Hi all, I am currently living in Florence and while I have traveled a lot in Toscana over the years, I have not been to Umbria much except many years ago as a budget backpacker when I worked on a farm there, but didn't do much that was touristy. I have a friend visiting in November from the US who wants to see Umbria and so I am starting to plan an itinerary for about 4 days there. We'll have a car. I am wondering if anyone has any tips on things not to miss. We are both super into "gastronomy". We'll probably be in the area around Montone first and will also go down to Norcia and Stroncone probably. If you know of restaurants in those areas that you think are particularly worth it (I tend to prefer rustic trattorie over formal and expensive places), or if you know of B&Bs that are charming and not expensive, I would love to hear from you!! Thanks, RedRedWine
Chandi, Have you looked at the hotel reviews for Umbria on SlowTrav HERE? Pauline reviewed a very nice sounding small hotel in Montone that might interest you.
HERE is the list of restaurant reviews on SlowTrav for Umbria.
Posts: 14209 | Location: The Beautiful San Francisco Bay Area | Registered: 06 August 2001
Thanks Colleen, I had looked at the restaurant reviews which were helpful but I hadn't seen Pauline's mention of the hotel in Montone. However that is the place I am considering staying. The odd thing is, after exchanging at least 2 emails each, with the owner of that hotel, he still hasn't responded to my question about what the rooms will cost! I don't know if he is maybe consiering giving me a discount because I am interested in using a villa he has got for possible weddings for my clients in the future.
The Locanda del Capitano has a website that you can view by clicking here. There you'll find their published rates and pictures, etc. It's a fine spot!
Posts: 32 | Location: MA | Registered: 05 July 2001
You know, right after last week’s Umbriaphiles Anonymous meeting, Bill, Gavin, Livinwell and I snuck off into a corner and got to talking about how there has been a decided lack of juicy Umbria queries as of late (until the facilitator caught us at it and we got this big lecture on Enabling and were threatened with rehab in San Gim or Venice).
Anyway, here we are with these great questions and where are the troops? Really. I’m embarrassed for us. C’mon Gavin, what was that place you really liked to eat at near Norcia. Livinwell, the Montone area is second home to you. Bill, you must have something to say.
Geez, you leave the mboard for a couple of days and you come back to total chaos.
Okay Rebecca, you shamed me into answering. I like the area around Bevagna and Montefalco. (I think I spelled Bevagna wrong - my road atlas is not unpacked yet.) I also like Spoleto and the southern Umbria area.
Wondering whether I'm the right Bill, since I haven't snuck into any corners recently with anyone, just crawled back under my rock by myself --
No I don't have much to say. In general, I never have any opinions on hotels, since I view the very few I stay in merely as places to park the carcass: if there's hot water I'm happy. On Umbria as a place, I think the reason the queries are drying up is because new people finding SlowTrav are doing their homework, using the search ferret, and finding an enormous amount of material, at least for the 10 or 20 commonest destinations -- and who after all, not knowing Umbria, will have their heart set on seeing Lugnano in Teverina, Scheggino, or Allerona? Furthermore, the search engines out there (read: Google) are by now so good that a scant 5 minutes and people will bump into my site, which while not by any means complete, is pretty much what I have to say, plus links to all the others in one place.
So the specialized question will bring me out of the woodwork, if for no other reason than to admit ignorance! but "I'm planning a week to see Assisi and Gubbio and Orvieto" just elicits from me a mental "Gosh, that'll be a nice trip."
