Hello everyone,

I'm in the beginning planning stages of a 2006 or 2007 trip to Italy. I want to go to the Piemonte region, my grandmother was from there, and am wondering what time of year is the best to go...May/June or Sept/October. Also, what is a good amount of time to spend, 10-14 days? I wouldn't be able to do more than 2 weeks. So far I'm thinking fly into Milan, then to Piemonte (looking at B&B's in the Asti/Alba area), then to Genoa and/or the Italian Riviera. So what would you all advise?

Time of year depends on how much you like truffles.....if you are a fan, late October is the time. Otherwise don't go too early in the Spring which can arrive late in this northern region.

Depending on your interests, you can easily spend two weeks in Piemonte and not run out of things to do. First, you didn't mention Torino in your planning....I would recommend that you spend at least three days in this most fascinating and attractive city. Between Alba and Asti, I prefer Asti (I think I am in the minority) but Le Langhe has a richness of scenery and food and wine. The mountain areas of Piemonte are quite spectacular and you might want to spend a few days near Aosta while you are there. And then there are the lakes....Orta is a gem. If you have time left over, the Italian Riviera west of Genova and the Ligurian hill towns beckon.

Thank you Jim, that's quite a lot to think about already! I've heard there are quite a few wine and cheese festivals in Piemonte in September/October, is this true?

There are lots of festivals in the fall. But as Jim noted tartufi are the thing to go for! We love white truffles and so we usually go to piemonte in the fall for the truffle festival. During October there is a food convention in Alba that is very intereesting to go to if you are foodies. We went to this in 2003 and 2001 and both times it was lots of fun. In 2003 we attended the first Barbaresco festival where they had over 70 different barbarescos for tasting (I even had to skip wine with lunch to make it through the tasting!) and we went to the palio in Alba where they race donkeys. This was the second or third week in Oct. During the same time frame Diano d'Alba had a wine festival and I think Dogliani also had their doclcettos festival. You can check my trip report for more specifics.

Truffles may be the thing to go for, but Piedmont is also known for its wines and cheeses, which hare the best in italy. I would go in October, or even further in the Fall. Maybe it's not as sunny and days are shroter, but the Langhe landscapes are at their best, and the season is just right for the wine and cheese meals (and let's not forget bagna caoda).

I'd read a bit about the festivals in Asti and Alba, but thank you for more inforation on them. I will definitely check out your trip report. What is the weather like in the fall? Is it similar to a New England autumn? I'm from Massachusetts, so that's my fall weather reference!

Any recommendations on places to stay? We'd like to stay in a B&B, I've looked at a couple online, but wuld love to know of any personal recommendations.

Thank you all!

Anne-

Have you looked at the reviews on the Slowtrav site?

Two things to think about. The weather is somewhat better and the daylight is longer in the Spring. May is my favorite month for Italy. You can check out historical weather trends here: http://www.weatherbase.com/weather/city.php3?c=IT&refer=

---Marlene

Is May a crowded time of year to visit? We're selfish, we don't want to share our first trip to beautiful Italy with tons of other travelers!

Another question. How helpful is it to speak some Italian? Right now I don't know the language, but am more than willing to learn. What would people suggest as the best method for learning the language? Darn, where's my Italian grandmother when I need her!

okay, here's another question, this one from my boyfriend. We were lookig at some B&B websites last night and in one picture gallery there was a photo of grapes changing color. He saw that and said When does that happen, I want to go then.

so, when do the grapes change color?

Italy is a crowded destination, and therefore it is crowded all year round. If you want to avoid the bigger crowds it is more improtnat to pick carefully the area to visit than the period of the year. Chianti is always crowded, no matter the period, Langhe are far less crowded all year round. THis does not mean that you will not meet other tourists, it just means that the crowds will be thinner.
Regarding Italian, consider that all Italian students study English at least for a few years, and in touristy areas most people will be able to communicate to a degree with you in English. Learning a few courtesies is a welcome act of kindness which will grant you smiles and sympathy, but there isn't realy a need to become any more fluent in italian than this.
Finally, it dipends on the grapes and on the area: in southern Italy grapes turn ripe by late summer, up here in the north in the fall, but different types of grape get ripe in different periods even in the same area.

If you want to avoid tourists, get a car and a VERY detailed map; then just wander. The guide books will point you to "unspoiled" places - don't believe it. If it's in the guide book, there will be tourists. I was in Genoa in May several years ago and there weren't too many hordes, but it is a city, after all. You might also consider Emilia Romagna - say around Parma or Fidenza. ---Marlene

Alice, do you live in the north of Italy? I ask because you said "up here in the north". As soon as I have a lot of time to sit and read I will check out your blog.

