I will be going to Amalfi Coast after 6 days in Rome this May (after May 20). I am pretty sure we will take a train or a bus as from all I've read on this site and others, cars are difficult to have and park, etc. there. So - we will either rent a place or stay in a hotel. I really like the idea of Positano. It looks so beautiful and relaxing after tramping about Rome, I think it will be a perfect balance. I know about the stairs and the climbing, but that is ok. If you have stayed in Positano, can you offer any advice - places to stay, things to do, (beside eating, drinking wine with beautiful views etc which is why I am attracted to this place in the first place). Oh my, just the thought of a glass of wine on one of those gorgeous terraces overlooking the ocean -
So, seriously - I'd like to stay in the town proper so that we can get groceries, etc. go out for dinner, lunch, etc. without having to take buses everywhere. I want to be able to walk to a little village - and have things to do that are interesting. I do not like too many touristy t-shirt shops, if you know what I mean - but I do like poking around in neighborhood places. Going to the beach sounds like fun - not sure if it will be all that warm in late May but do not need to necessarily go swimming. Is Positano the place for me or should I go to maybe another village on the Amalfi coast?? Is it very noisy at night?? (might be ok, but want to know) Thanks again - JMarie
Posts: 76 | Location: na | Registered: 27 October 2008
I have been to the Amalfi coast several times, most recently last month. I enjoy all the towns and find them all beautiful. That said - the center of Positano is filled with touristy type shops. It would not be my first choice even though the views are spectacular. There have been many discussions on this board regarding the "best" town. Everyone has their favorite. My favorites are Amalfi, Atrani and Ravello. Amalfi also has the touristy shops but not as much of this as Positano, and has a real town feel. Atrani has no tourist shops. Also the bus connections are much better in Amalfi compared with Positano. Bus connections from Ravello are poor, but Ravello is possibly the most beautiful area.We stayed at the apartment belonging to Residenza del Duca in Amalfi and it was a great rental www.residencedelduca.it
Posts: 96 | Location: New York | Registered: 26 January 2005
Amalfi is my least favourite spot on the Amalfi coast. IMO it is much more touristy than Positano, noisy, tacky and expensive. I always feel trapped after just a little while there.
hmmm a friend who just returned from Positano for three weeks raved about it - so what am I missing here - it is tacky? can you be a bit more descriptive??? I have not yet made formal plans and can be convinced to go elsewhere - want to be in a beautiful place with an ocean view - terrace, small shops, piazza, local friendly people - not positano???
Posts: 76 | Location: na | Registered: 27 October 2008
IMO it is much more touristy than Positano, noisy, tacky and expensive. I always feel trapped after just a little while there.
I also dislike Amalfi very much and absolutely love Positano. We have stayed there three times and recently, I find myself dreaming about those views. It can get busy during the day because of day trippers and cruise ship groups, but late afternoon and evenings are quiet and fun. The food is great and I wouldn't stay anywhere else on the Amalfi Coast. Even with tourist, this little town is spectacular.
Can you give us an idea of your price range? There are great accommodations in Positano, but the prices are all over the place. We have been fortunate enough to stay at Le Sirenuse in the past, but as we settle into full retirement, we may move to the hotel next door.
IMO it is much more touristy than Positano, noisy, tacky and expensive. I always feel trapped after just a little while there.
I also dislike Amalfi very much and absolutely love Positano. We have stayed there three times and recently, I find myself dreaming about those views. It can get busy during the day because of day trippers and cruise ship groups, but late afternoon and evenings are quiet and fun. The food is great and I wouldn't stay anywhere else on the Amalfi Coast. Even with tourist, this little town is spectacular.
Can you give us an idea of your price range? There are great accommodations in Positano, but the prices are all over the place. We have been fortunate enough to stay at Le Sirenuse in the past, but as we settle into full retirement, we may move to the hotel next door.
yes - want to stay in the $200-300 per night range. I hear that the Best Western Hotel Positea is pretty nice - want to keep this part of the trip to about $2000-$2500 for five nights - including food - and day trips etc. is this possible?
