My husband and I will be traveling to Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and Quebec Canada the first 2 weeks of September 2007. We will be driving and we will spend 3 nights in Annapolis Royal Nova Scotia stying at "The Turret B&B" on George St.: we will then move over to Halifax for 4 nights staying at "The Verandah B&B" on Edward St.; From there will drive up to Prince Edward Island staying outside of Charlottetown at "Prince of Tides B&B". From Prince Edward Island we will drive to Quebec. We will be drive half way staying in Riviere du Loup New Brunswick at the "Auberge la Sabine B&B" and then the following day we will drive on into Quebec spending 5 nights in Quebec staying at "La Maison DU Jardin B&B" on St. Ursule in the old city.
We know we will do the "sights" but we will enjoy getting out and "exploring" looking for the off the beaten trail type of things to see and do. We enjoy seeing and then simply sitting back at the cafe and watching the world go by. We will have our bikes with us and plan on doing some riding to enjoy the beaches and the parks. (Do not misunderstand, any biking we do will be "pleasure riding" not "marathon" biking.) Maybe taking a picnic or light supper with us. When we are at the end of a vacation we do not want to feel exhausted but we like to fill satisfied and looking forwrad to the next trip.
I am looking for "tips" from my Canandian slow Travel friends (and those Slow Travel Friends who have traveld to this part of Canada) on any particular restaurants, museums, sights, art gallaries, etc., that we should not miss. A particular "park" that would just make the trip.
I'm going to link your post to the North American Forum. We have a lot of Canadian members who might see your post better in that forum. So far your trip sounds great. I bet our members will have some tips for you.
Marta
Posts: 9490 | Location: Edmonds, WA | Registered: 25 October 2001
We spent a week in Mahone Bay west of Halifax a few years ago, and loved the area. It's perfect for the kind of exploring you describe.
We saw the Bay of Fundy only when the tide was out, and I'm determined to go back when we can see it both in and out. Peggy's Cove was beautiful, but packed with tour buses, and Lunenberg was an interesting place to walk around.
In PEI, where we spent just a few days, I don't remember any particular sights, just lots of beautiful countryside. I really enjoyed it!
Especially since you're an "Anne," you should check in at Green Gables.
We've been to Mahone Bay twice in the past few years, visiting friends who have retired there. Beautiful spot. We can highly recommend The Innlet Cafe restaurant.
We also enjoyed a day trip along the South Shore, stopping in at places like Lockeport and Shelburne - although it may be a bit too much driving if you're only in the area for a few days.
Nova Scotia produces some excellent guidebooks. Here is the online version of one covering the southwestern part of the province.
Somehow, even if you have to eliminate some other things, put Cape Breton Island in your trip. I have never seen such beautiful scenery anywhere else in the world!
Posts: 282 | Location: McLean, VA | Registered: 14 August 2006
I did a little loop on Nova Scotia a few years ago (Halifax-Lunenburg-Annapolis Royal-Halifax), and found it really lovely. I'll try to remember to check my books and stuff to see if I have any suggestions.
One thing I recall off the top of my head is that I enjoyed the nighttime tour of the old graveyard in Annapolis Royal. I was a bit apprehensive about it, because I hate those "ghost tour" type things, which I find hokey. But this wasn't hokey at all--no ghosts or sensationalism, just some very interesting history and a neat atmosphere, with all of us carrying lanterns. I don't know whether it's changed since then.
Posts: 810 | Location: San Francisco Bay Area | Registered: 28 June 2006
Somehow, even if you have to eliminate some other things, put Cape Breton Island in your trip. I have never seen such beautiful scenery anywhere else in the world!
I agree! Plus there is a place called the Barn at the Normaway Inn in Margaree Valley that has a ceilidh on certain nights with local Cape Breton fiddlers that you shouldn't miss if you can arrange the days so you can do it. We found out about it by stopping at the tourist information office as you cross the causeway onto Cape Breton. We didn't stay at the Normaway but it looked really nice. We did go to the ceilidh (a Celtic word pronounced "Kay-lee" that, in our case, had OUTSTANDING performances by 3 fiddlers and at the end of the evening, a barn dance for everyone there)and really enjoyed it.
