After hours Vatican Tour with Helen Donnegan's Italy with Us
My wife and I are pretty cheap travelers, meaning we really do all we can to stretch our budgets, sometimes to extremes. With that said, there are sometimes when you just have to do something regardless of the cost. Taking the After-hours Vatican Museum tour through Helen Donnegan's Italy With Us group became one of those things.
In December 2006, we did the normal tour. We booked through the Vatican and had a nice time. However, the Museums are some of the world's most visited and being herded through with tens of thousands of others was not exactly the most enjoyable of visits. We are not religious, but we are art and history buffs, so the Vatican Museums are very important to us in that regard.
After our return, last year, we learned of the private after-hours tour and decided that if we could find a way to swing it, on our next Rome trip, that was going to be our big splurge. As it was, we got great air prices over the summer and returned to Rome this past Christmas week, this time with the entire family. Helen Donnegan was one of our first contacts after we booked the trip. It was one of the best things we have done!
Our tour was set for 5pm on the evening of December 27th. As we are walking up to the museum entrance, we are passing the massive flood of people exiting from the normal day's admissions. We had pretty much decided we would not do that again, whether we got the after-hours tour or not.
Helen owns the company and at one time did museum tours. Now, she has a select group of highly skilled guides do the tour for her. In our case, there were probably 25 people for the entire tour. Yes, that means there will only be about 2 dozen tourists, a handful of guards and some Vatican staff during the visit, not the population of a town. This group is then broken into smaller groups matched to your own guide. In our case, there were 6 of us with Christopher Longhurst.
Chris is working on his doctoral dissertation on theology through the Vatican. He has a masters in art history. At the end of the tour I gave him the greatest compliment I could give someone that speaks with others, he is a “story teller”. He weaves a tale, providing massive amounts of detail and information. No question is too off-beat, no detail is too small to ignore.
You enter the museum. It is you, your fellow group members, your guide and a guard. Now the fun begins. You wander through the museum, you can spend time inspecting, looking, enjoying, contemplating, wondering. You see details you never thought possible. Chris fills you with information in a way that you find captivating. No overwhelming crowds, no low rumble of noise, no herding, sweating or swearing.
From last year I have a video of the map room. Jam packed with people, pushing, shoving, like a human wave. This year, my video camera was placed on the floor at one end. The frame goes to the other end, 450 feet away. The only other person is the cleaning lady. The only sound is that of her mop on the floor.
In the tapestry room you have the time to view the optical illusions over and over. Seeing details you would have never guessed even existed in the normal tour. You aren't being rushed, you aren't being trampled, you don't feel like cattle going to slaughter. It is civilized.
Finally, we end up in the Sistine Chapel. The last time it was wall-to-wall people. Guards clapping hands, shusshing “NO TALKING, NO PICTURES”. This time, just a couple of dozen of us, the guards standing away from the small groups, while Chris weaves his tale of the chapel, the Pope and Michelangelo. You can view the most minute of details, without feeling like you are part of some weird mob. It is serene and relaxing. It is quiet and fulfilling.
There is no real rush, but after almost an hour, the guard does finally come over and politely tells us we should have left 25 minutes earlier.
Chris gathers us up and we slowly move out. But he continues to point out things even as we are leaving.
The cost of the tour is 250 euros per person. I've read where some have said no tour is worth that kind of money. I beg to differ. Not only was it worth it, I would do it again without a question, it was perhaps the best value I have gotten on any vacation. People think nothing of dropping 100 euros on a meal that is soon gone and forgotten. For just a bit more, you can have an experience and memories that you will talk about for the rest of your life.
Oh, and how good was it? My 20 year old college student daughter saved her money all semester so she could also do the tour. She said it was worth every penny.
Christopher also does tours of St. Peter's and other places on his own during normal hours. I have no idea what he charges, but he is worth it. You can reach him at...
The cost of the tour is 250 euros per person. I've read where some have said no tour is worth that kind of money.
