Our upcoming trip with SIL/BIL in April (10 - 25) is starting to come together. We were originally considering a less than Slow Travel type of whirlwind tour, but I think we have a great plan in place.
Mind you, we haven't bought plane tickets yet. I am the eternal optimist, and an hoping for something better than $900+ for RT from Philly, so I'll continue to watch and wait. We would fly either into Rome or Milan.
Whichever airport we end up using, we will take the train to Florence, where we will spend our first 3 nights at the Poggi Apartment. We were originally looking to stay at a B&B, but instead decided on quarters where we could enjoy some coffee klatch time in our own living room. This place has more bedrooms than we actually need, but the price is right for the 4 of us.
After Florence, we have decided to use Cortona as our Tuscany base for the next 5 nights. We were initially tossing around the idea of visiting the Tuscan coast, but decided to go inland instead. Cortona is not really situated in the heart of Tuscany, but I think it will work out very nicely for us. Here is a link to our rental in Cortona.
After our 5 nights in Cortona, my SIL/BIL have to return home, but Stu & I will still have another week to enjoy Italy. We are considering an Umbrian town, yet to be determined. We like to stay in in-town rentals, not in the countryside. Nothing too big and busy, but also not a town too detached and quiet. We love medieval towns that are revitalized and living, with plenty of streets to explore, and selections of restaurants, shops, and local lore.
Suggestions invited and welcome!
This message has been edited. Last edited by: teaberry,
For your Umbrian town, have you considered Spoleto? It's a nice size, has a very lively feel to it with plenty to do, and is in an area with lovely drives to other interesting destinations. Some may consider it a bit out of the way, but it depends on what other towns you're interested in exploring.
Would Perugia or Assisi suit, or are they larger than what you have in mind? We have travel notes about them both.
Yes, Amy! Definitely on my list. The more I look at Umbria, the more I like it. Spoleto sounds very much like what we like. I've been checking out ST trip reports and travel notes galore. We'll have a car and will love doing a few day trips.
I'm also thinking that it would probably be best for us to aim for FCO airport for our departure.
While you mentioned Umbria as your next place to stay, the description for the "perfect" town really describes what we recently found in lucca. Our only mistake was in not venturing outside the walls into the rest of the city until the last day. There is so much to see and do. We really enjoyed it.
Hi Terry, how fun!!! Question though--why not fly into Florence since that is where you will be at first. It is such an easy airport--very small, simple to pick up a car, etc. Actually, you would not need to get a car until you leave Florence as you do not want or need a car while there.
Spoleto would be good. So would Spello or Bevagna in Umbria. Of course, Assisi is great and makes a good base. We have done that.
IMHO, Bevagna is just too small for the kind of base you want. Of course maybe I was spoiled having come from the less-touristed Marche area. But Bevagna has just the one narrow main street, and one VERY beautiful piazza. I think more of a day trip than a town to spend a few days in.
But, as I've said before, others may (and certainly will ) disagree.
Your plan sounds great. Cortona is not really "in the heart" of Tuscany, but it is an excellent base to see some of the most beautiful areas in Tuscany (being itself an amazing place).
Umbria is also fabulous. Spoleto is very nice, but I would also look into Gubbio which is breath taking.
About the flights: I have been researching for airport fares for some customers and I have found that Bologna (BLQ) has great airfares, it is central, extremely well connected to Florence and as Florence is cute and easy.
About Umbria, my vote is always for Perugia, I love that place and by the way I have a request: Even if I love Perugia, we usually take advantage of street food there, torta al testo, the Kebab place behind the Turreno Theatre etc... Someone has asked about a great place either for lunch or dinner. And being I the cheapo but good restaurant seeker I am at loss here. These are people that can afford great names, but I have no experience here, can anyone help me here? Either in Perugia or in Assisi.
It's a perfect location--you leave your car in the public lot and right out the door of the hotel you are "in" the centro. We thought it was wonderful! I have more details if you start leaning in that direction.
