Philippa and I had a very short break in Montepulciano last week. The Politian apartment was super: Ann’s review is already on site, but I’ll add another before long. And we ate well in Montepulciano at Trattoria di Cagnano, Diva e Maceo, and il Cantuccio – reviews to come. Mid-Feb is still very much out of season, so quite a number of places, including 2 restaurants we really wanted to try, were chiuso per ferie.

But the thermal spa at the Fonteverde Terme & Hotel, just S of San Casciano dei Bagni was open, and we spent a really lovely day there. The hotel itself is definitely out of our price range: €400 per person for a suite… But you can get a day pass for the spa for 45-95 per person, depending on what extras you want: the website tells you what’s on offer. Included in the day ticket is loan of a big white bathrobe, slippers, and a natty Fonteverde plastic bag to carry your book, spectacles and whatever.

We booked the ‘fitness circuit’: unlimited access to the gym (though it’s closed from 1-4pm), the big thermal pool (with some of those marvellous hydromassage waterjets for loosening up tense shoulders), and an hour of ‘bioaquam’: a separate pool upstairs, with lots of different hydromassage areas: underwater benches, seats and tubs which direct water jets at all parts of your body... This has one of those ‘infinity pool’ areas: lying in warm water, gazing over the Tuscan countryside (or up to the Medici villa which is now the hotel), while the air temperature is around 10 degC is a faintly surreal experience. If I went again, I'd skip the gym option, and go for the sauna/etruscan bath option(which looks good on the website, and was available at the desk for €45 for the day: sauna, pool, bioaquam).

There’s a lounge area upstairs, with newspapers and an urn of green tea; a solarium with sun loungers is next door. All included in the price (I suspect you might have to pay extra for the outdoor sunbeds – but in mid-Feb there weren’t any!).

There’s a cafeteria next to the pool (panini, dolci, drinks), or you can go into the main hotel restaurant if you want.

It's a lovely drive from Montepulciano down to S Casciano; even better coming back in the late afternoon sunshine. Recommended.

Jonathan

Hi, Jonathan. VERY glad to hear that you enjoyed the apartment -- how was the view in the middle of winter? Did you use the fireplace? And what happened to bistecca fiorentina at L'Acquacheta - was it one of the restaurants which was closed?

Hello Ann. Thanks again for your photo posted at the end of last November which really set the ball rolling. Yes, it's a really nice apartment, and the price (at this time of year €60 per night for a shortbreak) is great! The weather was quite grey for the first couple of days, but turned sunny on the 3rd afternoon, with some lovely views: all the more so (frustratingly) on our last morning!

We didn't actually use the fireplace: (1) the heating is actually very efficient and kept everything warm enough, and (2) there was only a tiny bit of firewood left. Had Giacomo been there, I think we'd have asked for more, but his mother (absolutely charming) is feeling her age a bit, and was having a busy time sorting through all the contents of a recently deceased aunt's flat. But we spent a very pleasant half hour at her apartment when we went to take the money: she's getting a bit frail, but still enjoys her travels (showing us her Egypt photos from last year) - she and Philippa chatted happily for ages, with me understanding most of it but not being able to contribute much!

Yes, you guessed correctly: Acquacheta and Borgo Buio (rec by Slowfood Osterie) were both shut. But we enjoyed Diva & Maceo (very friendly unassuming little place), and Cagnano, which I haven't seen any mention of: busy, with a mostly young clientele - a bit smoky, but excellent food: ate there twice.

Hello Dan/Jake: I'm sure you'll have a great time in May. The apartment is beautifully situated: not just for the view, but for the convenience of parking (few tourist cars ever make it that far up the hill: but there's easy access & egress down the side of the church at the top (S Maria dei Servi, with the Gattavecchia cantina next door) once you know the way.

Thanks again to all those who offered advice and encouragement during my slight panic just before we went. And Dean, if you're reading this: you couldn't have kept up with me: our Punto was upgraded to a Diesel Golf (surprisingly powerful, reaching an enjoyable 180 on an empty autostrada on the Sat morning. And no, Cristina, I don't drive at those speeds when there are other cars around )

Jonathan

I second (third?) the suggestions for Montepulciano and the Politian apartments. We went last October and are returning this year. Now I'm feeling more than a bit of guilt about taking so long to write a review.

Right now, I'm trying to put the rest of our trip together. I'll write a review as soon as I finish that.

Glad you enjoyed it so much.

Peg