I don't know. My plane ticket to Italy cost only $633 (422 euros), less than what it cost 2 people to take this tour. maybe once I stop paying college tuitions, I could consider it.
For 500 euros ($750), My daughter and I would want to see the inside of every locked house in Pompeii.
Posts: 5040 | Location: St Paul, MN | Registered: 10 February 2006
I'm so delighted to hear that you loved this tour! I do my best to avoid the crowds and wall-to-wall people, so I'm very interested in Helen's tours.
I was going to take her after hours tour last fall, when we were in Rome, but the days we were there, Helen had no tours arranged. So, it is at the top of my list for the next time I'm in Rome. I also booked a Vatican tour with Tony's 3 Millenia Tours last fall, but due to a mis-communication with my grandson, we 'lost' each other, then missed the tour!
I booked that tour because of all of the great reviews about Tony's company here on Slowtrav and because I thought it would give us a good beginning understanding of the Vatican, so when we could take one of the after hours tours, we'd know a little bit about it.
Thanks for the info and validation.
“The worst thing about being a tourist is having other tourists recognize you as a tourist.” ~ Russell Baker Brenda
Posts: 4873 | Location: Fox Creek, AB...back from exile and fully-participating in the forums again! | Registered: 26 October 2003
I would normally not spend that much money on a tour (actually I never spend ANY money on a tour) - but this experience does sound pretty incredible! The thought of being in the Sistine chapel at night, almost alone.... that is pretty cool.
Hi Shannon, Last summer Context Rome had an after hour tour with Liz Lev. I couldn't fit it into my schedule. I would do an after hour tour in a heartbeat, even if it meant giving away my first born. So, anyone want my first born?
Shannon, I think there are a couple of other agencies or tour guides that I found when I was looking for an after hours tour last fall, but after being in contact with Helen and a couple of other people, I felt like her arrangements were the best of the bunch.
Helen's price was the most affordable of the lot, as some of the other tours' costs were out of this world!
Wish Tony offered this tour...I'd book with his company in a Philly heartbeat.
"Travelling is like flirting with life. It's like saying, 'I would stay and love you, but I have to go; this is my station.'" ~ Lisa St. Aubin de Terán Brenda
Posts: 4873 | Location: Fox Creek, AB...back from exile and fully-participating in the forums again! | Registered: 26 October 2003
Seth Zurer's company (well, I don't think he owns it but works for them anyway), Select Italy, offers one too: Sistene Chapel - Private Visit.
I'm glad this was brought up - I need to talk to Chris to see if he wants to do it next fall. It will be worth rolling all the coins in the jars around the house for this.
As far as doing "tours", normally the only time we will do one is if it gets us past a line or for something that can only be done on a tour. Examples would be doing the normal Vatican sponsored tour of the museums, to by-pass the lines at a charge of only 10 euros extra or the Scavi tour at St. Peters or the recent Domus Aurea reconstruction tour.
Helen's is the cream of the crop as far as specialty tours goes, in my opinion. There are others, during our tour a well known author was having a private one-on-one tour done by his own guide. In addition, you can actually rent the Sistine Chapel for a private function. I believe the cost is about $7,000 for 2 hours.
Whenever we get back to Rome for an extended period of time we will be doing a tour like this. The joy of seeing the treasures of the vatican without the jostling and distraction of the crowds would be worth it. We generally allow ourselves one 'splurge' on a trip, this spring it is ballooning in Tuscany.
Jerry
The traveler sees what he sees. The tourist sees what he has come to see. ~G.K. Chesterton
I was on Helen's very first after-hours tour in March 2006, and it was absolutely one of the highlights of the trip. The cost was 150E then, there were 12 of us on the tour. It was amazing!! It did feel rushed, but only because 2 hours is so little time, but not at all crowded. Our guide was wonderful, and to really be able to see the Sistine Chapel without a crowd was spectacular.
It is a lot of money, but we decided to cut back on other things and splurge on this. I generally travel fairly cheaply, so an occasional splurge is affordable.
