My brother is going on his second trip to Italy in a couple of weeks where he will be splitting his two weeks there between Rome and Venice. I have prepared a recommended medley of places to eat for him in both Rome and Venice (the Venice restaurant list is in a separate subject line).
He will be staying at the Del Senato Hotel in Rome. I have selected restaurants that are within easy walking distance, save for a few which should require a taxi ride.
After reading about the current criticism of Boccon di Vino in Montalcino, it occurred to me that it would be a good idea to seek current comments and opinions on the list below. Especially helpful would be comments/opinions from those who have had a negative experience recently and/or have heard negative comments recently about any on this list.
Ristorante Piperno Antico Forno Roscioli Ristorante Paris Quinzi & Gabrelli Checchino dal 1887 Antico Forno Campo de� Fiori Sora Margherita Enoteca Cul de Sac Trattoria Da �Oio� a Casa Mia Ristorante Ambasciata d�Abruzzo Ristorante Matricianella S. Eustachio Ristorante Giolitti Pasticceria Bella Napoli Pizza Re�
Peter
Posts: 1337 | Location: Essex Fells, NJ and Longboat Key, Florida | Registered: 21 July 2002
And I ate at Matricinella about a year ago and had a decidedly mediocre meal....what are you going to do? Also our last two tries at Bella Napoli were very disappointing after really liking it on first half a dozen visits.
I would add Aristocampo on the Campo de'Fiori for sandwiches as well as Lo Zozzone near the Piazza Navona for great white pizza and sandwiches. Also Armando al Pantheon based on recent postings....
My two cents. If he finds a place he really wants to try most that have been recommended on this and other lists are crowded. Plan ahead and make reservations. jh
Peter, how current do you want? We were at two of those places but last January (2005) - is that close enough? But then again we had three great lunches at Boccon del Vino in May 05 - so maybe you shouldn't trust our opinions .
Giolitti is the gelateria where, at the beginning of October 2005, I declared my search for a gelato that might taste better to me than ice cream to be over for good. Many people had insisted to me that once I tasted gelato from Giolitti, I would no longer be indifferent to gelato (having been indifferent at Tre Scalini and a few other highly recommended gelaterias throughout Italy).
For context, I have yet to taste a flavor of fruit gelato that has not made me think I would prefer to eat the actual fruit instead. (At Giolitti, it was fig, and I'd rather have eaten a fig.) As for flavors like coffee or chocolate, I simply prefer ice cream (or in the case of coffee, granita). I even prefer semi-freddo.
So, if you are expecting Giolitti to be the revelation you've been looking for in gelato, my experience was that it wasn't worth the hike or the calories. (I'd rather head over to Lo Zozzone.) But perhaps somebody who is mad for gelato and has been there recently can give you a gelato-lover's take.
Posts: 917 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 03 August 2005
For those of us who do appreciate a good gelato, I think that Giolitti's will do nicely for a place close to the Albergo del Senato. But, in spite of a few dissenters, I still think the place to go is San Crispino near the Trevi Fountain.
Jim--I am going to add Armando al Pantheon to the list. I have never eaten there but there have been several positive reviews about it and it is very close to the Del Senato. My brother does not really enjoy fish so bacala will not be on the list. I have already told him that he will have to have an open mind about seafood when he is in Venice.
I am familiar with San Cripino and have found it not really better than Giolitti. Both are very good but not great. Exotic and a long list of flavors do not really move me. My favorite place for gelato is at the pasticceria in the Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, I have no memory of its name (maybe Ciampini?), however I can see it in my mind's eye as I write this. It is the one closer to via Leone. There is also a very small place next to the Pantheon I think on via Della Rotunda that has excellent gelato.
Joanne I fully agree with you as it has been my practice to always make reservations anytime I am going to a restaurant, in Italy or any other country. Whether any restaurant is or will be crowded or not, reservations are essential for several reasons. Firstly,that once your name is known the chances are that your welcome will be quite positive. Secondly, just to make certain that the restaurant will be open. Thirdly, you might want a special request--a quiet or special table, a particular wine to be opened before your arrival and/or a special diet etc. Overall it is a courtesy that will usually gain the diner respect.
It is probably me, but I never order the house wine because in the past when I had, it was always very disappointing.
Peter
Posts: 1337 | Location: Essex Fells, NJ and Longboat Key, Florida | Registered: 21 July 2002
It is probably me, but I never order the house wine because in the past when I had, it was always very disappointing.
Peter
I thought I was the only one! Last year we only ordered House once. Sent it back for a bottle off the list. I thought I was just being a "princepesa". At least, that's what my husband thinks
Ristorante Piperno Haven't been in quite a few years, but it is certainly the best in the Ghetto. It's a classic, rather formal and pricey, but our last meal there was totally satisfying. Paris (below) draws from the same repertoire of dishes.
Antico Forno Roscioli The forno for pizza bianca and bread is great. Around the corner in Via dei Giubbonari is the chi-chi wine bar cum gourmet shop, quite pleasant and good but not much of a typical experience.