I would recommend Buca di Bacco. The views are beautiful, the breakfast is our favorite in Italy. It is right on the beach and the staff is delightful. We enjoyed our trip with Salvatore to Capri and an evening at one of the restaurants high on the hill is a dinner we will remember forever(they even send a car for you). Dinner at Max is probably one of the highlights of our three trips to Positano. It is truly a special place.
In early Oct. of this year we (2 couples) spent 5 days on the Amalfi Coast.
We based in Sorrento b/c it had excellent train, boat & bus connections to Pompeii and all the Amalfi coastal towns.
We visited Positano on one day, Amalfi & Ravello another day, Pompeii still another day ... and then spent the rest of our time right in Sorrento.
We found Sorrento, Positano & Amalfi to all be pretty touristy in the main areas... but we absolutely LOVED Ravello!
If you are looking to relax and just veg out in a small town w/ fabulous views and not too touristy... my pick would definitely be Ravello.
...But, if you want to explore the other towns from your base, I think Ravello would be a little too out of the way to make that easy to do.
We spent more time in Sorrento, and therefore were able to experience areas outside of the very touristy center of town ... we actually had the opportunity to attend a sagra in a tiny little village just on the outskirts of Sorrento ... and that was a real highlight of our Amalfi Coast visit.
Being that we only did day trips to Positano & Amalfi ... we really did not have the time to experience much more than the touristy areas ...so that colored our opinion of those towns... I think that was what Ian was trying to say. To really experience any of the Amalfi towns, you really must stay there and explore all that it has to offer.
I know several people who absolutely loved Positano... but they actually based there and really explored all that it had to offer ... not just what one would see in 5 or 6 hours during the day. I am sure that can also be said of Amalfi ...
We enjoyed our visit to the Amalfi Coast and thought it was a great place for sunbathing on the beach and relaxing... but we enjoyed Tuscany, Umbria & Rome more. We found the Amalfi Coast towns all to be pretty similar ... and the centers were really too, too touristy... also, the food & wine were not nearly as good... and it was much more expensive than Tuscany, Umbria or Rome.
I am sure you will enjoy whichever town you choose... because just being in Italy is magical no matter where you are.
Enjoy the planning ... it is almost as much fun as the actual visit ...
Karen
Posts: 360 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 26 January 2005
We stayed a week in Positano in April, '06. Rented an apartment in the heart of the village -- took day trips to Amalfi and Capri but really enjoyed staying in Positano so much. (Buses and boats were easy btw). It's hard to make up your mind based on the experiences of others -- I remember almost being swayed to stay in another town due to various comments but, in the end, it really depends on what you're dreaming of. Having seen Positano so frequently in movies and in photographs, I dreamed of walking up every day to that beautiful scenery. The lemons were everywhere, the main footpath dripping in wisteria blooms and the beach was warm enough to lay out (though not for swimming). Of course, Sorrento and Amalfi have similar offerings but for us, the scenery of Positano fulfilled all dreams. Have a wonderful time. One last thought, yes the train/smaller train/bus method from Rome to Positano is a bit of a pain (especially that smaller train from Naples to Sorrento) you do not need or want a car on the Amalfi coast...recommend you travel by boat to the other villages when at all possible, the best views of this coast are from the water. Have fun!
I think for a first-timer to the Amalfi Coast that Positano is a winner. I have taken people there for their first time and seen their reactions. They're stunned. When we go to Amalfi, they think it's cute but they're not stunned. Positano makes a great impression for a first time visit to that coast. Who cares if the shops are touristy! It is the views and the colors and the setting that make the place so special.
Do a day trip to Ravello (and its worth going into the Villa Cimbrone gardens) and do a day trip to Capri. Stay in Positano.
We spent five days in Positano and two nights in Capri about three years ago. We stayed at Villa La Tartana in Positano. Nice place. I liked Amalfi. Tacky is not a word I would have even thought of in describing Amalfi. Ravello was beautiful and a great day trip, too.