I highly recommend this tour for anyone who can squeeze it into their budget!
Anne
Posts: 704 | Location: Louisiana | Registered: 02 May 2005
I also found it extraordinary and exceptional and Helen was charming, funny and very knowledgable. She was kind enough to refund one ticket when my daughter ended up not being able to go.
I feel it was worth the price just to be able to see the Sistine with only a dozen or so more people.
I have booked a tour in March for my son and his fiancee on their honeymoon...my husband frankly thinks it's nuts to spend so much for a tour because he thinks the kids might not "appreciate" it that much
But if I had what might be one shot to see the Sistine Chapel, this would be the way I would want it to be--I told him I would pay for it out of my own money (and I will) but I really couldn't afford the $7000 fee for a true private tour. I know having a honeymoon in Rome is pretty special anyway, but since they can't have Pompeii all to themselves, this seemed the next best thing.
But when you think what some people (not us) pay for a wedding--that 7000 not such a bad price for a 2 hour rental...
Another big 'thumbs up' for Helen and her organizational skills. I've been to the Vatican museum 5 or 6 times with the crowds - which I don't mind. But when it got difficult to be assured of even gaining entry we treated the (fully grown) kids and ourselves to this 'private tour' - it really was a thrill to have had the chapel essentially to ourselves for a good half hour - one could even lie down on the benches (or - I admit it- the floor) and gaze upward to your heart's content. My only frustration was that the Laocoon is not included on the possible itineraries. Good job, Helen.
Posts: 166 | Location: Chicago | Registered: 06 September 2002
One question: how in the world do you see the Vatican museums in 2 hours only? Including the Sistine?? I was there on January 8 for 4 hours, and I didn't even see it all! Plus, the crowds were very manageable.
Also, I'd love to see that video of the map room!
Vicky
Posts: 561 | Location: Maryland | Registered: 04 March 2007
Vicky, you don't see it all, obviously. Just like the regular tours, you move quickly through the rooms and halls between the entrance and the Sistine Chapel, and spend most of your time there.
IMHO it is, as Kim said, worth saving and rolling up your loose change for a year or two. It was one of the two most memorable art experiences of my life, the other being my first up close view of Bernini's work at the Borghese, on a day when it was remarkably uncrowded.
ellen
Posts: 4324 | Location: mahwah, new jersey, usa | Registered: 10 December 2003
All this is making me drool...but that aside, I have to question the idea of the "rental" of the Sistine Chapel. It is first and foremost a church and it sounds dubious that they'd rent it like some sort of function room. Does anyone have any actual documentation of this? Such as a mention on the Vatican website?
Posts: 579 | Location: Boston MA | Registered: 19 December 2006
I wonder if since the tour is only two hours or so, if they should try to get tickets and just go through in the afternoon on their on one day when the crowds might not be too bad...
and Helen said that taking photos depended on the guard with the tour--also had email contact with someone who took the tour and she said taking them with available light instead of flash was ok... so think there are lots of variables with this...
Can one get to see the Raphael Rooms and the Nicoline Chapel?
The Raphael rooms definitely....but the main event is the Sistine Chapel. You sort of rush through the rest of the rooms......I wanted to stay longer in the map gallery but we had to push on.
I have had email exchange with someone from the TA Rome boards who took this after-hours tour via Helen--she said that their group contained initially about a dozen people with different mother tongues--so they had several guides--the group was split into smaller groups and they each went a different way. Her guide was amenable to adjusting time in rooms depending on their questions--while the time anyone spends there is probably never long enough--she said that they would walk quickly between rooms and then slow down in the room...if that makes sense...
and regarding the photos--I think that depends on the guard with the group...Helen herself did not give a blanket ok for photos when I asked...
and regarding the photos--I think that depends on the guard with the group...
Yes, I think that is the case.
When I was on the tour in October, people took photos in the galleries en route to the Sistine Chapel, but before we went in to the chapel, our guide asked us not to take photos until she asked for permission. She said they usually say yes, but they are more likely to allow it if you ask first. They did specify "no flash".
