Hello All,

I decided to post this separately from my other wine post as the subject is slightly different.

I love Italian wines, but will not be able to do much tasting/visiting this trip. I hope to have the opportunity for one winery visit each in Montalcino and Chianti Classico while my traveling companion (daughter) is engaged in half-day cooking lessons. I've seen many posts on great visits, but thought it would be fun to ask...if you could only go to one Winery each in Montalcino and Chianti Classico, which one would you visit? Scenery, tour, and tasting/purchase options are all equally weighted for me. Since I may only get one visit in the next four or five years, I hope to make the best of it!
Thank you,

Steve

Do you have a favor Chianti or Brunello? How about investigating whether the vineyard has a tour and trace the elixir back to its source?

Hello April,
Not one favorite, but have enjoyed the "Three F's" as some call them (Fontodi, Felsina and Fonterutoli), as well as Olena, Querciabella and others. Fontodi was my first thought, based on the location (fairly easy to get to) as well as the quality and variety of the wines. Great Super Tuscan (Flaccianello) and Syrah in addition to the Chianti Classico. In fact, I had originally hoped to stay in one of the apartments associated with the winery (via the fontodi.com web site), but was not available for our travel dates. So, Fontodi will probably be my primary choice for a visit, but would gladly hear suggestions from anyone. I'm aware that tours/tastings at Fontodi (and most wineries) must be arranged in advance.

I don't have much experience with Brunello (yet!), but have a few "sleeping" in the cellar, including a '97 Banfi Poggio All'Oro Riserva waiting for a special occasion. I understand that Castello Banfi is beautiful and a relatively easy visit (although less personal due to its size), but again, suggestions are always appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

Steve, one thing to check out before you go (and you probably know this already) is to be sure that the place you choose actually has tastings. Many, actually most, of the vineyards and wineries in Chianti do not offer tastings. They may give tours of their vats and cellars but that is all--no samples. If you are interested in a variety of tasting opportunities, you may want to check out Le Cantine in Greve-in-Chianti.

Castello di Fonterutoli is a few kilometers south of Castellina in Chianti, run by the Mazzei family. If you click on the Hospitality link at the top of the page, you can get information about tours and tastings, as well as information about their accommodations.

In Castellina itself, Rocca delle Macie has a retail store where you can taste a range of their wines without having to reserve a tour. They also have an agriturismo south of Castellina.
As mentioned above, Le Cantine in Greve in Chianti offers the opportunities to taste several wines under one roof.
We enjoyed our visit to the Castello di Verrazzano, we did the lunch time tour and meal, they also have a tour and dinner if that works for your schedule better. They also have an agriturismo.

There are lots of wineries in the area and I would never claim to be an expert, however, of the ones we have been to Casa Emma is our favourite. If you book ahead you can arrange a tour - usually given by one of the sons and a tasting (4 wines, vin santo, and grappa). One of the sons will lead you in the tasting, as well. They will provide simple snacks with the tasting. We quite enjoy their super tuscan (Soloio) and their reserve chianti. The vin santo (95) is excellent.

They also produce some interesting olive oil and preserves.

We enjoyed their wines so much that we made a return visit last month.

We've had good luck asking our local wine rep. to arrange tours. Every time we've had a private tour and tasting by the owner or his manager with snacks or lunch. All gratis, though we usually buy a few bottles to drink in Italy.

Fattoria Barbi--on the road to St. Antimo.

Thanks to all for the great feedback and suggestions. I had the opportunity to spend an hour at Le Cantine in Greve back in 2005 and agree that it is a great place for tasting a wide variety of wines (and oils). It was almost overwhelming in its size, but the layout and the card system for tasting was so easy. Of course a winery visit will limit the variety of wines to be tasted, but the benefit is the scenery, history and sometimes just seeing the love and "sweat equity" that goes into producing a wine in a small family operation.

Jerry: thank you for the tip on Casa Emma. We'll be staying in Montefollonico for a week, so I also want to mention that I enjoyed reading your recent posts/blogs (as well as Palma's) on Montisi and the surrounding area.

Thanks! Responses and suggestions like these are why we ST newbees ask.

Steve

We visited a wonderful small winery called Uccelliera near the Sant'Antimo Abbey last year.
http://www.uccelliera-montalcino.it. We had many tastings and we really enjoyed our time with them. You need to call ahead for a tour time.

Sharon J

Steve,
For Brunello try the enoteca in the fortezza in Montalcino. For a winery visit try Croce di Mezzo http://www.crocedimezzo.com/index.htm
about 3 km from Montalcino on the road to Sant'Antimo.

Henry

Steve,

You really should contact the people at Small Vineyards (I put there address on your other post) Antonio is a great wine maker who is passionate about his wines... Brunellos, Rosso di Montanpulciano, Supers. They will tour wonderful small wineries and you will meet the owners, consultants, workers, kids, dogs, turtles.....

A memorable wine tours is interesting. Some times it is because of a single little moment, some times because it's just the best day, sometimes because its just MAGIC. And of course many many Italian wines are just spectacular.

It is a read but go into our web site and my husband has written about great wines and tours in our years in Tuscany.