Great suggestions from all of you. Thank you. I think that Sita 3 kind of summed up my thinking about Positano. I will plan to go ahead and book the trip there. I have been reading the old posts on the site regarding the best way to get there from Rome. I think that I have convinced my husband that driving a rental is not a good idea. And taking hours on buses and trains is not an appealing thought either. So now down to two choices. 1) train from Rome to Naples and then hiring a driver (any good suggestions for a driver?) 2) train from Rome to Naples and then the ferry to Positano. Problem is that my husband gets sea sick very easily - can anyone describe the ferry experience for me?? (rocky waters? or smooth ride?)
I might turn this into a new thread if I don't get responses from this one.
After Thanksgiving break I plan to visit a well recommended travel agent to book flights and hotel (right now I am thinking that after a week in a vacation rental, Colosseum 1, in Rome, that a hotel will be a good choice. Thinking of the Hotel Positea (Best Western). Seems to be pretty reasonable rates and has good reviews.
After all of this is accomplished, I will then focus on the details of the trip.
While in Positano will want to see Capri. But would like to see Pompeii ruins. Other than that, just want to hang out in the town to try to get a feel for it beyond the tourist experience. I will be there in late May. Thinking that it will be pretty good weather - maybe days on the beach will work, with long lunches and perhaps the late afternoons lazing around the balcony with my wine - then a dinner, followed by a stroll around the town - and then more time on the balcony -
Have learned that the buses up and down the "hill" to the beach are pretty good. So, will probably walk to the beach and take the bus back up.
Any other ideas or suggestions would be great. Also, I have read some about great restaurants, but I think that maybe one "special" dinner would do it, and the rest of the dinners will probably be as cheap as possible.
I am really looking forward to this trip.
Thank you again. jmarie
Posts: 76 | Location: na | Registered: 27 October 2008
Originally posted by JMarie: Ian I am a bit confused by your reply -can you be a bit more specific????
JMarie I'm not sure what you're looking for in terms of specifics, but here goes:
In Amalfi, there are a few hidden gems. Cantina San Nicola wine bar was one of these - up some steep steps that most tourists wouldn't notice. Inside an old monastery was an atmospheric wine bar with very good wines and that typical Enoteca skill in putting together light meals with plenty of flavour. It's since changed to be a restaurant and I don't know the new name, but I'm told it's a very good restaurant.
The walks to & from Amalfi are well worth investigating. From the short but energetic hop over to Atrani, to the quiet solitude of the valley of the mills walk.
This and other aspects would be missed in a half day trip - if one only scratches the surface sometimes the experience feels touristy and tacky, yet spend a few days somewhere and you see genuinely interesting aspects that reward exploration.
Does that help?
regards
Ian
Drink coffee, do stupid things faster
Posts: 306 | Location: UK | Registered: 20 September 2008
We spent 3 days in Positano at the end of our 3 week 25th anniversary trip in May 2007. It was the perfect end to a busy holiday. We stayed at Albergo California (www.hotelcaliforniapositano.com). I think we paid about 170 euros per night for a large room with jacuzzi tub and our own terrace overlooking the town and sea below. We were within walking distance of everything, went to the beach (water was cold but it was so nice to just lay on the beach and relax after galivanting all over Paris, Tuscany, and Rome). We had one of our more spectacular meals of our whole trip at a little restaurant high in the hills that our hostess at the hotel,Maria, arranged for us.
You can read more details in my trip report (link from this post). In short, we absolutely loved Positano and would recommend it and the hotel without reservations.
Have fun!
JO
Oops, forgot to add, we hired a driver to drive us from the train station to the hotel and back to the Naples airport. We dealt with Johnny Maresca's limousine service and were very happy with the service. We paid 80 euros each way, the driver was waiting for us at the Naples train station, took care of our bags, stopped along the beautiful Amalfi coast highway several times so we could take pictures, and gave us lots of great info and history during the drive. This is some of the best money we spent during our trip, it was a totally stress free way to get to Positano and back.
Originally posted by JMarie: Ian I am a bit confused by your reply -can you be a bit more specific????
