And am already having cappuccino and gelato withdrawal! Some thoughts while they are fresh on my mind: My most pleasant surprise-Unpacking a bag I hadn't used since last year in Florence to find over 200 Euros I didn't know I had! (at a 1.15 rate at that!).
Found Florence to be busier and noiser than last year -perhaps because we were there during a 3 day holiday weekend and our apartment though very nice was on an incredibily noisy corner. In contrast I found Rome to be much more tranquil, especially in the Pantheon area where we stayed. Because of that I fell in love with Rome more than ever this time around. The weather was the best in Rome too which certaintly made a difference.
Highlights: The ST GTG lunch at Bocodamma, great company, great food.
The Bologna gourmet food tour with Carmelita as my ST contest prize. A really wonderful and informative morning with deli and balsamic vinegar tasting. Bought some balsamic and truffle oil on Carmelita's advice. Followed RAR's walking tour and gelatto advice-thanks RAR
The Science Museum-beautiful scientific instruments.
The Ferragamo museum-a lot of fun and a fascinationg look at a man ahead of his time.
Concerto di Musica Classi at the Chiesa S. Maria dei Ricci Church on Via Corso. Leonardo the tenor touched by heart.
In fact Leondardo seemed to be the theme of this trip. It was the name of our apartment, the tenor singer and the most handsome Italian man we laid eyes on (although there were many) in the chocolate shop Vestri near Santa Croce that Diva recommends. His was the best gelato of our trip as well.The chocolate was divine and my sister had vanilla basil that was awesome.
Once again the Santa Maria Novella Church, San Marco Museum and the beautiful Saint Miniato AL Monte Church with it's Geogian chants and spectacular views of Florence.
Can't decide on my favorite restaurant in Florence yet. Definitely Trattoria Mario's for lunch, although Peppo's next door was great too. The most fun group dining experience was IL Latini without a doubt. Beccofino was wonderful for a light meal with paired wine tastings. Our only dissapointment was Roberto's.
Overall favorite restaurant of the trip was in Rome, near the Vatican, Dino and Tony's. Not only fabulous food but the nicest and most fun staff. Menus discouraged-they bring out their specials of the day. Endless antipasti, 2 different pastas a homemade tiramsu by grandma,not to mention the house wine and lemonincello, all for 38E for two!
Am happy to report that my view of Florence as a shopping mecca has not changed. Traveling with my sister and 2 20 year olds for part of the time certraintly reinforced that. Can't believe how many ceramic pieces I was able to cram into my carry-on. Rampini Ceramics on Borgo Ognissanti, 32 and Ditta Luca della Robbia on Via Del Prononsolo,19 remain my favorites. Found reasonable and beautiful gold jewerly on the Pnte Vecchio at Bellini. My sister bought a to die for leather jacket at Vittoria Maria (I think that's the name),on Brenda's recommendation. Shopping was certaintly high on the agenda this trip and everyone left Florence happy.
We only had 2 nights in Rome so no agenda other than walking the beautiful piazzas, visiting a few churches and eating great food. Stayed at the B&B Pantheon View, which was lovely for the price, 135E, in the best location in Rome IMHO. Had a great lunch nearby Antonio's and terrific pizza at Dar Poeta in Trastevere.
All in all a wonderful trip and I will provide more details in a trip report nd reviews.
It is lovely to hear about your trip.What a busy and rewarding time you've had.
I am soo cross I meant to post a Welcome for you earlier today but Pauline rang me from Salisbury so that put me off form as I was excited and in a flap to organise our mini GTG next week end.(Details under weather in England!) Wendy
Posts: 2747 | Location: Lightwater Surrey U K | Registered: 30 March 2003
In contrast I found Rome to be much more tranquil, especially in the Pantheon area where we stayed. Because of that I fell in love with Rome more than ever this time around. The weather was the best in Rome too which certaintly made a difference.
Colleen--sounds like a fabulous trip, but I find it hard--if not impossible-- to use the word "Rome" and "tranquil" in the same sentance, LOL!! Especially this week around the Pantheon! I was just going through my photos and found one of the Spanish Steps where you can't even see the steps, but for the sea of people (this was a bit earlier in the week--I admit it cleared out a bit by the time you arrived.)
But, I do agree the weather in Rome this past week was absolutely perfect, and I am so glad you discovered Dino and Tony's too...and the falling in love part, absolutely. In fact I had a dream that I bought the apartment we were staying in...(maybe I could make the owner an offer??)
Janet- I have to admit I was surprised to find Rome tranquil too. I agree the Spanish steps area was a zoo during the day but it was relatively "quiet" at night. And certaintly Friday night, the piazzas were filled with people but they their size seemed to be able to handle the numbers better than Florence piazzas did. Both day and night in the Pantheon area was "happening" but not unpleasantly so. Perhaps we just timed it right. Early morning and early evening were lovely. Perhaps too it was because we truly slowed down in Rome and had no particular agenda, especially with all the shopping behind us.
Maureen, I did stay at the apartment right over Dante's and that impacted my impression of Florence this time around to a great degree. Because of the noise of so much traffic on that corner, the aprtment was never a place to relax after a long day of walking the city, visiting the museums, etc.
Thanks for your welcome home Wendy and Kim-and I do promise reviews!
Welcome home Colleen! I had posted a quick reply to you, too, under Janet's post about her being back too. So here is my post to you:
quote:
and welcome home ColleenK too!! did you do a lot of shopping in Florence with your daughter? bet you had a blast! I've always wondered if you ever bought any more water colors from the (?) Japanese artist outside of Pitti Palace...I remember reading about him in your trip report last year as I was planning our trip. I ended up buying from a young lady who was stationed next to him...or was it Maureen who liked him? (blame my confusion on being 50)
Welcome back, Colleen! Sounds as if you had a great trip. Sorry your apartment location was so noisy, but hope this does not put you off the Oltrarno. And to think of Rome as tranquil!
