Hi all,

I'm off to Montreal next week. I leave next Tuesday and will be there for a week. I'll be staying near McGill University downtown. I'm interested in visiting some museums and will certainly be looking for great places to eat. I'd love to find a top rate place for steak, a good japanese noodle house, and I'm always up for a good cafe or tea house.

Also, what is the best way to get into the City from the airpot at night? I fly in around 8.30 pm and I'd like an easy commute into the city. I know there is a bus, I'm just wondering if it's fast and easy, or if I should splurge and cab it. I have a man to get to, so fast is always good.

I'd love to find a good market to go to (along the lines of a Portobello Road in London) and am hoping to visit some great thrift/vintage clothing stores as well. I'm a big fan of the hunt for hidden treasures... That said I'd also love to know where the best places are to buy great shoes (preferably Italian or French). My birthday is next week so I need at least one fabulous birthday treat.

Still trying to get my mind around how to pack when I can't take any liquids on board. I see Ziploc Baggies in my future.

Any and all advice, hints, tips, etc., would be greatly appreciated!

Kathy -

We went to Montreal just a little over a year ago (loved it - great city!). We drove in from Philly (6 1/2 hour drive), so I can't really help you with airport stuff.

Far from an expert, but I can tell you some places/things to do we really enjoyed:

1) bicycling along the Lachine Canal
2) hiking to the top of Mont Royal
3) Rue St Catharine, Rue St Denis, Boulevard Saint-Laurent - shop, eat, shop, eat
4) if it's raining, the Underground City - great food and shopping
5) Jean-Talon Market - a great open air market experience
6) the Latin Quarter

Have a great visit, and happy BD

Kathy, just one warning to remember: Canadian dollars are foreign currency, so far as your credit cards are concerned. So whatever fees can get added on, WILL get added on.

Sorry that I can't be of any positive help here. I was in Montreal last month, but it was for a wedding and I didn't do too much sightseeing, or eating out on my own.

Have a great trip, and happy birthday!

First of all, if you are in a hurry to see sweetie, a taxi from the airport to central Montréal - when it isn't the rush hour - should not cost much more than $25 (Canadian, obviously). The airport is not very far from the city centre.

It is actually possible to get to town on a normal city bus/métro - and I've done it many times as I'm notoriously cheap - but I really don't advise it in your case.

I'll have to think about the other things. Although not a vegetarian, I'm not a steak or red meat fanatic, so I'll have to ask around. There are some very good places, and not all are outrageously expensive like the one near the Forum where the hockey players eat...

Montréal is not the best city for Japanese food, even Toronto is far better, to say nothing of Vancouver which is one of the top spots for many East Asian cuisines. Most of our East and Southeast Asian population is Vietnamese and other former French Indochina, and Chinese of course since Chinese are such a high percentage of people in the world.

There are many lovely cafés, which also serve tea.

I'm sorry not to be more specific straight off, but I'll really have to mull it over...

Hey, good stuff thus far!

Marian,

Thanks for the warning! I was just thinking that I should get some Canadian money here for a cab, etc., and it hadn't even occured to me that I'd get that dreaded foreign currency charge on my credit card. Yikes, good to know... I guess I'll bring more cash with me. I wonder if I use my ATM card I'll get charged fees?

Terry,

Great Suggestions! Thank you.

lagatta,

I'm cheap as well. I was a maniac trying to get a cheap ticket! That said, I surely want to get into town ASAP. I haven't seen the sweetie in months now. Oh, and I'd like to get to him in time for some dinner too.

No crazy expensive restaurants are required!

Any additonal information is always welcome...

Teachick, you'll be here for Les Journées de la culture! I checked, the site is also in English, though the English version may not include everything. These days feature many events and open houses (studios, etc) and tours with free admission to many of our museums! You can take a bus tour - but from near McGill it is an easy walk to the McCord Museum (History) the Redpath museum (natural sciences) the Museum of Fine Arts, and not too far down to the Museum of Contemporary Art. Journées de la culture

Casa del Popolo and La Salla Rossa are popular venues for young musical acts:

Casa del Popolo, etc. You won't find any steak at Casa del popolo as it only serves vegetarian food, as well as coffee, tea, wine, beer etc., but across the street in the building housing the larger Salla Rossa, there is a good Spanish
restaurant, la Sala Rosa, where you can get an array of carnivorous and vegetarian tapas.

A lot of the Portuguese restaurants in the area just northeast of McGill (Mile-End, western Plateau) have very good grilled meats, and aren't very expensive.

montrealfoodis about the best foodie site in English; you will find resto reviews A to Z or by cuisine, as well as flavourguy's takes on where to find and how to use unusual foods, and many other links.