JMarie I'm not sure what you're looking for in terms of specifics, but here goes:
In Amalfi, there are a few hidden gems. Cantina San Nicola wine bar was one of these - up some steep steps that most tourists wouldn't notice. Inside an old monastery was an atmospheric wine bar with very good wines and that typical Enoteca skill in putting together light meals with plenty of flavour. It's since changed to be a restaurant and I don't know the new name, but I'm told it's a very good restaurant.
The walks to & from Amalfi are well worth investigating. From the short but energetic hop over to Atrani, to the quiet solitude of the valley of the mills walk.
This and other aspects would be missed in a half day trip - if one only scratches the surface sometimes the experience feels touristy and tacky, yet spend a few days somewhere and you see genuinely interesting aspects that reward exploration.
Does that help?
regards
Ian
Yes. Thank you, Ian.
Posts: 76 | Location: na | Registered: 27 October 2008
Originally posted by Jo&Den: We spent 3 days in Positano at the end of our 3 week 25th anniversary trip in May 2007. It was the perfect end to a busy holiday. We stayed at Albergo California (www.hotelcaliforniapositano.com). I think we paid about 170 euros per night for a large room with jacuzzi tub and our own terrace overlooking the town and sea below. We were within walking distance of everything, went to the beach (water was cold but it was so nice to just lay on the beach and relax after galivanting all over Paris, Tuscany, and Rome). We had one of our more spectacular meals of our whole trip at a little restaurant high in the hills that our hostess at the hotel,Maria, arranged for us.
You can read more details in my trip report (link from this post). In short, we absolutely loved Positano and would recommend it and the hotel without reservations.
Have fun!
JO
Oops, forgot to add, we hired a driver to drive us from the train station to the hotel and back to the Naples airport. We dealt with Johnny Maresca's limousine service and were very happy with the service. We paid 80 euros each way, the driver was waiting for us at the Naples train station, took care of our bags, stopped along the beautiful Amalfi coast highway several times so we could take pictures, and gave us lots of great info and history during the drive. This is some of the best money we spent during our trip, it was a totally stress free way to get to Positano and back.
Thank you Jo. I will check out your trip report. I think you may have convinced me to hire a driver. Anyone out there vote for the ferry?
Posts: 76 | Location: na | Registered: 27 October 2008
Take the train from Rome to Naples, then go with a driver to Positano. We did this three years ago. A driver will cost about 100 euro. Our hotel, Villa La Tartana, made arrangements for the driver. I can dig around for his card, if you need more information. BTW, Hotel California was mentioned earlier. I did not stay there, but toured the facility when we were there and it is definitely worth consideration.
After five days in Positano, we took the ferry to Capri and stayed for two nights. Then, ferry to Naples, taxi to train station for three days in Rome. I wouln't change a thing.
Originally posted by CaWino: Take the train from Rome to Naples, then go with a driver to Positano. We did this three years ago. A driver will cost about 100 euro. Our hotel, Villa La Tartana, made arrangements for the driver. I can dig around for his card, if you need more information. BTW, Hotel California was mentioned earlier. I did not stay there, but toured the facility when we were there and it is definitely worth consideration.
After five days in Positano, we took the ferry to Capri and stayed for two nights. Then, ferry to Naples, taxi to train station for three days in Rome. I wouln't change a thing.
CaWino (hmmm where did that name come from?) Thanks for the tips. We will be coming to Positano after 6 days in a vacation rental in Rome. We will probably be in Positano also for 5-6 days and then home. Capri sounds like fun. Could probably squeeze that in after Positano ? Did you stay in a hotel in Capri that you recommend? Thanks again JMarie
Posts: 76 | Location: na | Registered: 27 October 2008
JMarie, I am sure you will love Positano. And whatever you plan will work out great for you. But just to add in my two cents here, we visited Positano for three days driving from Rome(which was much easier than what we have expected) and stayed at a B&B called Holiday House Gilda, you can check my review on it. It is not in town, it is a little up the hill, but had great view(see photo) with our own terrace and very clean and nice accomodation. It also has access to a private beach,which was less crowded than the main beach. We loved this place mainly because of the view of Positano and it was very quiet there. We walked to town and back to our room, but there is a bus that one can use to get down to town.