quote:Originally posted by Brigolante: You know, right after last week’s Umbriaphiles Anonymous meeting, Bill, Gavin, Livinwell and I snuck off into a corner...Livinwell, the Montone area is second home to you.... Geez, you leave the mboard for a couple of days and you come back to total chaos.Rebecca
Rebecca...You are trying knock me off the wagon? I've been trying to get my addiction to ST under control, I think I'm strong enough for a quick peek, I login and find your taunt!! Seriously, I didn't respond to this thread because I'm about as far from an expert on things gastronomical as you can be. I love to eat, and I love good food, but to me it is more about finding a place I like and going back over and over. If it is tasty, if it looks nice on the plate, if the atmosphere is welcoming and family like, I don't much care how the sauce is prepared. Blasphemy, I know! I just don't have that many restaurants to recommend. Not because they aren't there, just because I don't bother to find them. When we are "at home" at Montemigiano, we cook almost every night. In the Umbertide area there is only one restaurant we make sure we get to at least once on every trip. It is a truck stop type place at the intersection of the E45 and the road to Umbertide (S219). When you get off the E45 you turn right toward Gubbio instead of left toward Umbertide. Up on the hill on you right is a place called Poggiomanente. You will know it by the big crossed fork and knife on the outside wall. When you go in you will walk through the truck stop part where the blue collar working men are having their meal and watching "jiggle" TV. You go down stairs to a very nice restaurant that is populated mostly by businessmen with a very few pretty young girls at some tables. Atmosphere is nice, food is very good. Tourists are welcomed but not sought after. In Assisi, I like to eat in the basement of the Windsor Hotel. Not the ground level cafeteria all the tourists know about. If you walk through that room to the back where the bathrooms are, you will find a winding iron staircase down to the restaurant. Decent food, cheap prices, no tourists.
Deborah Horn
In a previous life I was an Umbrian sunflower farmer. I'd like to do a past life regression and stay there. ----------------------------------- www.petsburg.com
Posts: 4996 | Location: St. Louis, MO | Registered: 04 September 2001
When you drive Montone-Norcia, you may time your trip to lunch a Taverna del Pescatore, an immediate right turn after passing Trevi. Watch for the single sign. I almost never visit Umbria without a stop here for lunch under the big tent.
Posts: 465 | Location: hilton head island, SC | Registered: 16 July 2001
And if you're wise, you won't pass Trevi without a pit stop; plus if you eat at the T del P, you're in the immediate neighborhood of two of Umbria's great sights, which are about 2km apart: the Tempietto del Clitunno, the oldest known Christian church in more or less its original condition; and the source of the Clitunno (Fonti del Clitunno), sung by poets as early as the 1c BC and as late as the 19c AD and for all I know even more recently.
Bill, I visited the Tempietto del Clitunno a few years ago but did not go to the Fonti del Clitunno. As you said, the waters have long been immortalized by the poets and even the 20th century travel writer H. V. Morton took the time while exploring in Umbria to locate the mystical spring.
Morton's writing in A Traveller in Italy suggests that the spring is on private property and a bit difficult to locate. Is the spring now signposted and readily located? I confess to not researching my question in a guidebook before posing it to you. But, I am at work (and clearly not working) and without guidebooks and you offer more expert advice anyway. I am returning to Umbria in a few weeks and may consider a visit to the Fonti del Clitunno. Many thanks.
[This message was edited by Bags packed on 06 October 2003 at 02:20 PM.]
[This message was edited by Bags packed on 06 October 2003 at 02:21 PM.]
Posts: 1456 | Location: on the Alabama River | Registered: 22 July 2002
D'accordo! We enjoyed Trevi...charming town, and we were served a wonderful meal at La Posta Vecchia (up at the top of town in the main piazza, sort of diagonally across the piazza from the Comune offices). I could rhapsodize about the primo I had - fusilli with the freshest of wild asparagus!
I too ate well once at the Posta Vecchia, and just slightly out of town another time at Il Terziere (to say nothing of several good meals at my friend Franco's house, whose wife also makes the most wonderful liqueurs of everything from lemon verbena to tea to cayenne pepper!) Somewhere in my files I have the name of another restaurant in the centro storico, that looked and smelled very good, but alas even I don't have multiple stomachs so it's on my list for next time.
The Fonti del Clitunno I guess are private property, never gave it any thought; can't remember whether I paid an admission fee or not: if so, it warn't much. It is, however, enclosed and has an opening schedule. They're right on the Via Flaminia (exactly where the ancient authors put them); signposting is very low-key, but everyone in the area knows where they are, of course and can direct you.