Sound slike a great trip Terry! I'm sorry we'll be in the states when you're here in Umbria, but I've sent you a PM.
Regarding the airfare costs, I'm getting ready to pay $840 for a DECEMBER flight back to the states....and that's for early December, well before the holidays! Ouch!
Terry, have you looked into flights from Newark? I've been seeing $700 lately on www.itasoftware.com. There is a train station at the airport, so you wouldn't have to drive from Philadelphia if you don't want to.
ellen
Posts: 3678 | Location: mahwah, new jersey, usa | Registered: 10 December 2003
Thanks for all your input; I'm already staking out info.
Ellen, Newark is a great option for us - the train station at the airport makes it a snap; we've done it before and it works very nicely. Thanks for the itasoftware link, too.
Alessandra, I forgot that's where your shop is! Yes, it WILL be fun to meet you finally. I will follow up on this as the dates get closer.
Jan, a recommendation from you is like one from my own sister. Thanks.
I really love Umbria, I don't know it as well as I'd like (yet!) But Perugia is a great base in that it's a good size for a week's stay, but also gives you good access to other places like Gubbio, Assisi, Spello (I loved Spello!)
You mentioned that you prefer apartments and I know that there has been some discussion recently about an apartment for rent in the historic centre of Perugia, which someone was going to try although I haven't yet seen a review.
Spoleto is a good suggestion, as well. There's lots going on there to see and do, although when I stayed in June 2007 so much of the historic centre was under scaffolding. That may change by next spring, however!
The one downside to Spoleto is that it's bit away from the centre of Umbria, so a bit farther from, say, Gubbio (which is enchanting.)
Alessandra I'm no expert but if you're looking for restaurant recommendations, in Assisi I really like Osteria Piazzetta delle Erba, just off the main piazza. I ate there twice this year and twice last year. I think it's a Slow Food restaurant. And in Perugia, I had a great meal at da Nana. I also heard great things about one of Letizia's recommended restaurants, but I never could find the damned place! It's called L’Officina and is in Borgo XX Giugno 56, apparently it’s one of the last shops on the left side when walking towards San Pietro.
It sounds like you have done a lot of research and the trip will be wonderful I'm sure.
Have you thought about Ovieto as an Umbrian base? Built on a craggy volcanic outcrop it has spectacular views over the surrounding countryside and vineyards which produce its delicious white wine.
The town is beautiful and lively with great shops and restaurants not to mention the stunning Duomo and one of Italy's greatest fresco cycles. It's also full of Etruscan goodies with fascinating tours of the tombs and labyrinths.
We took several groups there last summer and I was always struck by how lovely it was especially in the evening when the whole place comes alive for the passeggiata. Ovieto also has good motorway links so if you have a car you could easily visit some of the other Umbrian highlights like Perugia, Todi, Assisi etc. So with wine, art, views and some great gelato as well, what more could you possibly want!
Whoops a daisy! as we say in England!! Yes that's Orvieto, and not the other way around! Thanks telefoNina whoever you are. Perhaps you could check all my posts from now on LOL
Thanks for all your suggestions so far. I'm weighing all options, and reading lots of trip reports presently. Also checking out Slow Photos of Umbria - wow, I can't wait to get there!
When I examine the Umbrian map, I see that Perugia is quite centrally located, which appeals to me. The more I read about the town, the more I am intrigued and drawn to it.
Orvieto also sounds like a really beautiful place, but appears to be located more on the edge of Umbria. Since we will want to take some daytrips, I'm thinking that a stay in Orvieto may be a little out of the way.
After reading quite a few trip reports and viewing some really amazing photos albums, I find myself leaning towards these 4 towns (in terms of central location and charm): Spoleto, Todi, Spello, Perugia.
It seems like Perugia is the largest of these towns, but is this basically a coin flip for us? I am a little "on the fence" as to how to choose.
I should add here that we love to tour and visit during the day, but prefer to spend our evenings in our "hometown" - for dinner, drinks, walks, and roll into bed (no driving after dinner).