Oh and I forgot to mention, we took a day trip to Capri with one of the boat tour companies, I forget which one, we enjoyed it a lot, but you don't have much time in Capri, I think like four hours. You spend most of the time on the boat and you get to visit the grottos a nd hear fun stories from the captain.
First, my handle: CaWino= California Wino. I live in California and love wine, particularly reds.
Yes, you can squeeze in Capri after a stay Positano. I recommend at least one night in Capri and then ferry to Naples + train to Rome. As far as hotel in Capri, we stayed in La Tosca which was a very nice budget hotel with a terrace view.
Anacapri was very nice, too. Be sure an take the ski lift to the top for one of the most fantastic views. The island boat tour that includes the Blue Grotto is a good value as opposed to just Blue Grotto tour. One of our most memorable times was just an evening at the Piazzetta in Capri, with a few Bellini's and people watching.
I vote for Amalfi and the southern towns as well. The walk/hike along the water cliffs to Arani is not far and the hike to Ravello is doable as well. The views are beautiful of course. Positano feels closed in to me...I guess because of the tightly packed walkways on the hillside. Whatever you decide, you'll enjoy the Amalfi coast. And you're right about the bus ride...I think you'll know to sit on the right side of the bus heading south..so you'll have the best (and scariest!) views. It's breathtaking.
We have been to the Amalfi Coast in 2004 & 2008 We based in Sorrento & Positano - we prefer Positano. You can day trip to Capri by Ferry, to Revello and AMalfi by bus and Ferry and also take the bus & train to Pompeii - which were our day trips. BTW the town of Amalfi which you will travel thru to get to Ravello was a pleasant surprise. Amalfi does not get the pub that Sorrento and Capri get but it is typical of the coastal towns without getting overun with us tourists. We stayed at Tavolozza a B&B in POsitano you can search and read the reviews on Trip Advisor. They do not have their own website. It is a B&B with a good location a balcony overlooking Santa Maria Assunta Church and the water and it is very reasonably priced compared to other lodging in the area. We will hopefully get our trip report out in the near future. In any event consider Da Constantino, and La Cambusa for ristorantes in Positano.
Best Bob
Posts: 115 | Location: boston, usa | Registered: 19 May 2005
Problem is that my husband gets sea sick very easily - can anyone describe the ferry experience for me?? (rocky waters? or smooth ride?)
I get seasick very easily also, but I have not had any troulbe with ferries and Hydrofoils in the Bay of Naples. I have taken boats fronm Sorrento to Capri and back, Sorrento to Naples and back, Naples to Ischia and back, and Naples to Capri and back.
Originally posted by CaWino: I get seasick, too, but never had a problem with the short ferry rides.
Thanks! My husband is thinking that he will be ok on the ferries and hydrofoil - Re a suggestion to go to Capri at the end of our trip for a night and then ferry it to Naples for our flight home. pros and cons are appreciated - I kind of like the idea.
Posts: 76 | Location: na | Registered: 27 October 2008
Originally posted by CaWino: I get seasick, too, but never had a problem with the short ferry rides.
Thanks! My husband is thinking that he will be ok on the ferries and hydrofoil - Re a suggestion to go to Capri at the end of our trip for a night and then ferry it to Naples for our flight home. pros and cons are appreciated - I kind of like the idea.
Not getting a response re the pros and cons of the suggestion above - (re last night in Capri) does anyone have another suggestion - ? perhaps going back towards Naples and then staying for a night or two in a town closer to the airport - (but not in Naples proper) - does not have to be a coastal town - a small town where I can just hang out and not visit anything remotely touristy. friendly people, pretty view, ???
Posts: 76 | Location: na | Registered: 27 October 2008
Don't miss Capri. It's magical. Many just daytrip, but spending the night (we spent two nights)gives a little more time. Go to AnaCapri and take the chairlift to the top for a fantastic view. There is a restaurant there too. Take a tour of the island that include Blue Grotto. Do some people watching with an evening cocktail at the Piazetta.