Ristorante Paris I love it. Both Quinto Quarto and Jewish specialties plus great fish and good wines. Classic style, good value.
Quinzi & Gabrelli Forget it. Wildly expensive and not that good IMO.
Checchino dal 1887 Superb upscale restaurant serving the po' folks' food of 100 years ago with super wines, cheeses, and service.
Antico Forno Campo de� Fiori Love the apple cake but the pizza bianca can be a bit gummy according to Franco. The stand-up filled-pizza (sandwich) shop across the little street is quite nice.
Sora Margherita Cult down-home trat vastly overrated IMO, but sometimes it's what you want.
Enoteca Cul de Sac Always crowded and uncomfortable and no reservations, but good for wine and limited menu. Haven't been in years but last meal was super -- pizzocheri.
Trattoria Da �Oio� a Casa Mia Faux old-style Testaccio trat. Never been but seems genuine and friends love it. Very traditional menu.
Ristorante Ambasciata d�Abruzzo For a real retro experience. They bring you tons of mozzarellas and salamis and then when you're about to burst they ask you what you want for dinner. I think it's still reputable, if you like that sort of thing.
Ristorante Matricianella As Jim said (our last meal there was together; at least mine was), only he was being nice when he said "mediocre." It has lousy food and super wines, and I am almost positive the food would be good if you went with an habitué, but the rest of us poor slobs take our chances.
S. Eustachio Ristorante A good standby serving the Jewish fried stuff, among other classic dishes. Not, I think, a destination, but a fine neighborhood place.
Giolitti A classic and excellent. People get very worked up (as you can see in this thread) about their favorite gelateria. I love this one, and it's an experience. I also like San Crispino and have recently discovered the gelato at Ciampini (also mentioned in this thread, and yes that is the name), which is superb.
Pasticceria Bella Napoli Another standby if you can't do without sfogliatelle and pastiera but not, shall we say, necessary on a trip to Rome.
Pizza Re� I am an enemy of all the places serving faux Neapolitan pizza in Rome. I love real Neapolitan in Naples and thin-crust Roman in Rome.
Honestly, I don't think anybody seems very worked up about gelaterias in this thread. My post was to say I can't work up much enthusiasm for them in general, and Jim just expressed a personal preference for San Crispino over Giolitti, while Precepe can't remember the names of the ones he prefers. It all may not matter much in the end, since Precepe's brother isn't going in optimal gelato weather. My recommendation would be to hang out at Tazzo d'Oro instead, sampling the hot stuff.
Precepe,
I'm glad you're adding Armando al Pantheon to the list. I had a very enjoyable meal there in October, and it's so simple to make a reservation when you are staying at del Senato. Our take on the menu was the best dishes were the classics, but everything was fresh and good.
I had a nightcap of cognac at del Senato on a rainy night in October and whatever they poured, it was excellent! I really enjoy their creamy decor, although I sometimes skip the breakfast in favor of Tazzo d'Oro.
Posts: 917 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 03 August 2005
Honestly, I don't think anybody seems very worked up about gelaterias in this thread..... Jim just expressed a personal preference for San Crispino over Giolitti
Hold on just a minute....
Let me officially register my intense enthusiasm for gelaterie in general (A day in Italy without at least two gelato stops is a day where an opportunity has definitely been missed) and San Crispino in particular.
We try to make first stop in Rome there and, if it is the summer fruit season, have a "susine" or "pesca". If it is not the fruit season, I love the zenzero/canella (ginger/cinnamon) combination, the pink grapefruit and the banana.
Giolitti is terrific also and more convenient to our usual haunts in Rome but we have been known to stop at and enjoy almost any likely looking gelateria on our route.
In Florence, the Gelateria Neri has been our favorite but we had a great chocolate gelato at Vestri and look forward to the new place that Diva and others have been raving about.
We even stopped in Pizzo in Calabria just to taste what was reported as the best gelato in Italy--it was good, but not that good.
Anyway, we still think that San Crispino is the best of the best.
Whew...I am out of breath from all that enthusiasm.....
You could have saved your breath, Jim. I never said you weren't enthusiastic for gelaterie or gelato. I was observing, in response to Maureen, that this thread didn't exhibit people getting very worked up about differences over which was their favorites. At least up until this point!
I had thought it was kind of refreshing that way -- being somebody who thinks all gelato is overrated in comparison to other cold sweet treats and who now feels liberated from the business of having to visit recommended gelaterie. I'd rather go in search of the perfect fried artichokes. Or best gnocchi. Or bucatini all'Amatrice. But don't mind me. Bring out the baseball bats about gelato if you insist!
Posts: 917 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 03 August 2005
Originally posted by Maureen B. Fant: Here are a few thoughts on Pecepe's list.