I'll try not to be too long-winded, but a fabulous way to spend one of your Halifax days would be the Sambro Loop (scroll down toward the bottom of the page).
To get started, make your way over to Quinpool Road and along to the Armdale Rotary. Drive around the Rotary and take the exit onto Herring Cove Road (route 349). At the lights, take the left fork onto Purcells Cove Road (route 253).
The stops along the way:
Sir Sandford Fleming Park (or more commonly called "the Dingle") has some lovely walking paths, plus the Dingle Tower itself is pretty cool.
York Redoubt is one of my all time favourite picnic spots. I just love to wander around enjoying the salt air, the sounds of nature, the greenery and the ruins of the old fort overlooking the harbour. I have never met more than a handful of people there. It beats me why it's not more popular, but I'm not complaining because the lack of crowds is certainly one of this old fort's charms.
Chebucto Head Lighthouse - continue along route 253 until the end, then left onto route 349. Roughly 15 kilometres from that intersection, you'll come to Duncan's Cove Road on the left. Turn down here and go another km or so until the road forks. Keep left at the fork and drive out to the lighthouse (I believe it is the oldest one in North America.)
I love love LOVE it here! It's totally my happy place. Park the car on the side of the road just before the lighthouse (there's a very small semi-gravelled patch) and then walk across the bog (wear old shoes, although usually can step your way through without getting wet feet) to the rocks. Just sit at the top and be at peace with the world while the waves rush around the rocks below you, throwing up spray, with the wide blue (or probably grey) Atlantic ocean stretched out before you. (Be careful not to venture too far down onto the rocks, though. I've not heard of any accidents here, but more than a few people have been swept off the rocks at Peggy's Cove with fatal consequences.)
Crystal Crescent Beach - if you haven't lingered too long at Chebucto Head, you should have time to take in Crystal Crescent Beach, and perhaps hike along to Pennant Point. I haven't been out here in far too long, but I think there is now a boardwalk and outhouses, although still unlikely to be crowded. Once upon a time, the gossip of the day was a reputed nude beach down the shore from Crescent, but I never investigated the truth of that rumour!
By now the day is likely just a shadow of its former self, and your tummy's rumbling for supper. Continue in the same direction and route 349 morphs into the Old Sambro Road (route 306), and you will loop back around to Halifax where you can round out your day with a bite of supper. Here are a few popular suggestions but there are tons of other great food and drink options to choose from:
Looking for the best nachos in town, check out the Economy Shoe Shop on Argyle Street. Craving fries? Fries & Co. on Connolly Street, of course (reputedly a fave of former GG Adrian Clarkson). In the mood for more of a meal? Try Il Mercato trattoria (Northern Italian), The Great Wall (Cantonese and Szechuan), or Hamachi House (sushi). Or, if money's no object in your pursuit of fine dining, Bish is your place (or so I've heard...this one's out of my price range so I'm only going by hearsay.)
Gardens/Parks: Point Pleasant Park - south end of Tower Road, another lovely picnic area. The park was ravaged by Hurricane Juan in September 2003, with upwards of 90% of its mature growth destroyed or seriously damaged. It's still a great park, just sadly a lot more open than it used to be! Public Gardens - gorgeous original formal Victorian Public Garden on corner of South Park Street and Spring Garden Road. Another victim of Hurricane Juan, but not to the same extent. World Peace Pavilion - take a fun little ferry ride over to Dartmouth and stroll around Ferry Terminal Park and check out this tribute to global peace and harmony. If you get hungry while over there, stop by MacAskill's and enjoy a meal while overlooking the skyline of Halifax and the harbour. (Or return to Halifax for a meal with a view at Windows at the World Trade Centre.)
Hopefully this gives you some ideas for your four days in Halifax. It really is a lovely little city, with lots of quiet spaces, restaurants of many different cuisines, a happenin' nightlife, and loads of options for daytrips.
Somehow, even if you have to eliminate some other things, put Cape Breton Island in your trip. I have never seen such beautiful scenery anywhere else in the world!