P.S., I made the original suggestion to go to Capri.
Originally posted by CaWino: Take the train from Rome to Naples, then go with a driver to Positano. We did this three years ago. A driver will cost about 100 euro. Our hotel, Villa La Tartana, made arrangements for the driver. I can dig around for his card, if you need more information. BTW, Hotel California was mentioned earlier. I did not stay there, but toured the facility when we were there and it is definitely worth consideration.
After five days in Positano, we took the ferry to Capri and stayed for two nights. Then, ferry to Naples, taxi to train station for three days in Rome. I wouln't change a thing.
CaWino (hmmm where did that name come from?) Thanks for the tips. We will be coming to Positano after 6 days in a vacation rental in Rome. We will probably be in Positano also for 5-6 days and then home. Capri sounds like fun. Could probably squeeze that in after Positano ? Did you stay in a hotel in Capri that you recommend? Thanks again JMarie
I'm looking at doing the same. Flying in and out of Rome the last week of March, leaving the second Friday morning.
I have the same questions about getting from Rome to whichever base in the AC I would use.
My question though is, are cars completely out of the question? If I'm going to have to spend 100 euros from Naples train station to Positano, I could also rent a car for that price, probably drive from Rome to the AC, instead of taking various trains.
I'd imagine arriving and leaving with luggage would be difficult on trains, ferries and especially regular buses?
Beyond that, are the SITA buses really going to get you to all the towns, especially as far as Ravello? Are the ferries and hydrofoils that much faster? How much do they run and do they only dock at the bigger towns?
Also would be interested in spending some time in Naples but it sounds like it's too far for a day trip if you stay somewhere like Positano?
Posts: 201 | Location: West Coast | Registered: 17 April 2008
Originally posted by wco811: I'm looking at doing the same. Flying in and out of Rome the last week of March, leaving the second Friday morning.
I have the same questions about getting from Rome to whichever base in the AC I would use.
Three main options (but variants can be extrapolated) 1. Train or flight to Naples, then bus from either airport to Sorrento, or from central Naples along the Amalfi coast to Amalfi itself
2. Train or flight to Naples, then taxi to destination (look at ~ €80-100 one way and probably easiest to get the place you're ataying on AC coast to book, as they can also give clear directions to the driver)
3. Train through to Salerno, followed by bus or taxi up the coast. Probably only makes sense for towns south of Amalfi.
quote:
Originally posted by wco811: My question though is, are cars completely out of the question? If I'm going to have to spend 100 euros from Naples train station to Positano, I could also rent a car for that price, probably drive from Rome to the AC, instead of taking various trains.
Not completely, but driving around Rome and Naples is an experience many would hate. Italian driving in general I find very skillful, but on busy roads, it's very assertive indeed. I've seen someone stop on a junction in Naples and become an instant traffic roundabout, unable to move in any direction. Add in tolls, petrol(gas), parking and costs mount. Rail tickets are very cheap in Italy - check www.trenitalia.com for prices/timings. 1st class Eurostar is really enjoyable as well.
Once you get to the Amalfi coast, it's really not set up for driving. Ironic, that one of the great drives, the coast itself, regularly hits gridlock and frustration. Hopping quickly out of the way (including reversing) to allow buses through, is one of the regular hazards. Parking can be a nightmare, expensive at best, impossible at worst. That said, if you are keen to drive, March should avoid many of the problems of high season traffic.
quote:
Originally posted by wco811: I'd imagine arriving and leaving with luggage would be difficult on trains, ferries and especially regular buses?
Difficult, yes. Not impossible. As you say, trains better than buses. If you don't travel light, then look at a taxi as the option to make life easier. We travel with at most 20-22kgs each and this is manageable but moderately hard work. Typically split 14-15kg in good rucksacks and 5-8kg in a small rucksack or holdall. If you're planning on over 25kg in total, then it really does become a challenge on buses. Ferries are generally better than buses, as there's just more space. There can be a crush to get on/off, so worth working around this (i.e. either aim to be 1st or last off).
quote:
Originally posted by wco811: Beyond that, are the SITA buses really going to get you to all the towns, especially as far as Ravello? Are the ferries and hydrofoils that much faster? How much do they run and do they only dock at the bigger towns?