...Ristorante Matricianella As Jim said (our last meal there was together; at least mine was), only he was being nice when he said "mediocre." It has lousy food and super wines, and I am almost positive the food would be good if you went with an habitué, but the rest of us poor slobs take our chances.
Hi Maureen, I loved reading your down-to-earth capsule reviews, especially the one quoted above! Thanks for taking the time to give us a "local's" take on Peter's list.
...Ristorante Matricianella As Jim said (our last meal there was together; at least mine was), only he was being nice when he said "mediocre." It has lousy food and super wines, and I am almost positive the food would be good if you went with an habitué, but the rest of us poor slobs take our chances.
I haven't been back either.....I am waiting for an habitué to come along.
Having just returned from Rome, I MUST add Ditirambo to your list of restaurants. Just off the Campo d Fiori. Reservations a must. We loved the food and the service and ate there twice. We usually stay around the Pantheon too. This restaurant is an easy walk from there. Oh, and gelato? Our favorite is Giolittis and it is closeby. Another little gelateria, just across the Piazza Rotunda from the Del Senato, is Fragole e Limone, also one that we like in a pinch.
Based on the comments above, I will remove Quinzi and Gabrelli, Sora Margherita, Matricianella and Pizza Re' from the list. Armanda al Pantheon will be added.
The two gelateria that I couldn't recall the name I am reminded by Debra that the one close to the Pantheon is Fragole e Limone, and the one in Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucinda is Ciampini. I will gladly pass up the gelato at Ciampini for a couple of its cannoli with my coffee.
Ditrambo always receives excellent reviews here, but I will not include it in the list as a reliable source did not have very good things to say about it.
Thanks to everyone for their comments.
Peter
Posts: 1337 | Location: Essex Fells, NJ and Longboat Key, Florida | Registered: 21 July 2002
Good heavens -- when I said people got worked up over gelaterias, I was stating a fact of Roman life. I didn't mean to imply that people in the thread (or elsewhere) were swinging bats or being otherwise aggressive! In any case, Rome has a number of excellent gelaterie where gelato is made on the premises from fresh ingredients and a larger number that make the gelato from kits and powders. The choice at the top is really one of taste and preference.
I heartily endorse Armando al Pantheon (moving from gelato to dinner). I especially like it when I need a place to meet someone for lunch to talk in peace. The food is varied and sometimes interesting (good desserts), but I wouldn't consider it a real gourmet destination. The people there are particularly civil and hospitable.
The one time I went to Ditirambo, I found the food uneven, the menu unfocused, the seats uncomfortable, the service slow and inexperienced. Since then trusted friends have confirmed my opinion, but the restaurant's popularity has continued to grow. I believe it's open on Sunday evening, which is a big plus.
Piperno and Paris were mentioned together for fried artichokes. In fact, they are both the best places in town for carciofi alla giudia and no accident. The owners of Paris, Dario and Iole Cappellanti, trimmed and fried artichokes for years at Piperno before opening their own place about 25 years ago.
For Rome's other artichoke dish, carciofi alla romana, Checchino is my favorite.
"For Rome's other artichoke dish, carciofi alla romana, Checchino is my favorite."
Even though this thread is about restaurants in Rome, I have found more often than not that restaurants in small towns and/or in the countryside are more enjoyable in that the welcoming is normally delightful and the food delicious. Osteria San Cesareo in the unattractive town of San Cesareo, which is just outside of Rome, serves only the food that is common to that locale. I have eaten and enjoyed things there that I would have never ordered with offal being common to the different dishes. While I did not have "carciofi alla romana", I bet one could find that wonderful, delicious dish prepared well there.
I guess San Cesareo is an under hour's ride from Rome centro.An interesting day from Rome might be a drive to Palestrina in the morning. Then over to San Cesareo for lunch and then back to Rome.
Peter
Posts: 1337 | Location: Essex Fells, NJ and Longboat Key, Florida | Registered: 21 July 2002
I couldn't agree more, although I've had lot of lovely service and good eats in Rome. Recently, on a trip far east of Rome, my husband and I were trying to get to Gubbio for lunch, where we had a list of recommended places. But we were dallying so much on the way on the beautiful backroads, I suggested we better try to find someplace on the way. As luck would have it, no sooner were the words out of my mouth than I came around the curve and into a tiny town called Ponte Calcara, where a man was standing right at the roadside tending a huge smoking grill. It was a terrific meal and I don't think the place had a name. They just served lunch as part of the local grocery store. My husband was looking through pictures of the trip last night and commented on how incredibly happy he looked in the picture I took of him sitting at that roadside table in front of his empty plate.
Is it too late to make another recommendation for a good osteria near the Pantheon? Osteria del Sostegno. I discovered it while looking for the trattoria that used to be there, and I love its location down a tucked-away alley. Not a gourmet destination, but the food and wine are very good and quite comfortably priced. Go for the daily specials. Gets crowded, so it's worth a reservation. Closed Mondays.
Posts: 917 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 03 August 2005
Topic Closed
.
