Hi-

First off, great site. I'm eteranally grateful I stumbled across it.

I'm looking to go to Italy for my Honeymoon later this fall. We're planning on spending time in Rome, Venice and Milan.

I'm looking for a place to stay in Rome. I know I probably want to be "centrally located" but I don't know where.

We don't mind spending a little time to get to attraction A and museum B when we go sight seeing.
But what we really enjoy is buying food/drink, taking it back to our pad, and enjoying it while doing absolutely nothing else

All the sites and guides I look at always say "Great central location! Only steps away from XXX and 5 minutes from YYY". But we're looking for more of neighborhood resources.

I was wondering if someone could recommend a part of Rome I could stay in where I could walk a few blocks and hit street vendors or small shops where we could buy food, wine, groceries, etc. Even non food boutiques and stuff would be nice. Im not not looking for a supermarket, but if there's an area that has street vendors and maybe a farmer's market that we can stroll to, that would be great!
As far as visiting the major sites, we wouldnt mind traveling to go see it vs. just being "a few steps away from the "

Thanks in advance!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: K&M,

Bill

Gazetteer of Rome

Centrally located means "Centro" to me and that would be the area in and around the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. There are a couple of first rate food stores a stone's throw from the Pantheon on Via de Monte Argentina. Plus the area has many fine restaurants of all classes within walking distance. A farmer's market-Fiore--is an easy walk. You will not need a bus or taxi to take in all the major tourist attractions if you chose to stay in this locale.

Parioli is an upscale neighborhood that would fit your desire for "dolce far niente" to a tee. This is a residential area with many fine food stores and excellent restaurants. I am familiar and would recommend Trattoria Fauro and Al Ceppo. But, finding good places to eat would be no trouble in this area especially so as it is not a tourist's destination. There is an upscale hotel which I have visited but not stayed in just on the edge of the Borghese Gardens--The Lord Byron.

Bill is right on the money with his recommendation of the Parioli district as it suits your parameters, especially the one not minding to travel a bit to see the tourist attractions.

I also like the Prati area but lets hear from you about the above thoughts before going much further.

I am not a fan of the Trastevere area, and I guess that I am in the minority on this board. But, it surely has its fans.

Peter

How long in each location.your desire to cook or eat at home makes a rental with a kitchen seem the right choice.RR

My immediate reaction to your question was Trastevere or Aventino. I love Trastevere but I've always wanted to try staying in Aventino. One of these days ...

Of these two, Trastevere is a bit busier. The peace and quiet of Aventino comes at a price, however. Restaurants and shopping, etc., are not as convenient as they are in Trastevere. Also, there seem to be fewer rental apartments there so it will take more work to find a place.

It sounds like Trastevere is a more "happening" place. I have read some sights that call it a bit too "touristy". Am I gonna be surrounded by StarBucks and Virgin Megastores and places selling trinkets of the Pantheon?

Parioli, Aventino, and Prati sound interesting too. They sound like San Francisco (where I live) neighborhoods. But are they kinda dead at night? Are they too residential? Or are they kind of their own self sufficient neighborhood with their own flavor?

I'd like somewhere that has a lot of cafes where we can stop by and have coffee or maybe brunch. When I say shopping, I don't really mean serious shopping with boxes in both hands, but more stopping into little shops that seem interesting.

Staying in the center of Rome seems like the "safe" bet, but these other locals are intreguing too...
hmm... decisions decisions

Thanks for all the comments so far!

FYI Robert: 5 nights in Rome(culture & cuisine), 2 Tuscany(cooking class), 3 Venice(Romance), 4 Milan(shopping)
Yes I think the appartment rental w/ kitchen is a great idea. Im actively looking!