Posts: 808 | Location: Toronto | Registered: 18 February 2006
Originally posted by DaveB ESL: After hours Vatican Tour with Helen Donnegan's Italy with Us
This year, my video camera was placed on the floor at one end. The frame goes to the other end, 450 feet away. The only other person is the cleaning lady. The only sound is that of her mop on the floor.
ROFLMAO!!! I have exactly the same picture!! I too was on the first tour that Helen did. It was truly a once in a lifetime experience.
Particularly for someone in a wheelchair this is the ultimate way to see the Vatican. I was stepped on, tripped over and fallen on in the Raphael rooms. The crowds meant that the only things I saw were either the murals from about 6 feet up on the wall or the lower 1/2 from about 6 inches away. Going into the Sistine it is a major production with them stopping the traffic in and out of the chapel while they operate the lift.
If you travel with anyone who has health or mobility issues this is absolutely the only way to see the museums. Every day the ambulances line up outside the museums and every day they cart away people who have fallen and broken limbs, had heart attacks, strokes, etc.. People are literally dying to get in.
Yes the tour is pricey. Is it worth it? Like so much involved with travel it involves your priorities. A year ago or so there was a thread on the "everything else" board about how people afford travel. Most of us give up something to be able to take these trips. For the members here travel is what our priority is. For other people it's driving a new Hummer and staying home. For me it is being a single car family, driving a 5 year old vehicle with 165,000 miles and giving up eating out unless it is with a coupon.
The 400 euro that this tour cost us (2006 pricing) was a major expense for us. But one I will gladly pay next trip to Italy. Once you have done this tour you really can't go back.
As for paying $7000 and booking the Sistine? This is the amount Helen pays for her tours every time she goes. Sometimes she does well charging 250 a head if she has more than 28 people other times she takes a bath financially. If you wanted to rent the Sistine for say a wedding I imagine that the procedure would be you would have everyone escorted directly to the chapel, the ceremony would be performed and then you would probably be directly escorted back out. The big question is whether they would allow photography (even with just ambient lighting). It is an intriguing concept though.
Here is the 90 second online video I did. Shows the normal hours map room (2006) and the after-hours map room (2007). The funny part of the 2006 version is my wife and I discussing how to find each other if we get separated.
As to the rental cost of the Sistine. I found it on the Vatican website. I'll see if I can find the actual page again, I know it wasn't easy to locate the first time I did it.
As to the type of camera...I have an old Sony TRV900 that I just had rebuilt last year. It is a 3CCD unit that is about 9 years old, but still does pretty darn good. Sorry about the quality on the web, but you have to lower quality to allow for streaming.
I didn't have problem with the quality--thought it was very good considering the ambient lighting available--that is got good color ... thanks for sharing it...
I planned a two week trip to Rome last October/November around an after hours Vatican Museum tour offered by Context Rome.There were only ten of us with three guides.I was with Liz Lev and she was brilliant.I'm not sure she actually took a breath for two hours.I usually think museum tour guides keep us from experiencing/thinking about/feeling the art for ourselves and almost always wander away from any group but this was simply not the case.It was a wonderful experience.I was traveling by myself and offset the price by staying in a cheap hotel by the train station.The time I spent in Rome was so vivid and so intense that at times I expect to step outside my house into Rome instead of San Francisco.
Posts: 27 | Location: San Francisco,CA | Registered: 28 December 2004
Originally posted by Jaele: .The time I spent in Rome was so vivid and so intense that at times I expect to step outside my house into Rome instead of San Francisco.
And I still wake up in the middle of the night hearing vespas.
And perhaps those who have visited the Sistine Chapel after hours dream of Vespers too!
OK now you've given me an idea. Next trip I'm going to test the acoustics. Unless Helen tapes my mouth shut (probably a good thing). Magnificat anima dei
Topic Closed
I would do an after hour tour in a heartbeat, even if it meant giving away my first born. So, anyone want my first born? 
Magnificat anima dei 