So --- Rampini again! As I am now about to begin putting my Passover "stuff" away, the idea of more ceramics right now does not appeal to me somehow.
Glad you had some nice meals ---- can't wait to get to Italy again.
Posts: 6926 | Location: Montclair, NJ, USA | Registered: 16 March 2003
Oh no Marion, I love the Oltrano side of Florence, especially the piazza of Santo Spirito. A "real" and lovely piazza. Had a great dinner at Osteria Santo Spirito and a very nice Sunday lunch at Borgo Antico. A truly beautiful spot. I will never tire of Florence and all it has to offer, I will just be more demanding about the noise level of the location on my next trip to Florence. Not that I expect absolute quiet in Florence,I do live in a city near a hospital no less! Hope you get back to Italy soon !
Colleen, Thanks for a great report but I have a question. WE will be in Florence for 2 nights and want to eat at a good restaurant the last night-not real expensive-around 60 euros or less for 2 people but true tuscan food. What was disappointing about Roberto's? We were planning to eat there instead of Il latini?
Hi Colleen, Sorry that you stayed on the corner of Via Dei Serragli and Borgo San Frediano. It is one of the corner-arteries of the chaotic Florentine traffic. I walk by this corner or ride my bike there everyday and often plug my ears when I do.
Hi chil147, It was not that it was a bad meal, just very ordinary compared to really great food everywhere else we ate in Florence. Maybe it was an off night, but at 8:30 pm we were the only customers in the place and no ne else came in when we there-never a good sign. Il Latini was much better, lots of fun, good food and the house wine very inexpensive. I will go through all my restaurant cards this weekend as I start my trip report and give you other suggestions. You can definitely get a great Tuscan meal in Florence for 60E!
Angie-I wished I had known that before hand but it is a lesson well learned. I also feel that the agent should have warned me about the noise in that location. My sister has sent me one great photo of you and Alessandra and Chris at our GTG that I will send to a moderator to post once I figure out how to downsize it. Sorry we missed you at your shop but enjoyed meeting your husband and love your work!
Colleen, Can I borrow your suitcases? Mine never even have change in them much less any real money! How did you not notice it when unpacking? maybe the jetlag?.I may not have read every comment how crowded was the vatican? RR
Just found the money in a side pocket that I had overlooked I guess. I had withdrawn a fair amount of euros ver a period of days to pay for my hotel in cash last year and must have just tucked it away and forgot about it. I certaintly had fun spending it in Florence this year!
We only went to St. Peter's and not the vatican musuems. We arrived arond 10:30 or so and the line was long and unruly to get in. Very poor crowd control.It took close to an hour to get in. Howewver, when we left at 12:30-there was no line at all! So i agree with others that lunch time seems to be a good time to aviod the crowds.
I am a brand new member and going to Florence next week (haven't been since I was a teen - 30 years. So I'll arrive in Milan & may go up to Lake Como...would love a recommendation on a place to stay in Milan (cheap) and directions to Lake Como on train. I has not mapped anythig out. Also my friend in Florence said Elba is a fun place to visit.
Any tips on any of these spots are very welcomed!!!
thanks! mimi
Posts: 2 | Location: San Francisco, CA | Registered: 05 May 2005
Hi Mimi, Welcome to the board. I have never stayed in Milan, nor trained to Como, so I'm afraid I can't help you there. Florence questions, I can probably be a little more helpful. Be sure to check the main slowtravel site where in the Italy section, you can find lots of hotel reviews and a whole section on train travel. How long are you staying? I'm sure Elba is lovely but depending on how long you are staying may be a bit far to go from Milan or Florence. Have a great trip!
Thanks for your info. I will be staying from may 11 and flying back out to san franciso from vienna. a little nervous regarding the expense but I do have a place to stay in Florence (Piazza della Repubblica) as a friend has been teaching there.
hope to find way to eat preparing meals in. Is there a nice market in this neighborhood? or affordable small cafe for meals. Do you have a favorite travel guide or website? What do you think of the Green Guide?
I would also like ot bring backsome gifts - any ideas.
thank you, mimi
Posts: 2 | Location: San Francisco, CA | Registered: 05 May 2005
Mimi, My favorite website is this one of course! . There is a tremendous amount of information in the Italy section. Check out the Florence restaurant reviews and my Florence shopping notes for some gift ideas. The San Lorenzo stalls are a shopping mecca for inexpensive gifts such as scarfs, wallets, belts, shawls, and beatiful paper goods. The Central Market has all kinds of fabulous foods that you can take home to prepare, and there are many shops where you can pick up panni or pizza. Florence is a relatively small town and very walkable, so it is easy to navigate and you wil be very centrally located. The Florence restaurant reviews suggest many inexpensive places to eat and I will add more thoughts this weekend as I review my restaurant cards. The Green guide is good but I have to admit that I found Rick Steve's Florence and Tuscany guide the most user friendly, even though it marked me as an American tourist!
I also feel that the agent should have warned me about the noise in that location.
Colleen, you used an agent!!?? I thought we slow travellers planned our own trips! Try Il Carmine in Oltrarno next time. It was very quiet and peaceful.
Sounds like you had a good trip. Welcome back! Charity
Posts: 1484 | Location: Santa Barbara, CA, USA | Registered: 11 May 2003
Yes-Il Carmine was my first choice but it wsa booked for my time period. I used Windows on Tuscany as the rental agent and communicated with them only through email after my own extensive search on the web (including ST reviews of course). If I wasn't so hung up on 2 bathrooms because of 2 teenage girls I probably would have chosen differently. Hey, but it was still Florence and lovely!
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