Prati (actually between Prati and the Cipro-Musei Vaticani subway stop) is my favorite area to stay in Rome when I go there, but I must say that this sin't a particularly scenic area, it's more of a residential neighborhood, not too popular but not even too upscale.
As for the Starbucks problem: well, Starbucks does not have any Italian shop yet (although it is said it will open soon in Milano). In any case, in Trastevere you are more likely to hit a Roman rosticceria selling supplì al telefono (fried rice balls garnished with ragù sauce and with a mozzarella center) and other tipically Roman and Italian handheld food than a McDoo, although fast-foods are quite popular here too.
Finally, for food shopping I love two places. First the Castroni stores, which sell an array of gourmet stuff, including exotic ingredients (there's a Castroni Internazionale somewhere: I could get there but I don'ìt know the address!), and Mercato Trionfale, a daily open-air market where you can find the best "Roman" ingredients. Currently, Mercato Trionfale is soread out on the street because it usual spot (an enclosed structure where most stalls are) is going through some reparations, but the stalls are still on the same area. These are both places where the ROmans do their grocerly shopping.
Finally, you say you plan Milano for shopping, but being a Milense, I do more shopping in Rome than here because of the lower prices (with equal quality). Milano is a place to explore and discover, but don't forget the wonderful shopping opportunities that Rome offers. So, my suggestion is to either cut off one day from venice and one from milano, or to cut off two days from Milano, and add two days to your Rome stay and make it a week. Maybe in a rental.

There is a big food market on Cola di Rienzo and Castroni is at Via Cola di Rienzo 196.

There is a wonderful hotel in Prati--the Farnese. While the area is very residential, the walk from the Prati area to Piazza del Popolo, Spanish Steps etc. is only about 30 minutes without stopping every minute to window shop on Via Babuino. The Vatican is also in walkable distance but a little longer than 30 minutes.

Peter

I agree with Peter about Prati...my old neighborhood. The Cola di Rienzo market, Castroni, the shops, boulevard type street leading to Piazza del Popolo on one end and Vatican at the other. Convenient for restaurants, metro too, yet a real neighborhood ...although its become too expensive in the past 20 years for most families and many apts. have become offices, or B&B.

Ciao,

Doing nothing in Rome ranks right up there with doing nothing in Ravello. In fact, I'd say Rome has a distinct advantage. It might be just 'bout the bestest place to do nothing ( or anything and everything) there is.

Well, it's the most beautiful city I know. Also, it suits well a lazy man. One doesn't have to work hard for one's pleasures. One big sensual feast spread out before you.

And when it's all just a bit too much walk on up the Aventine. Bring your blood pressure way down in the atmospheric 5th century church of Santa Sabina. Check out the cloisters while you're there. Hang out with the ghosts of Saint Dominic and St. Thomas Aquinas. Stroll on over to Sant' Anselmo. Browse the adjacent Benedictine shop. Now there's a peaceful place. Peer at Saint Peter's through Pirandesi's keyhole. Watch the sunset from the Giardino degli Aranci behind Santa Sabina. And perhaps if you are very lucky you may catch the last few rays of golden sunlight reflecting upon the Palantine ruins as you descend the hill. Yea, Bill, the Aventine is awfully pleasant.

On the other hand, it's pretty much exclusively residential. And very upscale exclusive residential at that. Of course, one can stroll down to Testaccio, the gentrifying former workers district, to do one's shopping. Without a doubt it's home to the best market in town. ( We lived for 3 months 100 meters from Campo de' Fiori and still I would walk to the Testaccio market because prices were often half of those at the Campo.) So perhaps then, Testaccio. It has a real neighborhood feel. Great restaurants.
But, in truth, it's not gorgeous. Early 20th century apartment blocks. And one should, if possible, simply be immersed in gorgeousness in Rome.

For the same reason I would vote against Prati and Parioli. Both are well-off, slightly staid neighborhoods. Also, I'm not crazy about the late 19th century post unification architecture of either area. Basically, I don't like my Rome on a grid.

Instead, I prefer the narrow winding lanes of the Campo Marzio and of Trastevere. It is in these areas where one can feel a part of village Rome. Sure all the tourists are there. But still there are also a lot of Romani here too going about thier lives. There are still craftsmen plying their trades on the narrow strets. There are still macellerie and latticini and osterie and barbieri and salumerie and hundreds of mom and pop negozi.