Terry, that's very much how I feel as well and part of the reason that I've made Perugia my main base on two fabulous trips to Umbria. Sometime, I really would like to stay in an agriturismo for a change. But to date, I've prefered larger centres where I can spend the evening trying different restaurants, having some wine and being able to stroll around and then back home without worrying about driving after dinner!
Perugia has so much to offer, in my opinion. No need for a coin toss! I find Perugia so fascinating, so much life and so many layers of history. (Literally: underground Perugia is fascinating!) And plenty of good restaurants, winebars, and enough places for an evening stroll that you won't get bored after an evening or two.
If you haven't had a look at Valda and Saint Bambi's Perusing Perugia notes, they are fantastic -- very helpful but would also now give you a bit of an idea of how much there is to see and do.
Did you happen to see the piece in the latest National Geographic Traveller on Perugia? The writer's theme -- Perugia is like a beautiful woman, many layers to peel away before you get the centre, etc.etc. -- is pretty cliched. But I supposed it's a cliche because there is some truth to it.
Some of Perugia's great attributes jump right out at you -- the major churches, the National Gallery of Umbria, the Corso Vanucci. But there are so many other hidden gems, and it can take some time and homework to find them, but it's worth it.
I've been meaning to write a trip report about my visit in September. But I did blog quite a bit about Perugia over the past few months, if you want to take look.
Claire and I are unashamedly devoted to Perugia, loving it for its vibrancy, its history, the opportunities offered to learn and speak Italian with people of all ages from all over the world, its centrality (geographically and historically) to the wider Italy - its electricity and, at the same time, mysticism in atmosphere. But I think, most of all, for its warts - the warts that make this small city real and not just a city marketed for tourists.
Having read your excellent blog and your many, many helpful suggestions via Slowtrav, I know that you, too, have fallen under Perugia's charm. Your perceptive comments on the joys (and woes!) of travelling in and appreciating Umbria encourage people to discover this wonderful part of Italy.
Thank you!
PS The map on which Claire and I based our Perusing Perugia notes has now been altered and many of the numbers now don't match the sites. When we get the time and the puff, Claire and I hope to update. Nevertheless, the content is still very relevant.
da Nanà. I also heard great things about one of Letizia's recommended restaurants, but I never could find the damned place! It's called L’Officina and is in Borgo XX Giugno 56, apparently it’s one of the last shops on the left side when walking towards San Pietro.
Sandra, ciao!!!! Nana is in Corso Cavour 202, certainly one of the best restaurants in Perugia at the moment for us mortals who do not want to spend a fortune. L'officina Tel. 0755721699 is about 200 mt further on the left. I like Nana' better so I have not been for a while.
Alessandra, for a simpler meal in Assisi area, another option is the Ristorante Basilica in S.M. degli Angeli. It is much less pretty than Piazzetta dell'erba and more traditional, but a little cheaper and always busy with locals. Call in advance if you go during the week end Via Protomartiri Francescani 11, opposite the apse of church, closed Tue. Tel. 0758044491
Should you have any time give me a call and I come to meet you for a coffee.
Letizia, I really enjoyed Da Nana, I thought the food and service were both wonderful...it was a quiet evening, so the owner stopped by my table and we had a nice conversation in French. (Everyone's favourite default language!)
I wish I could have found L'Officina, I probably walked past it and missed it entirely. Next time, for sure.
Valda, thanks for your kind words. You and Claire (and Letizia!) have helped to get me hooked on Perugia, and Umbria. I owe you all a great debt.
I think that I've now narrowed it down to Perugia, Todi, or Spoleto. As lovely as Spello sounds, I think we shall reserve it for a day visit. From all that I've read and viewed, I think we could have an absolutely fabulous time in any of these towns.
From the information I've gleaned from so many of the threads here, I'd like to pose a few questions and observations to the experts here:
1) Does anyone know if there is scaffolding and ongoing construction still going on in Spoleto today from the earthquake damage?
