We am planning a 14 day trip to Sicily. We have traveled to Italy four times previously. and enjoy the history, architecture, museums, churches, food, wine, and oh yes, shopping. If I get laid off as part of my company staff reduction (35 year employee and age 60 still doesn't make me feel secure), the trip may be longer and sooner than expected. However, for now, I am planning on two weeks in Sicily + a couple of days in Rome. We have been to Rome several times, but yearn for a return.
We will be flying from Los Angeles to Palermo, and return from Rome to L.A. Any suggestions so far? Here are some very tentative thoughts:
Day 1. I thought a short drive to Erice from Palermo airport would make a nice short day to recover from jet lag. I wanted to stay in Torri Pepoli. Looked like a cool place.
Day 2-3. Open. I'm thinking Agrigento a to see Valley of Temples and Marsala. Would love to take a wine tour. Hotel suggestions? options?
Day 4-6. Syracuse. Day trips from here. Plan to stay at Hotel Cavalieri
Day 7-9. Taormina. I'm thinking about staying at Villa Schuler, but I am open to suggestions.
Day 10-11. Cefalu'. My wife loves the beach. I'd like to take a day trip to the national park and the hill towns. Need hotels recommendations, preferably near beach.
Dya 12-14. Palermo. Wouldn't mind staying another day here. Sounds like an interesting city. Plan to stay at Ambasciatori Hotel. Love rooftop terraces!
This is a rough outline. I'm willing to sacrifice a day or two to visit a great quaint hilltown, but don't want to jump around alot either. In doing the preliminary research, I came to the conclusion that two weeks in Sicily may not be enough. I know that I will need to make compromises. Anybody been to Corleone? The Godfather connection is intriguing. I guess this is quasi SlowTravel.
Not sure why I can't enter these links correctly.
Grazie Mille.
Edited to correct URLs
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Roz,
We stayed here October 07 and loved it. The hotel is small it's actually an old palazzo. the rooms are lovely, each has it's own balcony or terrace. And the views from the top floor where breakfast is served is amazing. The breakfast was probably one of the best I've had. It's location is very convenient to the parking garage in centro, and everything in town is right there, just down a flight of stairs.
The Hotel Cavalieri in Syracuse looks lovely and may be more convenient for your day trips from Syracuse, but I'd miss the charm of staying on Ortygia and enjoying easy access to restaurants. I understand that since my last visit in the city a free shuttle-bus service from the parking lot at Molo Sant'Antonio (free during the day; 1 Euro overnight) has been introduced; it circles Ortygia every 15 minutes - or so I am told.
I would group all your time in Palermo at the beginning of the trip so that you don't have to drive all the way back there from the east coast. Once you are in Taormina and Siracusa, you are quite close to Catania, where you can get a cheap flight to Rome.
I also would suggest staying in Ortygia either in a hotel or B&B rather than off the island in Siracusa proper.
My pick for hotel in Taormina is the Hotel Ducale, which is up in the cliffs, above the busy town. I see that it's still (2 years later) ranked on TripAdvisor as the #1 hotel in Sicily, so it might be pricey (and booked, depending on when you want to go). The same owner also has the #2 ranked hotel, Hotel Villa Carlotta, which is down in the town, near the Villa Schuler.
The itinerary you've outlined isn't slow travel, but I understand that you want to see a lot. I think you've picked great places!
Posts: 121 | Location: Connecticut | Registered: 18 November 2006
Originally posted by CaWino: Day 10-11. Cefalu'. My wife loves the beach. I'd like to take a day trip to the national park and the hill towns. Need hotels recommendations, preferably near beach.
Shannon and I stayed for a couple of nights at Hotel La Giara in Cefalu in March of 2005, and were very satisfied. We both thought the hotel felt more like a 3-star than a 2-star. La Giara's very close to the beach, and the rooftop terrace has awesome views. The owner was helpful and accommodating. (No pun intended. ) My review is on SlowTrav.com.
Colleen
Posts: 16049 | Location: The Beautiful San Francisco Bay Area | Registered: 06 August 2001
With two weeks I would stick to either the west or east and forget about trying to see both sides. The Island is huge. We choose the west and it was beautiful.
Our favorite place was probably Marettimo a small island off the west coast reached by hyrofoil.
Here is waht we did in 2005. I would start or end in Palermo and not try to drive there. Good luck---you may want to see my photo gallery as well on this site: http://www.slowtrav.com/tr/tripreport.asp?tripid=634
Bob, thanks so much for the input. You trip report sounds very similar to what I have in mind. I'm starting the view your pictures. Beautiful!
I agree about avoiding driving in Palermo. The airport is several miles west of there and that's why I thought Erice would be a good first night.
