My husband and I will be leaving in two weeks. Spending time to the south and then on to our apartment just south of Florence. This is our 6th trip to the area.....and we want to spend a day or two exploring Umbria. (expanding circles)

Our favorite way to explore is to drive toward a great Ristorante/trattoria/Osteria and wander around the area.

On my map I have these towns highlighted.... Assisi, Spello, Bevagna, Spoleta,
Todi and Narni. I hightlight places that I've read are wonderful (I'm sure there are many more) I then I try to find restaurants and write them on the map....that way if something is closed or we decide to turn left instead of right there is always a restaurant to go toward.

Please if anyone knows of wonderful restaurant or caffes or wine bars anywhere in this area please let me know.

Like many onboard, I've eaten in all 6 of the towns you mention. The only bad meal I've ever had anywhere in Umbria was at the Grifo in Narni (blow-by-blow description here, although notice it was 7 years ago).

In Todi, for a very long time, the Umbria was the unquestioned best, tourists and Tuderti alike. It has, however, slid off a ways since the founder and chef died a few years ago and his sons took over. It's still good -- and on a summer's day the campsis-twined balcony with a third of central Umbria laid out before you for miles and miles is wonderful -- but now no more than the equal of the other good restaurant in town, the Jacopone. No secrets here, and both are in the very center of town.

In Spello, where I lived a total of 6 months of my life, and which I last ate in in 2000 -- head and shoulders above the rest, the Pinturicchio. The tourist restaurants are two: the first, somewhat high-priced and both pretentious and unimpressive technically, is the Molino (usu. pronounced Mulino), which about 20 years ago won a very prestigious regional or national prize -- but I wouldn't recommend it now; the other, the Bastiglia, has a beautiful patio and a very pleasant indoor dining-room as well; but every time I eat there, they've changed cook and style, and each time I go away not really happy with the place. In 2000, my last trip, it was on a sort of lightly Umbrified international cuisine minceur, of no particular interest.

The Pinturicchio on the other hand is authentic (except, amusingly, for the so-called "Spellano" lamb, which is not particularly Spellano, but is remarkably good, one of my faves there). Relatively limited permanent menu, although you'd have to eat there both meals for a week before you exhausted it; very good wine cellar, Mirko already giving very good guidance back then, surely he's better now; fast, friendly service. Desserts (not an Umbrian thing anyway) sure nuff they're not big on. The Bastiglia and the Pinturicchio are reasonably priced; the Molino less so.

For a special meal should you happen to be in the neighborhood, da Rosanna in Attigliano was one of the 2 highlights of my Italian stay in 2000 (the other was not in Umbria). The review appears to have been purged from SlowTrav, I guess because 4 years old, but read all about it here.

[This message was edited by Bill Thayer on 16 February 2004 at 09:34 AM.]

Near Bevagna is Montefalco. There is a wonderful restaurant there called Coccorone--absolutely superb. Be sure to sample some of the Sangrantino wine there. Another place we enjoyed was just outside Trevi in the hamlet of Pigge called Pescatore. Innovative cooking and also a wonderful wine list. Try to get to Norcia which is full of places to tempt your tastebuds. The restaurant in the Hotel Grotta Azzura is very good and a member of Buon Ricordo so you can get a souvenir plate if you order the specialty. Another outstanding place is in Rivodutri, just across the border in northern Lazio, called "La Trota".

And bringing in Trevi; at least 2 other restaurants in Trevi very good: Il Terziere, a mile or so out of town, La Vecchia Posta, right in the center of town.

Norcia is an excellent place to nosh or picnic, famous thruout Umbria for its sausages, boar meat, truffles, etc. (whence the word "norcineria" for what the French call a charcuterie: non-beef butcher, basically); a number of excellent norcinerie to stock up a picnic basket in, please beautiful countryside to enjoy it in.

This is awesome....but it is lunch in Idaho and I'm starving. So, even though it won't be Italian, it will be a good hamburger, and I will check this thread when I return home.

There's a place in Orvieto, right next to the cathedral, that a group of four of us (my wife in I, my mother-in-law and her husband) went to a few years ago, and we all loved it.

But I can't for the life of me remember the name of the place. Basically, if you are coming outside the church, circle around to your right, and the restaurant is right there, in the same piazza as the church. Ah, I think I found it (ViaMichelin.com is awesome!). It's called Giglio d'Oro, and it's located at Piazza Duomo, 8.

Another place we really liked was La Taverna del Lupo, in Gubbio. Fantastically good food. It's part of the Buon Ricardo "network" of restaurants. La Taverna del Lupo has incredible dishes with truffles, and the atmosphere there is incredible. IIRC, there's a Roman column in the middle of the dining room.

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Originally posted by grinisa:

Near Bevagna is Montefalco. There is a wonderful restaurant there called Coccorone--absolutely superb. Be sure to sample some of the Sangrantino wine there.

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A Caprai makes my favorite Sagrantino. His best is called 25 Anni. It is a selection from the oldest vines on the property. It is pretty wonderful stuff. Paolo Bea is another famous name. There is a third producer of great repute but I forget the name. I am certain there are others I don't know even exist. It isn't cheap, but it is a unique wine that combines the best elements of Amarone (extraction, high alcohol, slight natural sweetness) with an almost Brunello earthiness and spice, but with its own unique fruit components.