Like Deborah, I've been trying to limit myself to quick visits to ST, and must have missed RedRedWines question over the weekend. Sorry Rebecca.
Both my 2000 and 2000 journals which are linked at the bottom of this page, have all the details of our time in Umbria. Special dining experiences are: Granaro del Monte, Norcia. This is a member of the Buon Ricordo group. Not overly expensive and an extensive menu. It you want to experience "traditional, regional" cuisine, this is the place.
“Perbacco” at Via Umberto 1, 14 Cannara This is one place you are unlikely to see another tourist. They cater for the locals, and they come from quite a way away to eat here (don't they Rebecca?)
Piazza del Popolo, Ristorante Tornasacco. Ascoli Piceno. O.K., this is Marche not Umbria, BUT, both the town and this restaurant are within easy striking distance of Umbria. As a matter of fact, if you made this your final day, you could have lunch and then drive direcly back to Rome. Again, this is traditional regional food at its absolute best. On second thoughts, don't try to drive back to Rome after lunch. I just remembered how extensive the menu is, and the various wines just kept coming.
Trattoria Carducci at Fonti del Clitunno. This is just down the road from Taverna del Pescatore, toward Spoletto (only a kilometer or two). This was an absolute stunner for a basic trattoria. The restaurant has many tables outside beside the fish ponds (trout), well shaded by trees, and very reasonable prices.
Del Ponte at Scheggino. Again, this is one for the locals. Beside the river, it is so off the beaten tourist track that only locals or "foodies" seek it out. Nearby is the base of the Urbani family. They are the dominant processors (producers) or truffles in this region.
La Bastiglia, at via Salnitrana 17, Spello (ph. 0742 651277) has the reputation as the best restaurant in Umbria. Owned by a chef who trained under Visani. We located it near the top carpark. It is attached to Albergo Bastiglia. Cadogan’s ‘98 edition says that it is notable for “...beautiful terrace, views and good restaurant.” This is for modern Italian. You can’t pass anywhere near this town without visiting Santa Maria Maggiore to see the frescoes by Pinturicchio.
Il Cavallino is on via Flaminia Romana. This is the extension of via Vittorio Emanuell, two kilometres out of Narni, at Testaccio. This is a 3rd generation osteria recomended by both Cadogan and Rough Guide. It was well patronised by the locals, when we had lunch.
And then.........there is.........I Sette Consoli in Orvieto. It's going to take something really special for us to replace this as our absolute favourite. The "menu degustazione" is approx. 30 euro but worth every penny. Cheryl wasn't going to have the dugustazione because she wasn't that hungry. She couldn't decide what she wanted, and I then pointed out that everything that she was trying to decide between, was actually in the dugustazione menu.
More detailed notes on these restaurants at my journals below.
YOU Guys are just the best and funniest amongst travelers that I have ever encountered....I love reading your extensive, detailed commentary on restaurants and towns. I, like Deborah, am limited in my ability to do anything with food but eat it. However you open me up to many more possibilities, when I read what you have to say... Mille grazie, Cheryl
C’mon Gavin, what was that place you really liked to eat at near Norcia. Livinwell, the Montone area is second home to you. Bill, you must have _something_ to say.
Geez, you leave the mboard for a couple of days and you come back to total chaos.
funny comments, Rebecca, as usual, i might add. Bill thanks for the links which are so meaningful to our impending trip. Gavin...adding the few missing links on my list.
None of these places are like home to me, but in Montone, I can recommend a simple yet completely enjoyable restaurant, Erbaluna. Starving on a sunday afternoon, we walked right past this place, for from the door, it looks just like a bar. Enter and walk up stairs to a lovely dining room, which at this time of year has Autumn accents: Nuts and leaves strewn on the tables. Raffia ties on your napkin. Big stone fireplace. Lovely view of sweeping swallows out the window at lunchtime. While I could have been perfectly happy with the plate of delicious grilled vegetables, a little cheese, bread and the house white, I couldn't resist the tagliatelle, with its mountain of shaved truffles. That's about all I can eat in one sitting.
