I'm looking for places to stay during 4 days driving through Umbria (from Rome to Florence) in early June. Has anyone stayed at Residence Vecchio Molino http://www.perugiaonline.com/vecchiomolino/index.html, or Residence Eremo delle Grazie http://www.eremodellegrazie.it/ near Spoleto? I have also discovered a wonderful sounding B&B north in Montone, Locando del Capitano http://www.ilcapitano.com/eng/locanda.html It looks off the beaten track. Does anyone know about this area?
I'm new at this - thanks for any help.

I've never stayed in any of these three, but have actually seen 2 of these properties and know the areas of all three fairly well; so I can't address your comfort, prices, etc., but can say that the Vecchio Molino and the Eremo delle Grazie look like definite winners to me.

The Eremo should have spectacular views, and as befits a hermitage, is in a very peaceful location.

The Molino is the mill immediately adjacent to the world-famous Tempietto del Clitunno (80 yards away); for once, the prose on a website is less, not more, than the site deserves. The little temple (or church, the question of its first use is still unresolved; it became a church very early on, though) is considered by some to be the best early example of a Christian church outside Rome, and at any rate is a beautiful little building. The location is very convenient to, maybe no more than 150 yards from, a main highway, the SS3 Flaminia from Spoleto to Foligno and the Marche, that hooks up with the fast road past Spello and Assisi to Perugia: but is isolated from the highway by being below it where there should be no road noise at all; plus you mustn't imagine a 6-lane superhighway, just a sometimes busy 2-lane road.

The Montone place, I bet someone else on board knows the actual property; Montone, the dormitory town for Umbertide about 7km away, has seen its center gentrify into restaurants and B&B's and so on. Montone, by my lights, is like Spello in danger of turning into a Tourist Place; the difference being that there's not really that much in Montone compared to Spello. A great deal for me would hinge on how much of a view I had, especially from my room -- if I have a balcony where you can have breakfast or a nightcap, that could be very nice. There's another B&B in the ex-cloister of S. Francesco (see website). There may be a review onboard; and see SlowTrav's Montone page written by a resident.

Thank you Bill. You seem to be the resident expert on Italy. It is nice of you to share your passion. We are looking for authentic Italy, not Americanized Italy. I believe both of these places will provide that. I am inclined to visit Tempietto del Clitunno and stay at Eremo della Grazzi. I just read a wonderful review of their kitchen, and have confirmed that dinner is available. Of course, the view at the old hermitage will be wonderful and the pool... well I think I've made my decision.
Now I must decide on another place for two nights, working our way toward Florence. Do you have any suggestions besides Montone?

Sue, very kind of you, but I run -- dash -- sprint -- to assure you I'm no expert on Italy. Not only that's the truth, but nobody would speak to me for a century if I let this pass! On this board, just possibly, I can pass for very knowledgeable on Umbria (1/20 of the country), which is where you happen to have mentioned; plus I'm the one who responded. Others, however, know Umbria well, including several people onboard who live there, both Italians and foreigners like me; almost all of them know rental properties, hotels and restaurants better than I do, because I have less money and tend to prefer curiously remote places near the débris of a Roman road: my friends tell me "forlorn and desolate cow towns, and holes in the ground surrounded by archaeologists".

And past the confines of Umbria into Tuscany, I basically know nothing. So I hope the real Italy experts on board will be pitching in, too!

That said. Good choice to stay at one place rather than two, if I understand you, you're meandering off from the Eremo near Spoleto, with a 2-night pit stop before Florence.

According to maps, the exact midway point, in a straight line, between Spoleto and Florence, is very convenient to highways: Cortona, said to be a very handsome town. Much has been said about the place, use the search function to find the previous threads.

Fanning away from the beeline, left on the Tuscan side, the Montepulciano area is a common favorite (see search function again); right on the Umbrian side, Gubbio is beautiful and interesting and has good restaurants and hotels. Only 13km S of Gubbio, the abbey of Vallingegno (which I don't know yet) runs an agriturismo that's on my personal radar. Based on your other choices, I think you might like it: website here, with the accommodations under "Services". Another possibility, 24km NNE of Gubbio, is Cantiano, and Cagli 9km N of there, have their fans onboard, including me.

We have a townhouse in Citta di Castello. Montone is one of our favorite hill towns. It is a little sleepy but a wonderful day trip to watch a sunset over the Tiber Valley. Giancarlo and Carmen warmly welcomed us several years ago and served us lunch even though they were not open! Their warmth and charm is typical of the people of the upper Tiber Valley and this experience was a major factor in our decision to purchase and restore our home in Citta di Castello. They have done a beautiful job restoring several buildings that make up the albergo and trattoria. I would highly recommend staying and especially eating at La Locanda del Capitano.

Peter Clifford

Pauline did a short but positive review of del Capitano in September 2002. That review can be found with a search and/or under "Hotels" at Slow Travel.

Peter

Just a short note re the abbey at vallingegno..lovely setting, lovely people, clean and great for road trips in area. stayed for 5 days last May and loved it. I'm a professional photographer in Banff, Alberta and the scenery took away my breath.

Thanks everyone for your input. We've decided to drive to Montalcino from Monteluco. My daughter studied in Florence in '02 and wants us to see Pienza & Sienna. We have booked 2 nights at the Palazzina Cesira. The B&B looks beautiful & Roberto has been very helpful with advice and dinner reservations at Grappolo Blu the night we arrive.