We're contemplating a trip to Newfoundland this summer, and I don't see many postings here about it. I've been on the official Websites, but am wondering if anyone has any recommendations based on personal knowledge? We'd most likely fly in from Boston (we live in Maine) and rent a car. Planning for perhaps a 7-day trip, with the first couple of days in St. John's and then venturing out into the countryside. We like historic sites, scenery, small communities, folklore, easy hiking.
As well as driving ourselves, we'd consider a small group tour for a day or more (not big bus tour), as it would allow us both to sit back and enjoy the scenery and perhaps have a knowledgeable guide. Because we're from Maine and have plenty of opportunity for boat rides, whale watching and such, that probably isn't something we'd want to spend to much time on in Newfoundland.
I know Newfoundland is huge and 7 days isn't enough to do it justice, but we may want to go somewhere else over the next several months and can't afford to much time away from work.
Posts: 172 | Location: Bangor, Maine | Registered: 02 March 2006
Ever since reading this book, I've wanted to go. Give it a try if you haven't read it: The Colony of Unrequited Dreams, by Wayne Johnston. A wonderful read.
I only wish I could offer first hand information. I hope that you'll report back to us. Linda
Posts: 645 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
Hopefully some Newfoundlanders will speak up. I have never been but everyone I know who has gone has been blown away by the culture, the people and the scenery. It just so happens that in Canada's national newspaper - The Globe and Mail - in the travel section this weekend they had a feature on the Province entitled "Get Real". It relates to a new company called CapeRace Cultural Adventures who arrange unique tours. Likely they have a website. Even if you don't use them, it may give you some ideas.
St. John's is the party capital of Canada and evidently one of the greatest cities to visit. Gross Morne park is a World Heritage Site. So hopefully people with real experience will pipe in but I just want to encourage you to go for it, it will likely be a super experience!
My experience with Newfoundland is quite limited - 4 days in August 2003 in and around St. John's - but it is first-hand.
We were there during the George Street Festival & the Regatta - great time, but would imagine accommodations might be hard to secure. We were staying with relatives.
We spent a couple of evenings on George Street, went to the Regatta during the days. The Festival & the Regatta are an excuse for Newfoundlanders living in other parts of Canada to return for a visit. I ran into a friend who moved away from St. John's more than 40 years ago & who I hadn't seen for about 15 years. We drove out to Cape Spear one day (good hiking) & out to Bay Bulls for a whale-watching excursion another. Of course we went up Signal Hill one day. My brother-in-law took us around most of the Avalon Peninsula.
We ate in a couple of good restaurants in downtown St. John's. Sampled deep-fried pork rinds, Bakeapple pie and Quidi Vidi beer. Jigg's Dinner for lunch one day. And we went to CHES'S FISH & CHIPS a couple of days.
Driving in St. John's is a bit of an adventure - seem to recall few streets went in a straight line for more than a few blocks.
And you might need an interpreter - the accents and expressions are quite distinctive. We overheard a conversation between two Newfoundlanders on the street one day - didn't have a clue what they were talking about.
People are VERY friendly. One day we were waiting in the middle of a block for my sister to pick us up on the main street in downtown St. John's. We had to move back from the edge of the sidewalk - drivers were stopping to let us jaywalk.
Gross Morne is on the other side of the island - a long way from where we were staying. And you don't want to drive along at least the East Coast after dark. Moose collisions are apparently quite common.
While we were only in St. John's, I am glad we had the opportunity of visiting that very distinctive part of our country.
I haven't been yet either but my husband has on business and found it to be lovely, very picturesque. I think the movie Shipping News with Kevin Spacey was filmed there. We've been to New Brunswick and Nova Scotia and found both regions to be very quiet, no nightlife to speak of, incredibly polite and friendly people and pretty countryside and coastal views. It was clearly the most relaxing and quiet vacation we ever took and very good if you are an outdoors person into hiking, biking, etc. Even the drivers don't give you any grief on the road which was wonderful!
Posts: 462 | Location: Massachusetts | Registered: 11 April 2006
I went to Newfoundland a few years ago and enjoyed my time there. With such limited time I would limit my stay in St. Johns and head out into the Province. I found Newfoundland very different from the rest of Canadian Provinces. We were there on Canada Day and they were singing the Newfoundland national anthem, not the Canadian (they only became part of Canada in 1949).
The highlights for me were:
Terra Nova National Park The towns along Bonavista Bay St. Marys Bird Sanctuary Gros Morne National Parks (which is a bit far for a one week trip).
If you need more specific information, don’t hesitate to contact me. Regards, Sheryl sharawitz@earthlink.net
Posts: 31 | Location: New York City | Registered: 25 November 2007
While I haven't been since the 90's, I would highly recommend it( I SO want to go back). My grandmother's family settled Colley's Point( near Bay Roberts) and if you have a car you'll be blown away by the small town nature of the island. I would defimitely stay in St John's and venture forth from there.
On a side note, we stayed with my mother's 1st cousin( they hadn't seen each other since before WWII wnen Rita served as a companion for my mother in England) and when I asked Rita if she'd ever been to Montreal or Toronto she responded: "why would I ever want to go to the mainland?" Independent doesn't begin to describe them.
Ed
Posts: 7 | Location: Tempe, AZ | Registered: 20 December 2007
Hi Pemquid: I live in Newfoundland, so can offer first hand(but somwhat biased) advice. I happen to think it is one of the most beautiful and interesting places on earth... and I have seen a lot of this earth.
Based on your interests, I think Newfoundland would suit you-- rich culture and folklore, beautiful walking /hiking options. Weather can be dodgy; here we are in June and the predicted high temp for today is 9c. There has been a fair amount of ice on the coast this year, which doesn't help with the temperature but is beautiful to see.
July- October are the best months to visit, weather wise. In 7 days, I would recommend staying in St. John's for 3 nights (has to be downtown; we have the usual suburban sprawl-you don't want to stay out there)for music, theatre, street life, and then taking 4 days to stay in smaller towns around the Avalon Peninsula or perhaps as far as Trinity.
Keep in mind that the tourist infrastructure is weak in some areas; you will have a warm welcome but perhaps not a fancy room or the conveniences that you might expect in 'upper Canada'. And dining options out of the St. John's area can involve a lot of brown food. (Sorry fellow Newfoundlanders...you know it's true!)
Having said that, the food and hotel/B&B options are improving all the time. Best food outside St. John's: Lighthouse Picnics in Ferryland (20 minute coastal walk to a lighthouse for your picnic) and Atlantica, a top-notch restaurant and Hotel in Portugal Cove. And there are plenty of good accommodation options in and around Trinity.
I also highly recommend spending a day or two on the East Coast Trail: I guarantee you that it will be some of the most spectacular walking of your life. Some of the trails are suitable for any fitness level; others require more exertion.
On the next trip, take in Gros Morne, a very different but equally spectacular landscape. It is too far from St. John's to be appreciated in a 7 day visit. You could also skip the east coast if you are driving and just head straight to Gros Morne from the ferry terminal at Port-Aux-Basques. This is the most scenic stretch of the Trans-Canada Highway in the province, I think. The area known as 'wreck house', in the valley of the Long Range Mountains (part of the Appalachians), can get such high winds that tractor trailers are blown off the highway. Listen to weather reports. And yes, moose on the highway are an issue, so it is important to stay alert.
The people are varied but(almost)invariably friendly, warm and accomodating. You will enjoy the variations in cultures and dialects from one region to the next.