Thank you for the advice you've already given. Is there any general advice you would pass along to first time Italy travelers?

In Piedmont grapes change color in September/October just like Maple leaves.
Harvest for the grapes in also in the same time period with Nebbiolo being harvested last.I posted about an artist who we like very much he has opened a B and B in La Morra L' Atelier the website is in Italian
but the place looks great. RR

Anne, yes I am a Milanese. Watch out, the blog is in my native Italian, though.

Alice, I saw that your blog was in Italian! Alas, I don't speak or read the language, at least not yet.

So as a native Milanese, what would you suggest to the first time traveler as the best things to see and do?

By the way, I noticed the name of your blog was A Typesetters Day...are you a typesetter? I'm a graphic designer!

Anne, here's a B&B recommendation: Cascina Piola, near Asti. We've stayed there twice in the last year, but haven't yet got round to writing a review All organic; super evening meals available; very welcoming. Raffaela speaks good English.

Jonathan

COOL! Almost a colleague! ^____^

What to visit first? I guess I am the most wrong person to ask such a question. I believe there isn't a "perfect" first time itinerary that is valid for everyone. My usual solution in such cases it to get myself a map of the place I am going o visit, pick one area at random and visit that single area. Most people will tell you that if you havn't visited Italy yet, than you should really visit "VeniceFlorenceRome". I still believe that this formula is crap, not just because I don't like Venice and only partially like Florence. Because even so you will not necessarly visit neither what will appeal the most to you nor the best stuff that there's in Italy. The same is true for all the countries in the world: I have been to Greece six times, and got to visit Athens only the fifth time I was there! IMHO, it is better to pick one area and explore that single area in some depth, especially if it's an area that fewer people visit. As you go back, you will not be able to say that you visited "Italy", but you will certainly have become an expert in that single area.

Alice, I agree, that's why we're sort of concentrating on Piemonte, that plus Piemonte is the region of my Italian heritage. We're really not that interested in big cities, we're so much more interested in the natural beauty of the land, and the interesting people and festivals we hope to bump into along the way.

Do you know anything about Villalvernia or Tortona? Those are the two towns my relatives were in, and there still may be some there.

Not much really. Piedmont is an extremely righ region. The most touristed area is probably the Asti/Alba one (Langhe, Monferrato, Roero). it's also a wonderful area with villages, wine, castles, wine, cheese, wine... Did I say anything about the wine? Yet, many other areas of Piedmont are worth a visit. Turin is a wonderful city, small enough to be "overviewed" as a daytrip and extremely rich culturally. The northern, Apls area has some of the best skiing resorts in Italy (Winter Olympics will be held there next year). Than there is the not as high mountainious area of Val di Susa, which is delicious (just in case, a friend of my father has an agritourism there which also produces wonderful bees products and other stuff ). There are fortresses aging from the middle age to the XVIII century. There are the lakes (Maggiore and Orta) and there are the big rice fields in the Novara area (where gorgonzola cheese is also produced 8-9), and much more. It really deserves at least those 14 days.

I couldn't agree more with Alice on this. Several years ago, I did just what you're planning (only my relatives were from Bologna). I recommend picking one or two places where you can spend at least a week. That's what I did on my first trip, and I found more than enough to do. In fact, I returned to the same places another year, and I still haven't "finished" with things to do in those areas!

Once you have your focus, start research (part of the fun of travel IMHO). Google your town and "hike", "walk", "bike", etc. This will point you to the more out of the way places nearby (which you can then google etc.). If possible, get a good detailed map - with ALL the roads, including the "white" (unpaved) ones! Also, do a search for your town/area on Amazon along with your interests (e.g. music, women, art...). Then look for the books in your local library.
---Marlene

Alice, Marleen and Jonathan -
Thank you all for your so helpful replies and links to even more information!

So would everyone agree that driving will be the best transportation for what we are planning? What do we need to know/do to be able to drive in Italy?

Drive until Genova, than trains.

Hi -

You asked about how to learn some Italian for your trip- there have been many discussions of this on the board, and of course, many opinions, but IMHO, the Pimsleur tapes/CDs are a great way to get a base in a fairly short time. And sorry to disagree with Alice -we have found that not everyone in Italy speaks english, especially those over 30 y/o. This is especially true if you venture away from cities and large towns. It is not a huge problem but it is always nice to be able to communicate the basics.

If you decide to drive, there is great info on the main site....driving info

Have a great time!

Kate, I didn't say that everybody speaks it, especially fluently. But everybody still foes through at elast three years of lessons. This doesn't mean that the language is always retained, at least by everyone.