Stephen
Some great places there and a nice pace.
I'm not familiar with Chiaviari, but if between Genova and CT, I do recall a recomendation of the afternoon/evening Passegiata in Recco, a town that perhaps might be otherwise bypassed.
A friend has just been to Valle d'Aosta (including one or two winery visits). He very much liked it, but no recco's I can give you.
Torino - As Milan sounds like it is to you, so Torino is to me. We've been a number of times and I've posted a few tips in the past here. Getting around is good via the trams & buses. We tended to get Giornaliero (24 hr) tickets for days where we were going to catch bus/trams rather than walking. The tickets IIRC worked out at about the cost of 3 singles. There are other options.
Although this may not sound appealing with reduced mobility, the underground counter-mines from sieges centuries ago are really interesting. The tours are the main part of the Museo Pietro Micca nr. Stazione Porta Susa.
Happy to give specific recommendations where I can (I've posted a few in the past as well here). Some highlights:
- Porticoed streets on a simple grid system
- Rambling gardens behind the Duomo off Piazza Castello
- Museo Egizio (a bit old-fashioned, but plenty of exhibits)
- Galleria Sabauda
- Museo della Montagna across the Po and up the hill
- Some really fine wine bars
- Historically important coffee bars, but also a very high local standard
- A Fine market nr. Porta Palatina, but also some interesting smaller and irregular markets
- Not too touristed (though I've notciced it slowly rise)
- Great restaurants (though our favourites always seem to shut!)
- Sublime chocolates
- Great food shopping (we tend to go apartment over hotel now)
n.b. Travel from Torino to Alba (outside of truffle season) isn't as easy as it could be. Logistically easiest is the bus that left about 10mins walk south of Porta Nuova train station to Alba (two different routes & companies IIRC - I think one was ATIbus but both were listed online). The alternative is the train, which requires a change, typically at Cavalmaggiore. Asti is much easier (on the Torino-Milano ES* route) but it does lack Alba's charm.
regards
Ian
Drink coffee, do stupid things faster