Also, one of the best places to do nothing in Rome is in a piazza with a beautiful fountain. That means the centro. Piazza Farnese certainly qualifies. The Trevi is stunning, but it's a zoo at all hours. Hard to do nothing there. Although the Trevi really is just an excuse to go to San Crispino. Armagnac gelato anyone? Piazza Navona and della Rotonda are good too.

I'm very fond also of Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. In this case, however, you don't sit and stare at the fountain. Rather you sit on the fountain with the other ragazzi and maybe even drink a Peroni out of a plastic cup.

And K&M you don't have to worry bout Starbucks and Virgin megastores. The areas highly touristed but has not gone the multinational chain route yet thank God. Instead, in Trastevere you'll get your morning, afternoon, and evening coffee at Sacchetti on Piazza San Cosimato. (Also, coincidentally where you'll do your morning produce shopping at the market. Also butchers and a great salumeria/formaggeria stand run by a kindly older gentleman and his even his kindlier son.) Or drop by nearby Bar San Calisto for a caffe there. It's also a great place for the 9am Peroni fix. And rather than a Virgin Megastore you'll have an East African with bootlegged American and Italian pop CD's spread out on a sheet on the ground. Buy 'em by the handful. Get a volume discount.

In short, if one wants to see a few sights but also just hang out and enjoy Rome, Trastevere is a pretty good area. It's just filled with life from the morning to the wee hours of the morning. And Santa Maria in Trastevere is right there. I often thought that one of the great priveleges of spending months in Rome was that I could stroll to Santa Maria in Trastevere and just walk inside and sit. Sometimes for 5 minutes, other times for 50 minutes. Study the Cavallini mosaics. Say Hi to the awfully busy Statue of Sant'Antonio. Study the Cosmati floor. Contemplate the Byzantine Madonna on wood. Damn, I'm driving myself crazy. And Santa Cecilia is over there too. Love that place as well...

Rome is boundless in its attractions. When folks spout the cliche that a lifetime is not enough for Rome there are really telling you the truth. It can be quite overwhelming. Find you own little place in Rome and make it your own. Find your Rome.

Oh yea, another great area is the Ghetto...

And finally, and I do mean finally this time, congratulations. Just over six years ago Jennifer and I went to Italy for the first time on our luna di miele and together we made a new love- Italy. Needless to say, both loves, ours and our love of Italy, are doing just fine.
Buona Fortuna,
Anthony and Jennifer

I wouldn't call Trastevere touristy - but it is trendy and therefore full of young people. It is also a thriving residential community with a range of restaurants and shops.

I've stayed in Prati and it was fine, but it's very residential. There were restaurants, but there wasn't a night life on the streets except around dinner time (at least where I stayed, on Via Roti about seven blocks north of the Vatican). There is wonderful shopping along Via Cola di Rienzo.

It may be tough to get short term rentals.For Tuscany you could stay in a agriturismo a working farm,many have rooms with a small kitchen RR

quote:

Originally posted by K&M:FYI Robert: 5 nights in Rome(culture & cuisine), 2 Tuscany(cooking class), 3 Venice(Romance), 4 Milan(shopping)
Yes I think the appartment rental w/ kitchen is a great idea. Im actively looking!

Take a peek at this place. We'll be staying there later this month. The owners are best possible people. It has good reviews on this board. It seems ideally located for dolce farniente, cuisine and culture.

Although my first choice would be the area near the Campo de'Fiori--where both hammerj and doru are staying--another candidate..as yet unmentioned...is the Monti neighborhood--in back of Trajan's forum and extending up toward Stazione Termini. Narrow, picturesque streets and less touristed than other areas, it has a lively ambiance with shopping, dining and easy access to the most of the major Rome sightseeing destinations.

Ah yes, the Monti. Was going to mention it but got lost in some reverie about something or other and forgot to. Lively area with just enough grit to remind you that you are not in Prati or Parioli, thank goodness. Also much more central.( Of course, it depends upon what one defines as central. For me, the Campo, Navona, Pantheon axis is the center of the center.)