One other currency warning: I could find no ATMs in Trudeau airport. And I think I looked all over. I had to change some money at a currency exchange, and the rate was so bad I would have done just as well paying for our taxi with US dollars. (I am not exaggerating here.)

Maybe others will post a list of where the ATMs are located; can't believe there are none.

That is bizarre indeed, Marian. I never noticed any ATMs at Trudeau (Dorval) but I have never had any reason to look for them as I always have the bit of Canadian funds needed before leaving or returning - however at the old Mirabel airport, there were several ATMs prominent. Perhaps google ATM Trudeau airport?

Yes, the currency exchange at Trudeau is to be avoided at all costs. I've never used that either (Euros are easy to find in Montréal) but I did see the rates and was shocked.

So, I'm wondering if I should get some Canadian currency here beforehand? Where would you suggest I do this? I'll just need enough for cab fare. I actually have friends here from Montreal so I'll check with them as well.

I'm planing on bringing my Screen Actors Guild credit union visa/debit card with me as it has the best rates, etc., and I always travel with it. I've found them to be very agreeable and I've never gotten any wonky charges when I've used it internationally.

Yes, I will look online and see if I can locate an ATM in the airport! That's crazy if they truly have none!

lagatta, a couple of days of touring museums sounds perfect! I'll print out all the information and bring it with me.

Oh, Kathy - I almost forgot. We ate one night at Chu Chai - it's not a Japanese noodle house, but a vegetarian Thai restaurant, and quite good, too.

Terry,

I love Thai! I actually always get my Thai food vegatarian style with tofu. I'll make a point of trying to eat there.

Thank you!

Yes, Chuchai is very nice - not just tofu, but other "fake" meats developed in Buddhist temples. It has a little brother, Chuch Végéthaïexpress, where you can take your own wine, and with a more relaxed, café feeling. They are on rue St-Denis near Duluth, certainly walkable from the McGill Ghetto (a bit north and east).

cab fare from the airport to downtown montreal is regulated and posted on a sticker on the window of the cab. the current rate is a flat $35 as long as you are going downtown. Cabs from the airport will generally accept a credit card for payment. You can check with them when you get in. Also, I'm sure the cabbie will take American money, but you won't get much of an exchange rate however Canadian is running about 89 cents American anyway, so the difference won't be huge.

I think there is an ATM on the DEPARTURE level of the airport by the shops just before security. But it means going up one floor from the level where you claim your luggage. I believe the ATM will charge you a fee for using it as it isn't part of a bank.

For steak there are a couple of popular places which are not cheap. Queue de Cheval is downtown and serves steak in what I consider the American style. The waiter will bring you a platter of raw meat to show you what's available. It's pretty expensive, but some people really love this place. The other suggestion would be Gibby's in Old Montreal.

You really should try to go to Shwartz's for smoked meat (medium fatty) and a black cherry soda pop. They are famous and the smoked meat is good. It's a really unpretentious diner type place where you will probably be sharing a table with strangers. There is often a lineup to get in.

For Japanese food I like a place called Zenya on St. Catherine across from the Hudson's Bay store. It looks like it's in a weird place as it is on the second floor, but it has good Japanese food and is decorated in a minimalist style - lots of black. I don't know about the noodles because I haven't had them, but I'm sure they're on the menu. I'm Japanese Canadian and I find the food to be very authentic.

According the airport web site, there are automated teller machines on the arrival and departure level.

Go to www.admtl.com - find the map of the airport and look at the arrivals level - it shows the locations of the ATMs on that level. (I think it's under passenger services)

I'm glad to hear of an authentic Japanese restaurant in Montréal - Zenza, as you know, there is a far larger Japanese community in Toronto, not to mention Vancouver (!)

I hadn't mentioned Queue de cheval as it is extremely expensive. I have taught senior civil students who have eaten there, definitely good quality but pricy. That is a popular gathering spot for hockey stars...

Another option would be Moishes, close to Schwartz's, and hence an easy walk from McGill. Or, as I've said, any of the several Portuguese grill places in that neighbourhood.

Actually, the smoked meat is every bit as good at "The Main" delicatessen opposite Schwartz's, and there aren't the long lines. Personally I find it absurd to queue for an hour to eat a smoked meat sandwich and be treated rudely. The sandwiches are good (just as good across the street) but not worth the hype.

Prince-Arthur street runs east from University (on the east side of the McGill campus) towards the Sherbrooke métro, and the portion east of Saint-Laurent (the "Main") is a pedestrian street - there is a very pretty square from the eastern ent of Prince-Arthur to Sherbrooke Street and Sherbrooke métro.

It was the original home of the "bring your own wine" restaurants, with the Greek Chez Demos, and a Vietnamese place. For many years most of them were Greek brochetteries and criticised as "eating factories", but that has filtered out considerably now and some of the current places might be worth checking out as this is a short hop from McGill. Not all are BYOB.

