad you enjoyed Puglia. We were there in 2006 and could have easily stayed twice as long.
You mentioned three of my favorite towns -- Martina Franca, Otranto and Galatina.
We also loved Gallipoli, Marina di Leuca, & Sta Cesarea Terme.
We loved the truli area, too. In fact, I decided to make a strategic real estate buy while there. Here is a picture of me with my "fixer-upper"

Another pleasant surprise in Puglia was some of "goodies" I brought back. I had no expectations of Puglia being a shopping mecca. I knew I would find great olive oil and wine to take home but this purchase was a totally unexpected. I was absolutely not looking for any leather items but it just "called" to me from the one of the vendors at the large Ostuni Saturday market. It was an incredibile bargain and fit perfectly too (very unusual for me). I was one happy camper!

Colleen, that is a georgeous jacket. Even in a web photo, I can see the grain in the leather. And you are right, I would have never thought to buy leather there.

I am always on the lookout for ceramics. On a trip to the seaside town of Otranto, I found a different style of Italian ceramics reflecting a costal theme. They will be perfect for my summer cottage I think.

On our last day in Puglia we went to the ceramic town of Grottaglie. Was I excited about the prospect of spending time a town known for it's ceramics! The patterns are much simpler in this part of Italy but very pretty.

Colleen I have thoroughly enjoyed reading about your trip so far. Love the jacket and ceramics and can't wait for more on your trip. Gosh even though the world gets smaller in some respects the list gets longer for all the glorious, untravelled places I want to get to in this life time...and that long list is just the one for Italy!..what about all the other countries? oh my! Thank you for sharing. Barb Cabot