Okay, after being away from my "Italy planning" for awhile due to other travel (some slow, some not) and life (pesky job, kids, marathons, soccer tournaments etc.) am trying to get back to "finalizing" our plans (with the full expectation that the best laid plans. . .).
Anyway, we have a week in Rome, and below is what I'm thinking so far as to what to see and do -- what am I missing? And for those of you who don't already know, we are a family of six -- two girls, both 12, two boys, 7 and 9, mom and dad, early 40s, all fit, interested in getting the feel of Rome, the culture, the people, the food, the daily life, as well as the history, art and architecture (the last three we are interested in but not by any means expert on). Oh, and we are a family of soccer nuts!
So, in no particular order, here's what I'm thinking --
Archeobus tour first day or two to get oriented to some of the historic sights and see the Appian Way -- go back to Appian Way later for a long run.
(Group) tour of Rome at Night with Tony Polzer's org. night of first full day in Rome, dinner after.
Visit Borghese Gallery Sun a.m. and picnic and hang out in Borghese Gardens for lunch/afternoon.
(Group) tour of Colloseum & Forum again with Tony Polzer's org.
Private tour of Vatican musems & St. Peter's -- ditto.
Pantheon, Spanish Steps, Piazza Navona, Campo de Fiore, Trajan's Column etc. etc. (hopefully more than once and on walks to and fro).
Walk through Trastavere and up to the Janiculum.
Capuchin Crypts.
Various churches -- not too many, ideas on which you'd see if you were limiting yourself to the hihglights? (Remember the kids!)
Day trip -- Ostia Antica and the Lido.
Hopefully a soccer match of some sort, working on that.
We will mostly walk and I hope that walking to and from all of these things will give us the opportunity to be spontaneous and see lots of everyday stuff as well as the big "must see" sights listed above. Anyway, thoughts and suggestions appreciated!
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Kim,
I'd add in gelato stops twice daily, and be happy to enjoy 3/4 of what's on the list. I'm in a similar boat-- trying to decide how to trim down Rome to fit into a brief 6 days without exhausting everyone. I had everyone in the family give me a list of the three things they want to do or see in Rome, and we'll save the rest for the future.
On churches-- my kids prefer the ones with grisly "bits and pieces" in jars; and glittery mosaics.
And don't tell me you were here to run Boston earlier in the week and didn't let me know!
Amy in MA "Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us, or we find it not." --Ralph Waldo Emerson
Posts: 8691 | Location: Newton (outside Boston), MA | Registered: 17 June 2001
Oboy, Tracy, something for me to mull over for a while. Off the cuff for now though so you don't get the idea I'm abandoning you:
1. Your family's very first evening in Rome, following in the footsteps of Georgina Masson, and assuming the weather is good and your hotel is in some reasonable place: the walk up the steps to the Capitol, then back behind the Tabularium to take in the nighttime view of the Forum, a memorable sight and a memorable introduction to the city, that will stick with your kids the rest of their lives. (I did see your Day 1 Rome by Night on a bus; still, this short walk is the perfect intro to be done as a family in a leisurely way, and that tour by night will include lots and lots of other things, nor is there any harm in doubtless seeing the Forum by night twice.)
2. Churches: S. Maria in Domnica on the Caelian hill; which you would get to by following the Clivus Scauri from up behind the church of S. Gregorio Magno, right near the Porta Capena metro stop. The Clivo di Scauro is about the only street in Rome -- except for the tiny Biberatica in Trajan's Markets -- that remains pretty much the way it was in Antiquity. The walk is not long, and is pleasant and safe. The church at the "end", SM in D., is particularly beautiful, and includes three particularly interesting or beautiful items likely to appeal to all: the coffering of the roof is full of alchemical and other symbols (OK, so that's a bit arcane); the mosaics are exceptionally attractive in part due to the very unusual color scheme: ya get tired of gold ground, how about pale blue skies, sheep and flowers? Finally, your boys ought to get a kick out of a large stone boat outdoors, right in front of the church; probably Roman, or at least a replica of a Roman one that was found there.
3. The Capuchin crypts are a lovely idea for your moppets, kids go for bones and skulls, plus they'll sleep well after that.
4. The walk up to the Janiculum is long, much longer than the Clivus Scauri; and not that rewarding. Walking around the Trastevere, yes; the view from the Janiculum, whether from the Acqua Paola or S. Pietro in Montorio, yes: it's the in-between which is kinda blah, possibly not worth the exertion.
5. The Capitoline Museums are a possibility despite your younger ones: they can be visited rather quickly with no real harm, but they have all kinds of striking statuary, in particular the Capitoline Wolf; the Marforio, some very odd Egyptian columns, and Marcus Aurelius on his horse, all in the same opening courtyard; and a number of nifty animal sculptures (though not as many nor as curiously varied as those in the two Animal Rooms in the Vatican, which with small children you must not miss -- quick sample). Before museuming your young ones, a reminder to prep them for a bunch of nude people if you're likely to find unforewarned squealings tiresome!