There is Rosso di Montefalco which is made with Sagrantino grapes and other varieties. Sagrantino di Montefalco is a bigger wine of huge proportions and a really exuberant fruit component. It is high in alcohol and best served with roasts, grilled lamb, game, cheese. Passito is added to the name when the grapes ahve been dried and the wine vinified with some to a lot of residula sugar. Sagrantino di Montefalco also can be made in a Riserva.

Osteria del Podesta in Bevagna was our hands down favorite from last autumn's trip to Umbria. I believe you will find a review and possibly an
address on the board.

However, Mauro and Silvana from Le Case Gialle mentioned that it is rumored that the owners have lost their lease and the name (which oddly goes with the building). Hopefully the two brothers who run this wonderful restaurant will find another suitable location in Bevagna.

My husband and I love to visit Enoteca Properzio in Spello - it's another place to sample the wonderful Sagrantino wines of Umbria. Colpetrone is another
label to look for - it won't hurt the pocketbook quite as much as Arnaldo
Caprai or Paolo Bea.

The owner of Properzio is so hospitable and will put out a fantastic spread of local cheeses, meats, oils and wines - very generous and enough for a light meal. We have visited here several times and have never been charged for the tasting. Of course, we do tend to leave with a few hundred euro in purchases.

We liked Trattoria La Mulinella just outside of Todi as did Edna and Amy in their review of it. There reviews were among the 36 other restaurants reviewed at the "Restaurant Reviews" section under "Food/Restaurants" at Slow Travelers.
Here is some info on La Mulinella: Todi; Località Pontenaia 29; Tel. 075 8944779

However, Trippini in Baschi(Frazione of Civitella del Lago) is among the best restaurants in Umbria. I would classify it as a "destination" restaurant as the little town is quite pleasant and the view of the lake below from the restaurant is beautiful. Trippini (www.trippini.net) is between Todi and Orvieto (about 15 miles from Orvieto).

Peter

I'll second the good review on Enoteca Properzio. They're expensive, but all in all probably worth it; and Carlo and Roberto's openness and I would even say generosity extend to those who like me, don't buy a heckuva lot. Not only in their own store when they didn't know me, but afterwards, knowing me and that I'm not likely to buy cases of Sagrantino, the surprise, in part arranged by Mirko at the Pinturicchio, of sharing a pair of Sagrantinos, 1990 Adanti and Caprai, a sort of mini-winetasting over a meal (diary, Oct. 7, 1998). Since I don't look particularly prepossessing, and certainly don't talk up any influence I don't have -- believe me, I've seen people who do! -- I can only put it down to good vibes.

Umbria, Peter, not Puglia. Your slip just adds to my growing feeling that I'm going to have to allot a bit more cash to good eats when I'm down there (in Puglia, that is): the carcass in a sleeping-bag, but fatten it up in a few good restaurants.

Umbria: my favorite subject.

Don't miss Taverna del Pescatore. As you are traveling south, just past Trevi (on your left and picturesque atop the hill) look for one small sign that will direct you to turn right. TdP is down the hill just off the highway. I visit Umbria twice a year and wouldn't think of missing lunch (and sometimes dinner) here.

I can also recommend La Bastiglia atop Spello. You can, if you wish, skirt the drive through town by taking a right just before the arch over the road and proceeding up the hill to the top. Bastiglia has a large parking lot. A good wine list and an adventurous kitchen.

If you are near Orvieto, I Sette Consoli is memorable. Fine wine, food and service (a woman chef). Its on the main street at Piazza S. Angelo 1/A. Beautiful outdoor dining space.

I have visited Arnaldo Caprai and Paolo Bea wineries. I think that you can ask any gas station for directions. Caprai is a big deal with tasting room, etc. I even have one of their tshirts. Bea is tiny and very personal. Both make great Sagrantino. (And I still have an unopened .375 liter Passito from Bea.)

I also second a visit to Norcia. Amazing salumi and all good meat goods. Nearby and up a hill is Casteluccia, famous for their lentils.

Buon viaggio. I have some envy since I shall not be in Umbria in April.

Restaurant reviews have not been purged - Bill were some of yours there but are now missing? If so, it might be something I messed up.

Link to SlowTrav Umbria restaurant reviews:
Italy: Restaurants - Reviews for Umbria

Dale - if you see this email me - I have been emailing you to get permission to copy your trip report over to the web site:
http://slowtalk.com/eve/forums?a=tpc&s=759607521&f=9806074571&m=1716097581

pauline@slowtrav.com

I thought I had private messaged you too - but maybe it got deleted in my accidental cleaning of Private Messages. I will PM you now.

Also see Ginda's restaurant list for Umbria:
http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/restaurant_list/umbria_ginda.htm

Rebecca (Brigolante) sent me a draft of an Umbria restaurant list, but I think she is still working on it.