Tell if this makes sense: I was thinking about traveling west to make the full circle, over 14 days, back to Palermo. When I got to that point, I was thinking "going around" to make it to the airport to drop the car, and then taxi back to Palermo for the final four days. If I'm forced to drive through the heart of Palermo, I may rethink this strategy.
I've looked at several hotels in Taormina and whole heartedly recommend Villa Schuler! The views are incredible! Imagine having breakfast or a prosecco on the terrace with 180 degree views high over the sea along the coast and snow capped Mount Etna too. It's just a staircase up to the main corso so is close to shops, tempting bakeries and an easy walk to Greek Theatre and the bus station.
It's a lovely villa style hotel with about 25 modern rooms run by the same family for generations so there's a friendly feel. Years ago lots of diplomats, actors etc were regulars. In the back there's a lush garden where you can enjoy a drink.
I've stayed there a couple of times and would love to go back! Hotel Ducale is very nice too, but it's a very long winding road down to the centre.
CaWino, I live in Marsala. If you do end up coming here, I would recommend doing a tour and tasting at Cantine Florio. It is the oldest producer of Marsala wine. Tours are available Monday-Friday, but you need to arrange English-speaking tours in advance. Go to http://www.cantineflorio.it, click on 'contacts' and fill out the form. Donna Fugata is also just down the street. You can arrange English-speaking tours/tastings via their website: http://www.donnafugata.it/e-vi...us-visit-marsala.php. Please let me know if you have any questions, or would like to meet up for a glass or wine or something. When are you coming, by the way?
I have stayed at Villa Schuler and while there are some very nice things about it, I didn't love it. I found the rooms quite plain and lacked charm. It was also very "un-Italian" from the staff to the guests and the atmosphere. On the plus side, the views are very nice and the bathrooms big. Breakfast is quite good too. Would I stay there again? Maybe if my budget depended on it. But it wouldn't necessarily be my first choice.
Villa Taormina is lovely, but a bit more expensive (I believe the classic rooms do not have views). Location is excellent, a 2 minute walk to Corso Umberto. This is a good, romantic choice.
I also think Villa Carlotta a is a great choice. Rooms and views are fantastic. Breakfast served on their rooftop "gazebo" like dining room. It a little further walk from town though (10 minutes).
On the Corso, there is Hotel Taodomus which is clean, cozy and there are some sea view rooms. I think they finally opened their rooftop terrace as well which should be pretty spectacular.
We're staying at Hotel Ambasciatori in late March. I can give you some feedback then!
Originally posted by Marsala Mia: CaWino, I live in Marsala. If you do end up coming here, I would recommend doing a tour and tasting at Cantine Florio. It is the oldest producer of Marsala wine. Tours are available Monday-Friday, but you need to arrange English-speaking tours in advance. Go to http://www.cantineflorio.it, click on 'contacts' and fill out the form. Donna Fugata is also just down the street. You can arrange English-speaking tours/tastings via their website: http://www.donnafugata.it/e-vi...us-visit-marsala.php. Please let me know if you have any questions, or would like to meet up for a glass or wine or something. When are you coming, by the way?
Hi Michelle!, we did both those wineries and went out afterwars to Lunch (it was good) with Michelle and friends. RR
Google the rental car office location in Palermo. The one we used was near the marina and you can take the big road from the NW and not drive through Palermo. The airport is so far out.
Hi Michelle!, we did both those wineries and went out afterwars to Lunch (it was good) with Michelle and friends. RR
Hi Robert! I've been meaning to thank you for telling me about Ristorante A Due Passi dal Mare. It's now my favorite place to eat! My husband and I take everyone there. It's out in the middle of nowhere, but so worth it!
Yes the airport is 30 mins west of Palermo and links straight onto the A29. I too would keep to the west, its less commercialised and MArretimo or Favignana are beautiful islands. Trapani downtown is well worth a visit. Marsala wines at Cantina Vinci organise wine tours. I've just moved here to Salemi, sun is shining and its great.
** force edit for signature **
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Kim,
If I am allowed to mention another Forum. There are ful details of our Sicily trip (peterandanna) on the Sicily Forum at tripadvisor.com. Don't know how else to give you so much useful information.
I agree with the comments that your itinerary is a moving around a bit too much, but from my experience I wouldn't miss Palermo or Siracusa. Someone else suggested you select a place on the island of Ortegia and I can't agree more. The Albergo Domus Mariae is wonderful. Run by nuns and very clean. 3 star but more like 4 (Fretta linens). Get a room with a tiny balcony right over the water. On Ortegia don't miss eating at L'Ancora (you can search this forum for reviews).
