I am back from Italy and had a wonderful time exploring new areas: Piemonte and the Portofino peninsula. Thanks again everyone for your generous contributions.
I have decided the nebbiolo grape is far superior to the sangiovese (for my tastes), and would like to spend more time exploring the towns and wineries in the hills surrounding Alba. I would like to determine a base town for the next time I go back.
I am wondering if there is a town in the countryside near Alba that has similar characteristics to Montalcino in Toscana? The things I love about Montalcino:
1) The entire town has a midieval feel to it, and there is virtually no unattractive urban sprawl in the surrounding countryside.
2) Perfect size, ~5000 people. Small enough to retain #1 above, yet large enough to have a few restaurants, B&Bs, cafes, enotechas, etc.
3) Spectacular hilltop position, looking out on the vineyards below; while at the same time, not remote. Drive a few KM and there are other small towns, as well as restaurants worth driving to.
4) A true "centro" with limited vehicular traffic.
It is really hard to go wrong with any town near Alba. My favorite so far is La Morra, although it is a little on the small side infrastructure-wise and didn't have much of a town center. Incredible position, though. I also liked Monforte d'Alba, but it didn't have the same midieval feel to me as Montalcino, and it also had a good bit of traffic. La Trattoria della Posta, however, was spectacular!
Velo, I agree with you about Sangiovese, I hope we don't spark of Tuscan vs Piedmont wine wars But did you get away from the Barolo area into the other parts of the Langhe or Monferrato? And did you try any of Piedmont's other red wines, Barbera, Ruche, Fresia or Dolcetto to name a few?
I haven't been to Montalcino so I can't compare, but I think Moncalvo, San Damiano or Cocconato are 3 of our most charming hill towns, medieval in feel some with of the old walls intact, surrounded by vineyards, and big enough to have shops and restaurants. La Morra is most charming, but quite tiny, Barbaresco would be another choice that comes to my mind. And if you want a larger town which still has the charm of a small village, try Acqui Terme, Diana's home town. I love my adopted city of Asti but to get into the medieval walled city (which is well worth it) you do have to go through a bit of urban sprawl, but nothing industrial.
Yes, I was able to partake of several Barbere while there, as I was based in Acqui. I did visit Cocconato and Moncalvo this trip. I wasn't quite able to get a true feel for Moncalvo, as it was market day and there were throngs of people...