Pauline, I guess it's not my day for navigation. No you haven't purged my review, everything's fine; I just went round and round from the Italy and the Italy restaurant pages and somehow never found my way.

Dale, if inclined, don't forget to add yourself to the Trip Calendar; misery loves company, of course. Or, in keeping with my skills today, have I failed to see you there, plain as day?

Bill, I have edited my post and Umbria it is!

As I write this and reading posts I am in the throes of trying to print a Black & White photograph with an injet printer. So while thinking of all the excellent food that I have enjoyed in Puglia, wondering which settings should be changed in the photo editor and/or print driver in order to achieve a better B&W photograph, my aging mind doesn't work too well.

Back to printing...

Petr

Just noticed Mike's recommendation for Taverna del Lupo in Gubbio. Thank God people are different; while I ate a pleasant enough meal, I found it basically meretricious: watch me wrestle unusually long to come to that -- the blow-by-blow of my single lunch there, June 2000. It may sound like quibbling, were it not that one of the two restaurants I mention, at the time, as better by my lights, is a truck stop! and I wasn't even considering prices, just food.

Wow! Umbria Restaurants...one of my favourite subjects

ok here is my list:

Spello: I agree with Bill:
Don't miss Pinturicchio, you can easily avoid Il Molino (too pretentious) and why not try La Bastiglia (the terrace is nice and the view is perfect)
Trevi: Osteria Vecchia Posta (my favourite!) just in the Piazza
Foligno: Osteria del Teatro (very good wine selection) or Enoteca Bacco Felice (Salvatore, the owner is great and he always suggests you the right wine to taste with ...you MUST reserve your table since there are very few seats!)...
if you find yourself strolling around Foligno in the afternoon do not miss La Bottega di Barbanera, a cafè just in the Piazza della Repubblica in front of the Town Hall and near the Cathedral...you shoul have a tea with a slice of one of the many great cakes they prepare
Spoleto: La Pecchiarda
Scheggino:Hotel Ristorante Del Ponte...in this deliciuos little village on the bank of Nera River (...the river of Cascate delle Marmore just to make things clear ) this restaurant is a real treat...do not miss tagliolini with crawfishes, risotto with black truffles and their speciality: the trout)
Bevagna: L'Orto degli Angeli: beautiful location and excellent food
Todi: Enoteca Pane e Vino
Norcia: Hotel Grotta Azzurra

ok... let's stop now and go prepare my lunch!

Corinna

O to think I missed the Del Ponte in Scheggino, and what I ate there instead! Scheggino is indeed beautiful; what's more, Jeannie, it's on your way to Norcia, which must surely be writ in red ink in your book by now.

Speaking of Norcia, I too ate at the Grotta Azzurra, my hotel for a day in the summer of 2000; meal was good, maybe even very good, although not the outstanding experience of Rosanna in Attigliano, or of the Pinturicchio in Spello on their best days. (View from my hotel room, description of meal: here).

And a redeeming feature to Foligno, yet. Only half-joking (despite some very interesting churches and a good museum, I'm not big on Foligno). But one winds up stuck there for one reason or another; this time I'll be carrying my notepad with Corinna's recommendations.

Orto degli Angeli in Bevagna; the hotel is splendiferous if maybe not quite in the best of taste, an old manor carved out of pieces of a number of houses, a Roman temple, and part of the Roman theatre -- the dining-room built in to the latter, for photo see previous thread -- frescoed ceilings, etc. The food is good, but I wouldn't give it any stars; imaginative though, not Umbrian the two times I ate there, but adaptations of medieval recipes somewhat like Moroccan food: which can be very welcome if the limited Umbrian diet has begun to get to you.

Trevi, I find in my diary that I also ate at Ristorante Maggiolini, and in fact it was Maggiolini I had in mind earlier when I said the Terziere was out of town (lunch at the Maggiolini recorded here, at the Terziere here), and sorry for the slip-up. Diary helps immensely to recall fading memories!

Hi Bill!
Surely you post before I edit my message....the restaurant in Scheggino is Del Ponte (I get confused with an anonimous restaurant-pizzeria in Spoleto...terrible! what a mistake)
In Scheggino there is also la Trattoria Baciafemmine (definitely a funny name ): it seems you are in a private house and you eat exactly what they have prepared that day...but really Umbrian food
As for Bevagna my preference went to Orto degli Angeli against Enoteca Piazza Onofri simply because at the Enoteca you eat well but the service leaves much to be desired
.....
what can I say about Foligno....it's my town!

Corinna

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Originally posted by Bill Thayer:
For a special meal should you happen to be in the neighborhood, da Rosanna in Attigliano was one of the 2 highlights of my Italian stay in 2000 (the other was not in Umbria). The review appears to have been purged from SlowTrav, I guess because 4 years old, but read all about it here.

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Your review is here, Bill. I'll investigate why it doesn't turn up with a search.

Corinna: I had a half day tour of Foligno by a native a couple of years ago. And have had Sunday pranzo at a private home there twice. Unforgetable. My friend, Gennaro Villella, is partner in a bakery cum high end salumeria behind the hospital. Can't remember the name, but I think its the Latin for wine and food (or something like that).