But as I said, I'm putting on the thinking cap, mostly to come up with a selection of child-friendly churches, and gebback to you again when I've come up with something.
Thanks Bill and Amy! Yes Amy I was in Boston on Monday, and ran a disappointing time but had a great trip -- beautiful day -- but a little hot for me especially with the noon start! Thought of you as I struggled up Heartbreak Hill. . . We got to enjoy some Patriot's Day reenacments as well and enjoyed visiting with family.
Bill, thanks so much for the input so far, look forward to more to come. BTW, the night time tour is a walking one, not on a bus. We will definitely either add on yours ourselves that night, or even better do yours our very first night (i.e. arrival day), notwithstanding jet lag! Walking around Rome at night is one of the things I'm most looking forward to.
Tracy, I would suggest St. Pietro in Vincoli (Basilica of St. Peter in Chains). I have always remembered that particular basilica out of the 100's we have seen. There is a fantastic Michelangelo sculpture there--Moses. It is huge. As I recall it was to be one of 40 for one of the popes but then, as things seemed to have happened in the intrigue of the time, the project went by the wayside. Anyway, between the chains and Moses, it is pretty interesting. Go to this link and then scroll down to St. Pietro in Vincoli. There is pretty good information about the place. St. Peter in Chains New thought: I just went back and gave this site a better look and found that it is really pretty good. It tells about several churches in Rome. There is a tiny red arrow at the bottom of the first page, click on it and there are more listed.
I think I'll do this by dribs as the spirit moves me.
Think children, think caves and tunnels and sewers. (Among my own fondest memories of childhood was my adoption into a family of vultures for a couple of years; they lived around the garbage cans behind our house in Veracruz, my mother was not so keen on them, but to this day I still have fondness in my heart for vultures.) Anyway, the ancient Roman sewers are occasionally open for visits, with guided tours something like once a month or so, noted in the newspapers; well worth it, I understand, though I've not been. A tiny piece of the Cloaca Maxima, to give it its old Latin name, can be seen across from the church of S. Giorgio al Velabro. Forget the beautiful church -- at least from a kid's standpoint -- but the immediate area is full of curious things for kids: the four-sided Arch of Janus, a very Roman-looking thing, the 2 most nearly perfect ancient temples in Rome are in the adjacent Foro Boario, one rectangular, one round, picture-book stuff, and the church of S. Maria in Cosmedin fronts onto it, beautiful but also the home to the Bocca della Verità, a place for everyone to become kids and stick our hands in, to wit this elegant Japanese woman:
The Foro Boario in turn is just a hop over a bridge from the Tiber Island. They've just got to see the Snake... see Fr. Felix Just's site on this one; but also -- stay on that same page and explore (his site is very good, by the way) -- speak of stone boats, did your boys know that the entire island was carved by the Romans into the shape of a boat? Sort of. Also, the rather striking Ponte Rotto, a big powerful Broken Bridge on the way there (also on Fr. Just's page, or see my own page); finally, inside the little church of S. Bartolomeo, in front of the main altar, a well down which you can drop a coin if you want: every hundred years or so they clean it out.
The bridge you actually cross to get to the island will be the Quattro Capi, named for -- go look for yourself.
All that is an afternoon's outing, no more than 500 yards distance; a lot of it should appeal to children. The churches of S. M. in Cosmedin and S. Bartolomeo are also beautiful, and will appeal to any grownups that might be along for the walk; the former even has a very rare surviving piece of the medieval church of St. Peter's before they tore it down to replace it with the one we all know, to the top of the dome of which you will want to take your tykes and here I'll stop.
If you kids are anything like my nephews (an I hope they are at least better behaved than my nephew....) fo to San Clemente. $ levels of history with mosaics on the top layer and three levels of old Rome down below.
Meet my lawyer-- Gianni Schicchi!
Posts: 4612 | Location: Casa del Fenicottero Rosa, Silver Spring, MD USA | Registered: 06 August 2002
For churches, the kids would absolutely love St. Ignazio. They (and you) will get a kick out of the fake dome. It is half-way in between the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon on Via del Seminario. Also, check out St. Mary of Prayer and Death on Via Giulia. The theme of death is highly stressed here.
Tony Polzer Tour Operator 3 Millennia Tours www.threemillennia.com tony@threemillennia.com
Posts: 1225 | Location: Rome, Italy; Zagreb, Croatia | Registered: 12 February 2003
I read this amusing article in the Observer today and I thought I'd pass it on.
It's about a journalist who took his 3 young kids to Rome for a weekend break. The newspaper had photos of the kids which are not reproduced on the website, but their ages looked to range from about 6 to 10 or 11. There may be some useful tips, but if not at least if may give you a laugh.
Beebee
Posts: 1955 | Location: London, UK | Registered: 09 September 2002
Thank you ALL! Another invaluable thread for me to print and carry with us. I know our trip is going to be so much better than it would have been without the Slow Trav community's input!
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