In Palermo we loved the B&B Ai Cartari. Killer location right above the famous Antica Focacceria S. Francesco.
OK - Question for all those who seem to know Sicily - we are going to be staying near Trapani/Marsala and are considering the Agriturismo Duca di Castelmonte. Anyone every stayed there? Or other agriturismo suggestions - we prefer this kind of facility over a hotel.
Forgot to mention that while you are staying in Siracusa you should take a day trip to Noto. Stunning. A great spot for lunch there is Tratt. Del Crocifissio(Closed Wed). Slow Food listed. They are located in the upper old city. You must reserve 0931 571151.
2 places I don't see on your itinerary but which my husband and I felt were among the BEST of Sicily were Piazza Armerina for the Roman villa which was just spectacular and Segesta. If you go to Piazza Armerina (a really nice little town), try to get to the villa about 1:30 when all the tour buses are leaving or gone. They seemed to return about 2:30 giving you plenty of time to see the site before the next influx, or get there first thing in the morning. Segesta did not have a lot of tourists and we were very impressed with the site. We did not care for Agrigento - too many tourists and tour groups and plastic covering too many temples but the plastic may be down by now. As I rented apartments on Ortygia and in Palermo and daytripped from those locations, I can't comment on hotels, except that I too stayed on Ortygia and recommend that location again. In Piazza Armerina, we stayed at the Hotel Selene which was recently renovated and excellent. We did a day trip to Noto, but in hindsight I would probably skip it unless you are REALLY into architecture.
Posts: 42 | Location: Michigan & Key West | Registered: 03 July 2004
CaWino: You might want to look at Villa Athena for a hotel in Siracusa. Yes the temple area sees a large influx of tourists, but, they are probably the best examples of Greek temples outside of Greece. The site is extensive with a fantastic, comprehensive musueum outside the temple area. My husband and I have spent anywhere from one to three weeks in Sicily for several years now and still feel we have not scratched the surface of this island. We did an intinerary similar to yours one year and thought it was one of the best trips we have taken to Sicily - many serendipitous moments!
Posts: 14 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 03 March 2009
My partner and I spent a month in Sicily back in April 2006. After arriving in Palermo we traveled to Sciacca Terme and stayed at the Verdetercnia Apartments
The place is interesting but basic but with the apartment we able to purchase local produce and cook at home. Sciacca is also interesting town and perfect place to explore the western region of Sicily.
If you like chocolate I would recommend a visit to Modica. It is home to one the world’s most interesting chocolate unlike anything you might have tried in the past. We stayed at AGRITURISMO CASE BRIZZA just south of the town of Modica
We used Modica to explore the south eastern region of Sicily.
We rented a car in Palermo and returned it back there driving from Modica through the interior back to Palermo; an easy drive back.
You must find the time to explore the interior of Sicily. The coastal roads can be quite busy. There is 5 million people living in Sicily and most live along the narrow coast that surrounds the island. The interior is the opposite; it is wild, open, mountainous and extremely beautiful. The interior roads are also excellent
Driving in cities and coastal towns especially Palermo requires some skill and focus!
Your itinery sounds teriffic. The only thing I can recommend is that you get the Cadogan guide book on Sicily. We had it on our trip 10 years ago and it was of great help, especially on seeing some towns and sights that are a little inland. Do not miss Selinunte on the western part of the southern coast. It's crumbled temples make a beautiful surrealistic landscape. Also, one of the most memorable meals we've ever had was in Taormina, at Maffei's on via S. Domenica. Of course, when we ate there, it was truffle season, which might have made a great meal extra great!
Posts: 125 | Location: Berkshires, MA | Registered: 14 August 2007
We have been to Sicily twice and will go again. It is fascinating. I did a fairly comprehensive write up for our first trip--with photos. Maybe it would interest you. Sicily It was in 2004 but Sicily doesn't change much so it's still relevant.
Thanks so much to everyone for the great advice. I decided to eliminate Cefalu, and concentrate on Palermo, Taormina, and someplace inland. Now to pick a time to go.
You don't really need to eliminate Cefalu. You can easily do a day trip to Cefalu from Palermo via train. Cefalu was a really nice town - nice cafes, the cathedral was beautiful and La Rocca was a real challenge to climb with a BEAUTIFUL view from the top. I was 55 at the time and made it to the top no problem, lots of places to stop & rest on the way. Also had VERY nice beach but we were there on a day trip & didn't have time, also weather was a bit cool in May, although I believe there were a couple people on the beach. Agrigento also makes a nice day trip via train from Palermo. Day tripping out of Palermo does save a lot of time moving around.
Posts: 42 | Location: Michigan & Key West | Registered: 03 July 2004
) My review is on SlowTrav.com.