2) How does the town of Perugia compare in size to Aix-en-Provence? (am I comparing apples and oranges?)
3) Would you say there are abundant numbers of restaurants in Todi and Spoleto? (I KNOW there are more than plenty numbers in Perugia).
4) How is parking in Todi and Spoleto, compared to Perugia?
5) There seems to be a paucity of rentals in Perugia, at least compared to Todi and Spoleto. What's up with that?
Just wondering... is this your first trip to Tuscany/Umbria? Your answer to this will help me to answer your questions.
We stayed in a villa outside of Todi in 2005 ...Todi is small ... would you be staying right in Todi ...or on the outskirts? I would think that Todi would be pretty quiet in the evening.
What type of experience are you looking for in Umbria? What towns do you want to visit while in Umbria?
Karen
Posts: 364 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 26 January 2005
We like to stay in-town, not in the countryside. Nothing too big and impersonal and busy, but not so quiet either. We enjoy all the shops and nooks and crannies to explore. We would be interested in eating in town most of our nights, so a nice restaurant selection would be important. After a day of walking or touring, we don't like to drive after dinner, just eat, drink, walk, sleep.
I think if Spoleto isn't under construction this would be a great town to stay in. There are lots of good restaurants if I remember corectly but I only did a day trip and don't know how lively it is at night. The construction in 05 really overshadowed the town's beauty but perhaps it has improved since then. It is a good location to do day trips from. I think Todi is not as well located for daytrips to many of Umbria's great cities and I don't recall numerous great restaurants. I too think Perguia is a great choice. College towns are usually interesting and have a more lively night life. It may come down to what kind of apartment choices you have. Hopefully somone will have a recent update on the construction scene in Sploteo to help you decide. The researching and planning is such fun though isn't it?
Karen, our base for Tuscany, Cortona, while not really "central" is going to be all about Tuscany. We will be with SIL/BIL, and seeing Tuscany will be on our agenda. Our second week will be devoted to Umbria.
Colleen, I was thinking too that it may come down to accommodation, as all the towns are equally appealing to me.
Having just come from two glorious days in Cortona, I can tell you we enjoyed it immensely. Having said that, I personally enjoy the southern Tuscany (Montalcino, San Quirico, Pienza, etc.) area better and I am happy that we got to spend three days there as well.
Cortona is indeed close to the Tuscany/Umbria border and very close to Lago Trasimeno which would probably be really nice in May when it is not off-season (everything around the lake was closed and bordered up now).
As for where to stay in Umbria, I would offer up the beautiful small (flat!!) town of Bevagna where we stayed last year for an entire week in the Palazzo Brunamonti and just loved it. We managed to eat very well almost every night within the city and also enjoyed the fact that we could walk back to our hotel room after dinner (i.e. wine = no driving)!!
I have written a trip report on this site so you can get more details there is you are interested.
Hi Terry - In answer to your last questions about Spoleto: As of this past summer there was a lot of scaffolding up. It did not in any way spoil the 10 days that I was there, but I have been there for extended periods a few times before and knew what to expect. There is always construction in Spoleto - last year worse than most. If this is an important factor for you you should ask for more detailed info from someone who has just returned. There are many restaurants on all different levels and a lively night life in both the upper and lower towns. Very good mid-priced shopping also. Parking in the upper town can be quite difficult. You will need to make arrangements with your landlord or hotel beforehand. If I were in your shoes I would narrow my choices to Perugia and Spoleto. Nothing against Todi at all, but it is out of the way and not convenient as a base - except maybe for a visit to Orvieto. Perugia is much larger than Spoleto and more spread out. I am also a fan of staying in lively towns that are not too big, but have plenty of things to do. I never get bored with Spoleto and still make new discoveries.
Dorit, thanks for your helpful advice. I particularly appreciate your offering of the town of Bevagna and the Palazzo - the town and the hotel sound beautiful, and present compelling lures to me.