Lost in my notes is another simple place, a roadside trattoria on the way to Norcia in a place borgo something or other. With a trout farm just up the street, my grilled salmon trout was perfect. It was late, almost 3, yet the kitchen graciously served us in the midst of families enjoying their sunday meal.(Perhaps they recognized our famished, glassy eyed expressions.) I will see if I can find the name. So far, may maps give no hint on that squiggle of a road.(the only road that I have gotten carsick while driving!)
Neither of these places have inventive menus nor fabulous wine lists, but for simple food, prepared perfectly, you can't go wrong. Pat
Posts: 1099 | Location: Rochester, NY and Bonita Springs, Fl | Registered: 18 September 2002
I'll add my raves to I Setti Consoli. We lunched outdoors there a couple of weeks ago. A truly singular experience. I saw the recommendation on the Chowhounds board.
Posts: 465 | Location: hilton head island, SC | Registered: 16 July 2001
Wow! I didn't check this for about 2 days and suddenly there are a bizzilion responses! Thanks you guys!
I had already found the Norcia restaurant that Gavin mentions, (Granaro del Monte connected with the Grotta Azzurra Hotel) from general web research and have booked us there for the night. The hotel gives its guests a 10% off the dinner at their restaurant. Glad though, to hear Gavin's opinion of it
As for Bill's fear of hearing "I want to see Assisi and Gubbio and Orvieto" Luckily I didn't intend to hit those places as I have seen Assisi enough, albeit ages ago, and am definitely interested in getting "off the beaten path" which is why this particular message board is so great. People on this board seem to focus more on "off the beaten path" and have great insider info!
As I read all the comments I thought YIKES, I need a YEAR in Umbria, not just a handful of days! I am nuts about eating in Italy and can't wait to try some of these places in Umbria!
Thanks again! Oh, and by the way, the Locanda del Capitano did not end up offering me a discount which some places do if I am visting their place with an intention of creating a business collaboration. Therefore I looked elsewhere for accommodation as we really can't afford full price at the Locanda right now.... And I found an agriturismo, called Petralta, in Santa Maria Tiberina which seems nice. They offer meals too, and say that there food is out of their garden. And the price is right!!
I've spent 11 months of my life so far in Umbria, doing almost nothing but visiting ("essere turista è un duro mestiere"), and one more month, whenever that next comes, will not make me an Umbrian expert yet.... About 1500km of it on foot so far, and I still haven't been to Città della Pieve, barely know Perugia, and even in my own little dada (Roman roads and Roman remains) estimate I've only seen about a third of what there is to see.
quote:Oh, and by the way, the Locanda del Capitano did not end up offering me a discount which some places do if I am visting their place with an intention of creating a business collaboration.
I have never managed a discount from an Italian hotel. We stayed at the one in San Quirico and they had written to me the year before asking me to list them on the site - and I thought maybe they will give me a discount - but nothing. But, still it was a lovely hotel.
That one in Montone is lovely too - we had a look at some of the rooms when we were visiting Margie. Lovely building and location too.
Just the other day, I was reading parts of one of my favorite books, Fred Plotkin's Italy for the Gourmet Traveler and noticed a comment on haggling for hotel rooms. Taking his lead, I e-mailed three places we have reserved and said I had heard there is "un piccolo sconto" during the less busy times of the year. I received messages back...one said their "deal" includes one free night for a week's stay. Since we can only stay 5 days, they will upgrade our room as a courtesy (thanks! ) The second and third places promised a 10% discount. What the heck, you might as well ask.
We also thought, perhaps our italian friends might get a better rate than we would, so they reserved for us in Abruzzo, at 5 Euro higher than the price listed on their own website! Go figure. Maybe we'll get the penthouse. Pat
Posts: 1099 | Location: Rochester, NY and Bonita Springs, Fl | Registered: 18 September 2002
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