Hello all! Larry and I have just booked a week-long trip to Venice in May, without the kids. (Thank you, Mom and Dad!)
This will be our first time there, and I'd love to hear of your suggestions, experiences, recommendations, horror stories, whatever. Walks, restaurants, things off the beaten path...
I'm also collecting links to good information, and I'll post what I find.
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Kim,
Posts: 8612 | Location: Newton (outside Boston), MA | Registered: 17 June 2001
quote: This will be our first time there, and I'd love to hear of your suggestions, experiences, recommendations, horror stories, whatever. Walks, restaurants, things off the beaten path...
Uh, oh, Amy - where should I start??
One of my favorite buildings in Venice is the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. You've probably seen pictures of its elegantly unusual exterior "snail staircase." You can climb to the top for some fantastic views of Venice. Another favorite spot is the church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli. Perfectly serene and beautiful.
Oh, the church of the Frari! A wonderful, wonderful place, with Titian's amazing painting of the Assumption. DO NOT MISS!
Drink recommendations - A glass of prosecco or a Bellini cocktail at Harry's, a cappuccino at Florian's or Quadri in Piazza San Marco, a "spritz con aperol" at sunset at any of the little bar/cafes...
Ian Littlewood's "A Literary Companion to Venice" is a great resource with tons of interesting details about the city. It includes some walking tours of the various districts (sestieri) of Venice. Highly recommend.
John Julius Norwich's "A History of Venice" is very readable - although long! - and provides a fantastic background on the significance of Venice in history.
I'll try to get organized and post some links, and will be sending Pauline my Venice trip report soon.
Posts: 14209 | Location: The Beautiful San Francisco Bay Area | Registered: 06 August 2001
I also highly recommend going to the Ghetto, and into a synagogue, if you can. It's in a more remote part of the city and was pretty moving for me when I went.
Speaking of more remote parts of the city, I found that once you get away from San Marco and the Rialto and a couple of other places, there are wonderful out-of-the-way neighborhoods to discover. That's some of what I loved the best.
Note: if you have to find an address anywhere, good luck. Do you know how they're organized, or rather disorganized? Fascinating!
Posts: 4890 | Location: New York City | Registered: 15 June 2001
Thanks, Colleen and David. Who else has been to Venice lately? I'm sure I'll have many more specific questions as the time gets closer to departure and I get deeper into guidebooks.
I've been collecting links to Venice info- here they are.
Pauleen- I notice there isn't information about transportation from Venice's airport on the website yet, like there is for Rome and Milan. I found info on the waterbus to San Marco, and the bus to Piazzale Roma. First-hand experiences from folks would also be great.
One of the contributors to the AOL board writes for the International Herald Tribune. She lives in Venice and has done some great pieces on different things to see (e.g., secret itinerary tour at the doge palace). Unfortunately, her articles only remain on the IHT website during the date of publication. They're in PDF format (you need adobe acrobat to read them) but if you like, I saved them to my hard drive and can e-mail them to you. I've also converted the secret itinerary article to word format...just let me know where to send them.
Posts: 14979 | Location: Casa dei Cerrbiati, NJ, USA | Registered: 16 June 2001
When you register on this message board, you get to decide if you want your email address available to people. Click the small icon of the person and the envelope at the top of anyone's post and you will get their email address. This latest version of the software only puts that icon there if the person has allowed their email address to be made available.
Kim, could you email those articles to me too? I will print them out for my files. It is too bad the International Herald Tribune does not have past issues on the web. slowtrav@mindspring.com
Posts: 26620 | Location: Santa Fe, NM | Registered: 15 June 2001
We have a Venice tour guide listed. She contacted me and told me about herself. She also has a link to SlowTrav on her site (which I thought was very nice):
When you go visit St Marks, be there either an hour early in the morning and wait at the entrance, or go an hour before closing to avoid the crowds and the intolerably long line to enter. I prefer the morning, to sit there and watch the central square of the town come alive.
Do the Doges Palace tour one day and then do the "secret tour" a day or two later. I did this on my last trip and it was great.
Get lost. Walk and walk around, visiting things at random, hanging out in campi, having lunch wherever you find yourselves. This will take you out of the tourist areas (hopefully!) and let you figure out navigating your way back.
Vaporetto #1 up the Grand Canal is always fabulous, but at night it's even better.
Posts: 473 | Location: Bayeux, France | Registered: 01 December 2001
Hi Amy, My partner and I were in Venice this past September. You might want to check out my trip report "Tom in CA" for a few tips and ideas. We had a hard time finding great restaurants after being spoiled in Tuscany, but we did find a few good ones. Tom
Posts: 268 | Location: San Rafael, CA | Registered: 10 July 2001
Amy- Leafing through my Italy trip journal from April, 2000, I found notes on one of our favorite, inexpensive resturants in Venice. It is Trattoria tre spedi, Cannaregio,5906. It wasn't easy to find but they had a wonderful fixed price lunch. Great fish and pasta, very friendly staff and it was filled with locals. Wanted to return but never made it back. Our favorite area was the Campo Margherita area with lovely piazzas, churches and Venetian masks. St. Mark's Square is breathtaking in the very early morning when only the pigeons are about. The dueling orchestras at night are also very entertaining. If you don't want to wait in line to see St. Mark's Basicalla, you can enter a side entrance on the left (as you're facing the church) which is an entrance for those wanting to worship. A totally enchanting city! Enjoy.
Posts: 2697 | Location: Cambridge, MA | Registered: 18 August 2001
I recommend, at the entrance to Campo Santa Margharita, L'incontro, a little tratoria with a Sardinian chef who does wonderful things with beef. Unlike most eateries in Venice, there are no fish entries.
Next door is the Gelateria Doge, worth the trip. I have been served Sgropino (sp?) at L'incontro when the waiter goes to the Doge for lemon gelato.
Also, on a sidestreet on the walkway between the Academia and Campo Santa Margharita is Osteria Vini Padovani, at Calle dei Cerchieri 1280. Seats about fifteen and you will see no other stranieri. It is like a tiny cafeteria with everything under glass. Most warm entries are microwaved and if you order pasta, more than likely the lady across the calle will bring it over. Wonderful owners who will share a grappina after lunch. Buon appetito.
Posts: 465 | Location: hilton head island, SC | Registered: 16 July 2001
The above article details the pleasures of renting an apartment in Venice. There are some shop and restaurant recommendations at the end.
The April 2002 issue of the Magazine of La Cucina Italiana highlights a winter visit in Venice. More shop and restaurant recommendations! Osteria Da Alberto is mentioned, and I can also recommend this small restaurant in Cannaregio. Very good food and service and reasonable prices.