I also enjoyed reading your trip reports from Tuscany and Umbria. It sounds like you really enjoyed yourselves, and I loved following along. Lots of great info, there.
Matt, thanks for the information you have shared about Spoleto. I think I would be somewhat disappointed if much of the town was scaffolded. Perhaps others who have been there more recently can weigh in on the status of this.
I think you are all swaying me to drop Todi from the where-to-stay list. "Central" would definitely be a good option.
Terry, You are more than welcome. Indeed my favorite places in the world are really Tuscany and Umbria. Having just returned from Tuscany 4 days ago, I am thinking about when I can go again!!!
Let me know if I can help with anything else. It was really hard for me to make a decision about exactly where to base in Umbria last year but I was definitely happy about my choice in the end.
When I was there, Spoleto was indeed in a bit of disarray with scaffolding everywhere. Maybe it is better now but someone who has been there recently would know better.
Purposefully, I've not read the previous posts. I'm just going to tell you that I've spent two weeks in October in Todi and it was heavenly. Why?
Because it was very quiet there; great food and wine, few tourists and many options. Cortona does not interest me after the chaos that has come from Francis Mayes' book and that horrible Disney film. Spoleto seems much larger than Todi, to me, though I did enjoy the day I spent there.
I also think Bevagna is worth some consideration....And I found a new place I adore, but it is in Lazio.........Otricoli.....just 500 residents. Small, everyone is acquainted and quite a few expats reside there.....
Originally posted by Cheryl Alexander: Cortona does not interest me after the chaos that has come from Francis Mayes' book and that horrible Disney film.Cheryl
I don't think you have come here ever, Cheryl, otherwise you wouldn't say that.
There is no Chaos from the movie or the book. True there are at times more people, but really nothing nearly as Chaothic as you think. Plus, Cortona has always been an art and culture destination for Italians. Having said that, your vacations are your vacations, spend them as and where you want.
Am I over-thinking? The decision about where to stay in Umbria is turning out to not be an easy one for me.
We will definitely reserve a day for a visit to Todi, as it sounds beautiful. But not central.
Perugia, Spoleto, Bevagna. I keep tossing the pros and cons around. All three have some nice choices in accommodations, in addition to all their charms.
Dorit, you said that there would be enough restaurants/cafes in Bevagna to last us for the week?
I'm also having trouble getting a feel for the size of Perugia. Would you say it is more like a small city, or more like a larger, countrified town?
Another question about Spoleto...there's an upper and lower town. Advantages or suggestions as to which part of town to stay in?
I don't know if I can say there are enough restaurants/cafes in Bevagna to last you a week. Because we did not always have a meal in Bevagna each day or eve.
If you are the type that always tours all day and comes back to your hotel in the early evening for a light rest and shower before walking out for a dinner, I doubt you will be able to find a different restaurant each night.
That said, we found one that we really liked and so ate there three nights!!! We sometimes chose to have a larger midday meal at whichever of the small towns we happened to be in (sometimes I planned to be in a certain place because I knew I wanted to try a certain restaurant) and then for our evening meal we would just have some light snacks we might have bought in a COOP or something like that.
As for the size of Perugia it is most certainly and definitely MUCH MUCH larger than a small little town like Bevagna. I would call it a small city. I think Bevagna is the smallest of the three, then Spoleto and then Perugia is the biggest.
Personally I loved Bevagna best. But I always go for the smallest ones. Hey, I just got back from staying in a small place near Lucca that only consists of 300 people (!!!!). So........
Terry - I would not fret too much over your decision. All your choices have their own merits. Perugia is most definitely a city; Bevagna a very small town. If you are going to consider a town the size of Bevagna I would also add Spello to my list of possibilities. It is a beautiful hill town with some great art and good restaurants. There are some good rentals right in town. Try Walter Zurlo at "In Urbe." I would consider Spoleto to be the "in between" of Perugia and Bevagna. Definitely stay in the upper town - inside the city walls. I do not personally know of rental apartments in Spoleto (I'm sure there are many), but there are some very good historic residences in the upper town. Pallazzo Dragoni would be a great choice if it fits your budget.