Another peaceful area that I would choose over either Prati or Parioli would be the Celio. Get away from the tourist tack associated with the Colosseum and it's got just this real peaceful vibe. Villa Celimontana is a lovely little park. And all the churches in the area ( fortress like Santi Quattro Coronati with it's Donation of Constantine frescoes in the Oratory, Santa Maria in Domnica with it's apostles in a field of poppies mosaics, Santi Giovanni and Paolo atop extensive Roman stuff and the foundations of the Claudius' temple, Santo Stefano in Rotondo which was in restauro all last year, San Gregorio Magno with its gardens and false facade, and that little church with the moisaic on the facade of Christ with the white and the black slave) just lend a real contemplative feel to the whole area.

Nonetheless, for a first visit to Rome for a relatively brief period I'd head to either Trastevere or the Campo area. Energy, excitement.

Anthony and Jennifer

quote:

Originally posted by Robert Rainey:
It may be tough to get short term rentals.For Tuscany you could stay in a agriturismo a working farm,many have rooms with a small kitchen RR

Rome is full of apartments for rent and not all have the Saturday to Saturday restriction. Check out our Rome Listings and our Rome Reviews for vacation rentals.

We spent 2 weeks in an apartment in Rome last year and were right in the center - between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. There were grocery stores and delis and great restaurants. I think the center is a good place to stay.

I really enjoyed the discussion of the various parts of Rome to stay in

We have been living in Rome since Sept [initially near Campo Dei Fiori and then in Trastevere

I have to cast my vote for Trastevere. There are an abundance of restuarants and cafes, the old winding streets have a charm of their own and during the day [before all the visitors come] it seems like a small village.

For shopping for eats, Via S. Francesco a Ripa and Via Natale Grande are wonderful: the Cheese Store [Antica Caciara] makes you want to eat the minute your smell the odor from the doorway....there is the small bakery around the corner, several butchers, the fish store, the store for fresh pasta and of course the fruit/vegetable market which was on Piazza S. Cosimato but has been relocated to Viale Trastevere while Piazza S Cosimato is repaired.

There is the English language movie theatre in Piazza S Edigio, several clubs and numerous cafes

For places to stay, try wanted in Rome which has classified listings in English.

I see that Jim mentioned Monti before I found this thread. I love this area which has a real neighbourhood feel to it, yet is up and coming with a funky mix of new trattorie; tiny, dusty hardware stores; Indian restaurants; a piazza with locals hanging out; reasonably priced food shops; fab gelaterie; etc. I rented an apt here for a week about 5 years ago, and made a point of visiting it again this winter on my most recent trip to Rome. I think that Roman Homes has a good description of the area on their website.
- Marie

I am glad to see some mentions of the Monti district. I have rented an apartment there for three weeks. I wanted to be in the centro storico, but could not afford the area I did not spend any time in the Monti on my last trip to Rome, and it is unknown to me. So, I went on the idea that "anywhere I can afford, closest to my dream location" would work for me!
I would gratefully accept any input about Monti. Remember, I have never lived in a city of any size, so even the most basic information will be valuable to me. For example, I have never had to ride a city bus.
DMae

DMae,
I think you will find the Roman Homes info on Monti helpful. Several bus routes travel down via Nazionale, which is on the northern edge of the district, and the little electric bus (I think the 117) runs all the way between the Piazza del Popolo and San Giovanni in Laterano, winding through Monti enroute. Have oyu looked at the Rome public transportation site to familiarize yourself with the busses, fares, ticket prices, passes etc.?
- Marie

Marie,
Thank you for the link to info on Monti. Nice reference for me. I have studied up on the busses by checking out the ATAC site. I really like the part where you can enter your start and end addresses, and they tell you what busses to take and the number of stops before you have to get off. I have been worried about getting totally lost in Rome by taking a bus. Silly, since I got totally lost in Rome when I was just walking around.
I plan on purchasing CIS weekly tickets when I get there and learning the bus routes I will need. I will be located near the Cavour Metro stop. I was pretty successful with the Metro last summer and even found my way when the Metro broke down and I walked back to my hotel.
DMae

It sounds as though you're all set, DMae! Have a great trip and be sure to stop in at il Gelatone
- Marie