Also would be interested in spending some time in Naples but it sounds like it's too far for a day trip if you stay somewhere like Positano?
Yes, the SITA buses run to all the towns/villages... Ravello, Scala, Atrani, Pogerola, Furore, Minori, Maiori, etc. The Ravello bus covers Scala and Ravello and is a smaller bus (due to the tightly twisting roads). Often full in summer, but often an additional bus appears in a few minutes to take the remainder.
I wouldn't say the ferries were faster, but they are enjoyable and offer great views of the coast (which compare/contrast with the land-based views). Often good to go on bus one way and boat the other. Some places aren't accessible by boat (Ravello, Atrani, Scala, etc. being inland, too small or lacking a harbour), whilst Capri is only accessible by boat. I'd recommend ensuring one boat journey into Positano as it really shows the place off well. Ferries are less frequent at that time of year, but I don't have details of how less.
Naples as a day trip is quite a journey. If keen, better to make it an overnight stop, breaking the journey up from Rome, giving you an evening and morning (or more) to get a feel for the place.
Finally, I'd add that mixing with the local people on the buses can be a good way to acclimatise. If learning the language, it adds familiarity to (local) pronounciations and allows interactions that you can miss in the car.
So in summary, the car is an unusual and challenging mode of transport for tourists on Amalfi Coast, but not impossible and certainly easier in March than (say) July. We'll always go with public transport, but if you're very gregarious, then you may well enjoy the steep switchback climbs into the hills (but don't think about the steepness of the drop!), and the skillful, but challenging style of driving you'll encounter.
I hope this helps and you have a great holiday there!
regards
Ian
Drink coffee, do stupid things faster
Posts: 306 | Location: UK | Registered: 20 September 2008
While staying in Positano, we daytripped to Sorrento, Amalfi, and Ravello, all by ferry except Ravello. Ravello does not have a port so we went as far as Amalfi and took the bus from there. The ferry rides were very enjoyable with great views.
As far as driving the Amalfi Coast Highway, that would be a real adventure and hastle. It's probably not worth the headache. We didn't have a car and glad for that. The road is very narrow. In some places, two vehicles can not pass, so both stop and one backs up to a wider spot in the road.
Are there websites where I could look up schedules? I guess I better pick up a tour book.
And is it better to take taxis or hire a driver to get from Naples to AC with luggage? Seems like the latter would agree to a fixed price whereas the former might be more likely to pull shenanigans.
Posts: 201 | Location: West Coast | Registered: 17 April 2008
I can't recall who runs the ferry routes - others will I'm sure recall (SNAV rings a bell but that may have been somewhere else).
For taxi drivers - like taxi drivers elsewhere - an upfront agreed price is exactly that, with no hidden extras or dodgy meters. If booked through your accomodation, then any issues and they'll sort it out for you.
regards
Ian
Drink coffee, do stupid things faster
Posts: 306 | Location: UK | Registered: 20 September 2008
Originally posted by CaWino: While staying in Positano, we daytripped to Sorrento, Amalfi, and Ravello, all by ferry except Ravello. Ravello does not have a port so we went as far as Amalfi and took the bus from there. The ferry rides were very enjoyable with great views.
Ok, CaWino - I remember your great comments - thanks so much. I would like to go to Capri. Sounds wonderful. So - if I have just one overnight - ie - get there in the am, stay the day and overnight, - get up in morning and take the ferry to Naples and then a taxi to airport - is this worth it????? sounds like a "not slow travel" thing to do. I hate to cut Positano up too much - I have six nights there - have booked Best Western Hotel Positea.
Can you recommend a hotel for Capri or Anacapri? Maybe I should do two nights there - decisions decisions.
As far as driving the Amalfi Coast Highway, that would be a real adventure and hastle. It's probably not worth the headache. We didn't have a car and glad for that. The road is very narrow. In some places, two vehicles can not pass, so both stop and one backs up to a wider spot in the road.