Terry, one thing about Perugia -- although we really liked the city, we found the traffic getting in and out of it was quite a problem the times when we visited. I don't remember the exact times of year, but it would have been spring or fall, since we don't go to Europe in the summer. So if you are using it as a base for day trips, that might add significant time to traveling.
Dorit, I like your thinking. I think we travel the same way. We would glady enjoy a large lunch in a very nice restaurant somewhere, and then have a lighter dinner back in hometown, or at our own place, for that matter. I do like villages that are alive and vital, which is why Bevagna sounds appealing.
Matt, thank you so much for your concrete advice and suggestions. I will look into those. Good to know about the Upper Town in Spoleto. And explore Spello a little further, too. I don't know where I read that it was a little too quiet there.
And Roz, we will be in Umbria in April, so I would imagine traffic would be a similar experience to yours. I really appreciate you bringing out the strategic aspects to maneuvering into and out of Perugia.
I agree wholeheartedly with what Roz writes about Perugia. It is a lovely city and we enjoyed the time we spent there. However, I much rather be in a small town where I don't have to worry about traffic, too many streets and roads, etc.
That said, I don't know how "alive and vital" Bevagna is. It is a small sleepy town which is what suits ME just fine. I believe Spello, another gorgeous little town we visited, is probably more of the same. Personally that is what I love. If you do too, go for it.
And as others have said before, whichever town you choose, if they are in the same type of size category that you are looking for, you really can't go too wrong. They are ALL so lovely, beautiful, "Italian". I also stress a lot when trying to make a decision on where to stay, especially if it is for 9 days as it was for our Umbria trip last year.
I was so pleased that I chose Bevagna and the Brunamonti Hotel for a myriad of reasons. But I do believe that had I chosen another one of the many options available, I would not have been less happy!!!
Just as an aside, it seems Sandra and I also travel alike and have similar likes. She recently came back from several days in Bevagna and at Brunamonti and loved it as much as I !!!
As I said above somewhere Terry, Bevagna is really a bit small (IMHO) to serve as a base, and is not really that vibrant (whatever that means). It doesn't have the range of shops that you might want in a place that's going to be your base.
As Ellen said, PM me if you'd like to hear more of my opinionated opinions.
I think this may be "our town." Several choice rentals I'm discovering, in fine locations, just a lovely village, a decent restaurant selection, shops, enoteca...I'm liking the whole picture.
Terry, I sympathize -- this is a tough call! In terms of Bevagna, I'm going to second Marian's impressions. I stayed 3 nights in Bevagna in September at the fantastic Hotel Brunamonti (which Dorit kindly recommended, thanks again Dorit!)
As lovely as Bevagna was, and very easy to get in and out of with the rental car, 3 evenings was more than enough. It's very lovely but very tiny. For some, that would be part of its charm and although I'm a lazy traveler even I need a bit more variety! There are a couple of nice piazzas -- one very lovely -- but really just one main street.
I had quite a debate here last spring as to whether to stay in Bevagna or Spello, and having seen both I have to say that I think there would be a bit more to see and do in Spello. I thought it was a gorgeous little town, fabulous art, some good restaurants, interesting streets to explore. But as a base to return to for more than a few nights, I'm not sure.
Perugia is definitely a city, with all of the good and bad (bad, in terms of getting in and out with a rental car.) But you'd certainly have plenty of choice if a rainy day kept you in town, or in the evening when you're looking for good restaurants and interesting strolls.
If you go with Spoleto, I second Matt's recommendation of Palazzo Dragoni. I stayed there for 4 nights in June 2007. It's incredible, the family still lives in part of the palazzo! I think all of the rooms have a fantastic view across a park towards the hills (mine even caught a bit of Spoleto's gorgeous Duomo.) Gorgeous antiques and the largest breakfast I have ever seen in Italy. And all for 100 euro for a large double.