Prince Arthur restaurants.

Please come up to my area - Jean-Talon market - even if you don't need any vegetables, simply because it is very nice to look around, with all the yummy sights and smells. If you don't have a car or bicycles, the 55 bus on Saint-Laurent will take you directly up there.

Yayoye,

Thanks for the ATM info. I actually found that site but must have missed the map with ATM'S on it! I may just pay by credit card as it seems like it might be the easiest way to go...

lagatta,

Oh, I plan on coming to your area! I look forward to checking out the Jean Talon Market and the area surrounding it. My guy will be teaching most days so I'll be having daily solo adventures, which I actually prefer. My goal is to venture out and explore the city every day, just letting the day take me in whichever direction feels right at the time.

Here is a salon de thé (teahouse) in the Quartier latin: https://camellia-sinensis.com/ (the site is also in English). Another one that is just a good walk from McGill is O-Cha-I, on Saint-Denis.

Camellia-Sinensis is opening a new outlet next to the Jean-Talon market - last time I passed it, not open yet, but I'll check again.

If you have access to a bicycle, we have many cycle paths and as you will see, urban cycling is very popular among Montrealers of all ages, usually in street clothes (work or city casual).

My favorite Montreal restaurant, though it's been several years since I ate there, is Au Petit Extra. 1690 rue Ontario. Metro to Papineau, then a short walk. It's like being in France.

Au Petit Extra is still excellent, and reasonably priced. I used to work very close by and we went there all the time... Au Petit Extra

The only reason I hadn't mentioned Au Petit Extra is that it is a bit out of the way (though easily accessible by public transport) and because the stretch of street it is on used to be rather tough - although it has been spruced up considerably, you might not feel comfy walking there alone late in the evening. (With sweetie or even with (female) friends, no prob).

You can also take the 125 bus (Ontario east). The western terminus of that route is very close to McGill university.125 bus route

Au Petit Extra is quite good indeed. Anything on Prince-Arthur or Duluth is great (the BYOB thing is something every city should adopt). I recently discovered a fantastic and very authentic mexican restaurant called Maria Bonita, corner Deguire and Casgrain. Several places on Mont-Royal are great (Le Pistou, l'Avenue, El Dorado...).Keep in mind that Montreal is mostly a French city and that, well, French food is what you should look for!

A walk on Saint-Denis is a must. The downtown core (more English) is cool too. Old Montreal is a must if it's your first time. The mountain (le Mont Royal) is a great option for a long walk with several great views of the city below.

Montreal is famous for bagels (St-urbain) and smoked meat (Schwartz) but I would also mention coffee (La Brûlerie, Aux deux Marie, both on Saint-Denis).

Montreal is famous for its festivals, most notably its Jazz Festival (the second largest in the world after Montreux, something that MUST be experienced at least once), but I don't know of any festivals going on next week.

I could go on and on about my hometown, which I think is at its best in the summer.

If you have a couple of spare days, I would strongly suggest you drive up to Québec City (2 1/2 hours away), the craddle of French culture on the continent and yes, the oldest city in North America and the only walled city north of Mexico City.

Lagatta - maybe you have better luck than I did at the Main deli across the street from Schwartz's. I went there in August (because I had heard good things about it and there was a long line at Shwartz's), but I was disappointed in the sandwich as was my daughter who had specifically requested a visit to Schwartz's. The service was good and friendly, but I just didn't think the meat was as good.

Funny, Yayoye, when I last went to the Main (with friends who are far more carnivorous than I am) we found the smoked meat very good indeed.

Moreover, I don't like going places where the service is rude, because that is supposed to be part of the experience.

My favourite thing at Schwartz's is not the smoked meat sandwiches, or eating there, but the smoked CHICKENS. They are to die for, with sauerkraut. (Yummmmm). And in season Schwartz's has smoked turkeys, as does the nearby Charcuterie hongroise (Hungarian Delicatessen).

Oh, it is getting a bit cool - the time of year to eat things like that, but still be able to go there on my bicycle.

FLASH! Just found this list. I was walking past the Rôtisserie Portugalia - a tiny hole in the wall at 34, rue Rachel est (just east of St-Laurent, and most walkable from McGill) well-known for its excellent grilled, marinated chicken and other meats - including steak, though I've never eaten steak there. This is NOT a fancy restaurant, to put it mildly, though it is fun, and they do serve wine and beer - it is one of those classic Mediterranean workingmen's cafés. Very popular, usually one must reserve (514)282.1519.

So I found a site with many Montréal foodie finds I'm familiar with:

Montreal list, part 1

Montreal list, part 2

Thank you to all for the wonderful information that you have provided.

As this is only my first trip to Montreal, I know there will be future visits to get around town and eat, drink and be merry.

Here's hoping my printer doesn't run out of ink!