My two favorite are:

A tasting in the bottom level of Badia Passignano where Antinori stores some of their wines.... and the guide mentioned that Gailleo taught upstairs. One of my first "Oh my God" moments

Talking to a little girl at Volpia. Her father is a wine maker. Invited to the winery (which was nothing to write about) but his enologist, Sean from Riecine was there. Ended up in a long afternoon sitting at an old warped wooden table with three local wine makers, drinking wine from mis matched juice glasses. Absolutely one of my favorite memories.

Both of these where because we try to be and eat with local people and we try to engage people around us.... and be open to all new experiences.

hello steve,
i would also recommend "casa emma". i know i am prejudiced, but i prefer the small vineyards to the well-known large ones. please talk with either paolo or fabrizo, and tell them that "davi sent you".

and since i am totally tuscan-loving, the same goes for "tenuta torciano": www.torciano.com
(which is another chianti location) - it is an
absolutely wonderful and fun experience. especially if you sign up for "wine tasting 101" with the owner, pierluigi giachi. tell him i sent you also.

when are you going? unlike jane, i have had great success with opportunities to taste wines at many chianti vineyards. since we basically just showed up, maybe its fortunate dumb luck!

A second round of "thank yous".
To Bob, Sharon and Henry: Thank you for the tips for the Montalcino area. I am familiar with the Barbi and Uccilleria wineries by name as good producers. The Croce di Mezzo winery is new to me and looks interesting as well. Sant'Antimo is on our "must visit" list, so any of these three might be a good fit for us. I see that Barbi does not require a reservation for individuals, just show up at one of five desginated tour times each day. That is a great option for someone traveling on "Slow" time.
Henry: at first I presumed your signature link was an ad, but was pleasantly surprised to see a wonderful information page for the area we will be staying. Awesome job.
jfraz - the Small Vineyards option is definitely worth considering. An informative web site and great concept - thanks!
elizabetta - thanks for the "second" on Casa Ema, as well as the Torciano recommendation. We will be in Tuscany 5-12 July before heading to Sweden. Most of the time will be in the Pienza-Montalcino-Montepulciano area, but will be at least one day (if not two) in the Chianti region. Definitely on the 9th when my daughter has a cooking lesson at Badia Coltibuono, which has its own winery to visit as well.

Thanks again to all - you've demonstrated one of the pleasant dangers of posting a question - ending up with too many good suggestions! Sounds like a great excuse for a follow-on trip.
Grazie,

Steve

hi steve,
your daughter will enjoy her cooking class at badia a coltibuono. guido is so talented and fun.

i will be in tuscany during that same time. if you get anywhere close to radda, stop into "enoteca toscana" and taste all the great chianti wines fabrizio offers.

Our apartment owner arranged a tour for us in English at Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona, which is just south of Sant'Antimo.

The tour was pretty straight-forward, visit to the barrel rooms and the huge glass-lined concrete vats they use (which was new to me).

But the wines were really good. They make a "super tuscan" and a 100% syrah, which were both really good. And the others also good too. Prices were in the low 30 euros I believe (less for the Rosso). Very nice people and generous pours. And they put up with our 3-year old too! I wouldn't call it "can't miss", but we really enjoyed it.

Website is here: http://www.ciaccipiccolomini.com/Index_e.htm

If you go to Ciacci Piccolomini try to get Angela - and ask her for a tour of the Palazzo Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona before you go to the winery.

Her wonderful recounting of the history of the winery really made this a special visit for us - and as Bryan said the wines are VERY good.

Steve

Sheena and Bryan are absoultely right - We have been twice and Angela is fantastic as well as the winery itself - you may want to include the Uccelliera Winery because they are a couple of hundred yards apart

And dont forget to include a visit to the Sant Antimo Abbey which is also close by

BTW we were there just two weeks ago- you must try Piccolomini's Olive oil and honey products you will be glad you did (we brought some home)If you buy their wine a must is their Brunello Pianrosso

Where will you be staying in the area?


Good luck
Bob

Bryan, Sheena and Bob - thanks for the feedback on Ciacci Piccolomini. Sounds wonderfull and for what it's worth, looks like Wine Spectator agrees with you that the wines are great.

Bob - we'll be staying in Montefollonico, just north of Montepulciano and Pienza. We were able to make a day trip to Montepulciano and Pienza during a 2005 visit, but will be able to spend more time exploring the area this trip and will definitely make it to Montalcino this time! As for Sant'Antimo, it is on our must see list.

Thanks all!
Steve

Hey, Steve in San Diego.........if you're in town, please join our GTG at the Track in Del Mar, August 9th.......Look at the GTG forum topic below under Pinot and Ponies. We are a fun group and have been slowtravelers for years..

Ciao,
Cheryl

There is a very special winery/village called Camigliano about 15 minutes west of Montalcino. Alessio, the director, gives wonderful & informative tours/ tastings and the wines are fabulous. BY appointment only...

Onceyou are in Montalcino, you will ikely make your way to Monteulciano, too. If you do, don't allow yourself to miss cantina del Redi. It is absulutely breathtaking. Do a search on google for pics and their site.