Last year I had the wonderful idea that I would buy a new set of dishes in Italy, thus turning my souveniers into something useful, and something we could see and enjoy every day. When I spoke to my daughter-in-law about it, she ahd several friends who were "into" ceramics, so she asked around, and the general concensus was that most Italina ceramics are not microwave or dishwasher safe! When we went to Italy, we still looked, but I never found the pattern I liked, and Shannon's warning seemed to be true. THEN we went to Orvieto, and walked into a ceramics shop and just fell in love with their stuff!!! AND it was microwave and dishwasher safe!!! Funny thing was, I fell in love with one patter and Art fell in love with another, so we bought four place settings, all different! We keep the dining room table set with them all the time! The name of the shop is Ceramiche Giacomini, at Piaza Duomo n.34...as you stand with the Duomo at your back, this shop will be on your right. Has anyone else had this experience with ceramics? I just wanted something semi-practical, never realizing it would be aproblem...guess there is lead or some sort of metal in the clay?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Kim,

We bought two mugs from the ceramics place near Radda in Chianti - Ceramiche Rampini. We wanted a set of plates, but it was all very expensive. We would have got several different patterns and mixed them - I like that look too. But we got the two mugs. They go in the dishwasher fine. One got a little chip, which made me think maybe they are not so durable. Also the ceramic is kind of thick. Not as thick as the handmade ones you get in Mexico..

I got some factory made plates from Switzerland in a store in Phoenix a few years back (small store in the big mall with the Nordstroms) and I love those plates. Crazy colorful designs. Company is called Bopla!

http://www.leafnbean.com/bopla/bopla.htm

A safety note: I can't remember seeing Orvietoware (or Derutaware either) in use anywhere to be eaten off; I've certainly never eaten off any myself. It's possible that the glazes are OK for ornamental use but not for ingestion; for example they may contain lead, as is definitely the case with other ceramics. You should check this of course before buying a whole service for dinnerware. Come to think of it I don't remember seeing such a service for sale anywhere, but then although I hang around in restaurants a lot, not so much in shops.

People do buy complete dinnerware sets from Italy. Jane from CA bought some in the Amalfi area. She has a photo on her trip report photos page:

http://www.slowtrav.com/trip_reports/2001_fall_jane_photos.htm
CAUTION: Page is slow to download because I filled it with photos and the photos of the plates is at the bottom.

I have also read on AOL about people buying sets of dinnerware in Deruta. I think that lead is not used anymore.

I get a beautiful catalog about every six months from www.ceramicadirect.com and am always tempted... I know the prices are hugely inflated over purchasing in Italy, but on the other hand, it would be nice not to worry about damage in shipment from Italy. If something happened, at least you're dealing with a US company.
Look on their website under "Care and Use" for comments about lead content - most of their dishes are meant for daily use, not just decoration - and microwave/oven usability.

Some Italian ceramic producers will certify that products intended for food use don't have lead in the paint or glaze. I don't know if there is any Italian governmental regulation on this, though. Anyone know? I've also seen info from specific producers about dishwasher and microwave instructions.

I'm a bit of a lead nut (I've had lead-poisoned children in my class), so I do a lead test on ceramics I buy abroad that I may use for serving. My understanding is that these tests react more in the presence of high levels of lead, and may not give accurate results if lower levels are present. To be completely sure, you can have a piece lab tested.

Most hardware stores carry lead-check kits - usually swabs with a chemical in a little tube that's attached that you break. The liquid flows into the swab end and you swipe this across the area you want to test. Follow the
directions carefully on whatever kit you get but all the ones I've seen have been pretty simple and if the swab turns pink, there's leachable lead present. (There is also a type of kit available that has little test tubes
and bottles of solution et al. You'll have to decide which kind is better for you.) If you can't find them at your hardware stores, then you can easily find mail order places that have them available. Here's one:
http://www.abundantearth.com/store/leadtest.html

Thanks for all the input! There is nothing on the backs of the dishes saying "microwave/dishwasher safe" like we have in the US, but we have eaten off them quite a bit, and I have put them in the dishwasher once with no problems. I haven't put them in the microwave, I mainly wanted them to be microwave SAFE, just so I wouldn't have to worry. I didn't realize there were do-it-yourself kits to test for lead...maybe that wouldn't be such a bad idea. We were told in the shop that the dishes were microwave/dishwasher safe, and I hate to be such a cynic and say she would lie to make a sale, but then again, who know? I would still recommend this shop, because they have beautiful things, and every piece of dinnerware is made with holes in the back for hanging on the wall!

I know Deruta and Gubbio ceramics better, and I know one can buy some of them in the US. Tiffany handles some, Neiman-Marcus handles others, and there are a couple of dedicated resources as well.
Supposedly ceramics importaed to the US are lead tested, but recently I heard horror stories about Moroccan tagines being lead mines, so apparently that's not working well.
I guess I would take a tiny lead testing kit with me to test before buying. Why spend $200 a place setting without testing?
I have also never had a problem with their packing. I paid for insurance and never had a broken piece except when I carried it home by hand in my luggage. And I never paid any duty and always got credited for the VAT on the invoice -- since it was being shipped directly, the VAT wasn't charged to me. My fruit cooler from Montelupo has been shipped to WV and then shipped back, all in the same packing. At $400 it would have been a concern.
The good stuff is so expensive that it would never occur to me to put it in the microwave! I routinely use the dishwasher to wash the pieces I use at the table and also to spiff up the ornamental pieces I own.
One of the pretty things is the spice containers from Gubbio. Since liquids aren't put in there I shouldn't think lead would be a problem.
Anyway, I haven't found the Italian people to seem lead poisoned. They've been creating fabulous art, music, clothing, furniture right along during all the centuries they've been using these dishes!

Most of the ceramics made in Italy are produced in just a few major centers except for art pieces which are produced locally all over the country. Deruta is one of the largest towns with much of its production in very traditional (old) patterns.
If you go there you can order custom made sets and have then delivered to the US.

Personally, I have found that the custom designs made for high end shops in Orvieto and Siena are more to my taste. Beware the average tourist shops and their low quality mechandise (sloppy and under saturated colors... especially the blue colors that take repeated color application) As for shipping, I have not had any problems with breakage as the pieces are usually very well bubble wrapped and shipped via UPS usually in just a few days. Costs though are not cheap but can amount to less than $100 for a large box of a dozen or so good size serving pieces. As long as you buy enough items, the cost of shipping is more than offset when you factor in the price of quality ceramics in the US being 3 times higher than their price in Italy.

As for lead content issues you will find that reputable shops will only supply lead free pottery and are very aware of health issues and buyer concerns. As long as you don't store acidic liquids (wine) or foods in your purchases you have little to worry about anyway. Lead leaching is a fairly slow process under normal conditions.
Remember your lead crystal has similar problems.
Serving a pasta or roast on your Deruta platter is not likely to react with the food for the short time it's in contact. As long as the ceramics are not chipped and the glaze is not cracked you should be reasonably safe even when you question lead content.

Having Italian ceramics on the walls of your house for both decoration and practical kitchen and dining use is the ultimate souvenir from your vacation. Don't hesitate and have fun. Also remember that designs change from town to town so buy it when you see it. Don't expect to drive down the road and find the same thing cheaper somewhere else. I have never regreted a ceramic purchase once I've returned home.
If anyone is intersted, I can pass along the names of shops I've bought from that offer quality goods.

Hi Dane - I am very interested in your favorite ceramic shops of good quality in Siena.
Thank you
Colleen K