Terry - just want to add another aspect to your thoughts and decision-making process - take into consideration that Bevagna is completely flat, as opposed to all the others. For me/us, it made a difference that after all our days of climbing steep and very steep beautiful hill towns, we had a place where we could easily walk around without huffing and puffing. If this is immaterial to you, then by all means try Spello or any of the other lovely places.
Let us know what you decide in the end and have a great time!!
Umbria as your reserach iwll tell you has many sizes of town/village.
Big - Perugia / Assisi / Orvieto Medium - Spoleto, Foligno, Todi Small - Spello, Bevagna, Montefalco, Deruta, castiglione del lago, Trevi, Terni, Magione Tiny - Corciano, Norcia, Paciano, Marsciano. Hamlet - Aquilone
Tiny places are fun to visit, take a few pictures, buy local products and grab lunch.But I wouldn't stay in Spoleto as it is a pretty dull place that lives for its one festival a year - "Due Mondi". This means you have to downsize a bit.
My personal favourite is Montefalco, not just for the wine, linen and restaurants but because there are two places worth the money to stay in. http://www.Villapambuffetti.com a fab hotel or 500m from the town walls is Camiano Piccolo, it has rooms and apartments and is very good value for money - my favourite apartments are Granaio, Fornacetta and casa del pastore. Don't bother if he offers anything else, they aren't as nice inside.
whatever you pack - always take a torch! umbria is great, Spello is a artists colony and has more galleries than anything you'll have ever seen in such a small town. Deruta is a ceramics town and has loads of octegenarian majolica workers that are irreplaceable. Bevagna has a couple fo good restaurants and little else but their august festival when the whole town goes medieval is fabulous.
have fun!
Posts: 7 | Location: sussex UK | Registered: 02 December 2008
Cortona is fine. A pretty place with a palio horse race just like Siena held between its districts. not sure 5 days is too much time but its OK for visiting Tuoro and the islands on Lake Trasimeno, Castiglion Fiorentino (has an american run art school) and the outlet shops at Bettolle/Valdichiana.
get a map of umbria and mark out the major towns and you'll see that they are all in the northern part near Perugia. you may have to skip Todi and Orveto as they are a bit of a drive. And Spoleto is a long way south too. Especially if you want to see Torgiano (wine museum), Assisi etc.
Gubbio is too far out in the middle of nowhere just like Citta di Castello which is why I didn't mention them previously. But both are quite unique. Read up on them before you make a decision
Posts: 7 | Location: sussex UK | Registered: 02 December 2008
Cortona is fine. A pretty place with a palio horse race just like Siena held between its districts. not sure 5 days is too much time but its OK for visiting Tuoro and the islands on Lake Trasimeno, Castiglion Fiorentino (has an american run art school) and the outlet shops at Bettolle/Valdichiana.
Dogsbody, There is no horse run Palio in Cortona, and the Archidado, which is a rievocation celebration of a medieval wedding, plus a crossbow challenge is anyway held in May.
The American rus art school in Castiglion Fiorentino is A Taxan school, Santa Chiara, in Cortona we have the UGA abroad program since almost 40 years.
Gubbio is one hour and 15 out of Cortona, Città di Castello 45 min.
I realize that we all have different perceptions, but I also disagree with some of Dogsbody's statements (no offense please). I do not see Spoleto as dull at all. That is why I have been going back for years. I have attended all kind of events in the town from club boxing in the lower town to concerts in the duomo. There always seems to be something going on; all free and not during the festival. There is generally a very lively nightlife and passeggiata and good shopping and food too and many more artists and artisans of some quality than in Spello (which I also love). I lived in Spello for a month and unless I missed something I would not even remotely consider it an artists' colony. I have artist/friends in both towns, but most of the work in both places is very commercial. I hope this does not sound contentious, but I think these descriptions are not quite accurate.
) disagree.