Posts: 76 | Location: na | Registered: 27 October 2008
Originally posted by Ian Sutton: I can't recall who runs the ferry routes - others will I'm sure recall (SNAV rings a bell but that may have been somewhere else).
For taxi drivers - like taxi drivers elsewhere - an upfront agreed price is exactly that, with no hidden extras or dodgy meters. If booked through your accomodation, then any issues and they'll sort it out for you.
regards
Ian
Found this page, which has links I've seen in some travel books as well.
We spent 3 weeks in Positano with a car, our hotel had parking, so ask when you book. The drive in is fabulous,there are "pull overs 'all along the coast road to stop and view,take photos, and marval at the engineers who built this road. Yes you will meet a full size tourest bus coming toward you, but they know how to get past, all you need to do is follow instructions.Get in the car and drive to all the little villages, park in the mostly free parks, and walk in paradise.We never ate in the same place twice,there are many places to eat along the cost road that you could only get to in a car, with views to die for.If you drive in a city you will be fine on the coast road.
An old traveler
Posts: 177 | Location: Wodonga Australia | Registered: 15 April 2006
There are some real high end places in Capri to stay, but we found La Tosca, a one star hotel, quite good.
The hotels on the Anacapri side of Capri are on the whole cheaper than the ones in Capri town. La Tosca was one of the more reasonable ones in Capri town. In may 2008 we stayed at Il Girasole on the Anacapri side for 8 nights at 80 euros a night. they had a shuttle that picked us up at the port for 7 euros apiece. I wrote hotel review that you could look up.
On the whole the further away you get from the Piazzetta the cheaper everything gets. We used to patronize a bar jsut on the other side of the Piazzetta. The bakery items were delicious and cheaper, and the view was better. You could see off into the sea. The Piazzetta is just claustrophobic; maybe you will get to see Tom Cruise if you sit there long enough buying expensive drinks.
I have a google map that I made up for our Capri trip from may. it has sites, some hotels and restaurants listed. if you are interested, I could post a link.
Posts: 4354 | Location: St Paul, MN | Registered: 10 February 2006
Dear Marie, I am probably late in responding to this but I thought I would throw in my two cents. My husband and I lived in Vietri sul Mare (the ceramics town) for 5 months. We selected this town because of the ease of going in every direction from there and not always having to drive the Amalfi Coast road and I loved visiting Positano, the way the pastel colors spill down to the sea always took my breath away. I agree with most everything everyone said here about accessibility to other places, touristy areas etc. Amalfi was our least favorite because of all the tourists, traffic and shops but it is definitely worth visiting and you can get off the beaten path away from the main square and the cathedral is a must see.
I adored Ravello and we visited often. I highly recommend going there. It's very high off the main road and the walk up to Villa Cimbrone is a steep one but definitely worth it if you are healthy enough for all that walking. The views and the Villa's gardens are spectacular and personal favorites. I also recommend you stop in tiny Cetara for a more authentic little town where people actually live and go about their daily lives, fishing, shopping, stopping to talk with neighbors. Pick up a loaf of bread and some fruit and walk out on the pier that offers an incredible view of the town and the coast from the water! Delightful!
Everyone says not to drive the coast road but the first time we visited we took the bus and were sorry. It was crowded and hard to see the views if you didn't have a window seat. But if you are not brave about driving in Italian traffic which can be pretty hair-raising, don't. We lived in Italy for two years and my husband got really good at navigating and anticipating. You will have much more freedom to go where you want to go but be prepared for crazy drivers on a narrow, swervy road.
This is an amazing area with so much to see, I do recommend your not trying to see everything but taking it slow, take the time to savor it, even if you don't see everything there is to see. It will mean more and you will remember it better! If you want to read about our time there, visit our blog at www.livecheapmakeart.blogspot.com. We lived there from Dec 2006 to April 1 2007, so it was the winter, which was off season.
At any rate, enjoy! Give my regards to the Amalfi Coast! Drink a cappuccino for me. Rosemary