Double-ditto! My home town is twinned with Baddeck, Nova Scotia, which is on Cape Breton Island, a part of the province on Nova Scotia. It is simply spectacular. The people are wonderful, the scenery is gorgeous and the history is totally unexpected!
There are lobster suppers all around the island, homecooked and fresh from the boats. The oat cakes are so completely addicting, you'll not leave without a few six-packs of 'em in your carry-on. Seafood chowder at the Cedar House Bakery and Restaurant is so thick that your fork works better than a spoon.
What else? Well, there are four of the most wonderfully scenic and challenging golf courses in the country, right there on Cape Breton...the Fabulous Foursome. Bell Bay Golf Course...stunning! Highland Links...perfection... Dundee Dundee Resort is breathtaking! Le Portage has one of the best holes of golf...the 160 yard par-3 9th.
Any questions, please ask...you are going to God's country, in my opinion!
Alexander Graham Bell lived much of his life on the hills outside of Baddeck, in his home that he built there, named Beinn Bhreagh. He and his wife, Mabel and family lived at Beinn Bhreagh and many of his inventions and experiments were conducted in that area...his development of hydrofoils, tetrahedral kites, the metal detector, the metal jacket that assisted in breathing, the audiometer that detects minor hearing problems...and many other inventions too numerous to mention. The Silver Dart is one that I didn't know he was involved with, until I visited the museum in Baddeck! If you go to Baddeck, please take a morning or afternoon to wander through the Alexander Graham Bell Museum, and you'll come away with a much greater appreciation of this great man who I used to think only invented the telephone. How wrong I was!
If you stay just long enough, you might even get an invite to someone's kitchen party...a-MAZ-ing! A bunch of the fellers get together in someone's kitchen, where the food overflows and the beer and wine flow over, while several of the fiddlers, guitar players, singers and stepdancers get it rollin'...PAR-TAAAAYYYYY!
And, if you stop at the Highwheeler Bakery for oat cakes and a cup of strong, Baddeck tea, please say 'Hi!' to them from me.
"I have travelled the globe. I have seen the Canadian and American Rockies, the Andes and the Alps and the highlands of Scotland, but for simple beauty, Cape Breton outrivals them all." Alexander Graham Bell, about his livelong love, Baddeck and Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia Brenda
I did my trip around Nova Scotia and PEI in 1993 in connection with a home exchange in Bedford, outside of Halifax, NS. One thing we did was to go whitewater rafting on the tidal bore in Schubenacadie. It was spectacular. For my son, the highlight was falling in. Quite frankly, I think he did it on purpose. He was back in the boat laughing before we knew he left, and, of course, he had a life jacket on. He was a good swimmer and stupidly fearless. It really is a wild ride. If you like rafting, do it.
We also went to the "Anne of Green Gables" musical in Charlottetown, PEI. My daughter was very into "Anne" in those days. One thing people do not realize is how large NS is. The mercator projection on world maps makes it look smaller than it really is. Lots of driving.
I do agree about those lobster suppers. Almost every church has them all summer. They are big fundraisers for them and they are delicious. We went to one in Baddeck.
Things we did not have time for that I wish we had done: whale watching (Digby Neck was sort of out of the way for us), puffin watching and the Marconi station where the first wireless message was sent.
There is also Fort Louisbourg if you are interested in things historic.
Tourism is very organized in NS. Every little town has a tourist information booth. If you are driving around and need a place to stay, they will find you one quickly.
I call NS my most successful home exchange. The kids next door were the same ages as mine and we did a lot of things together. For years later, every time we flew over NS going to Europe, we all had to yell "Hi" to the kids who lived near us in Bedford! The staff on the airlines probably thought we were nuts! Come to think of it, we are nuts! LOL
Posts: 282 | Location: McLean, VA | Registered: 14 August 2006
One thing people do not realize is how large NS is. The mercator projection on world maps makes it look smaller than it really is. Lots of driving.
This is so true. I would strongly urge you to leave Cape Breton for another time, or drop one of your other areas entirely. You can't fit all three of those areas into one week and do them any kind of justice. You won't go wrong sticking with the Valley and Halifax either though, both are great places to visit. I'll post a few thoughts on Valley attractions and rambling routes later...must head off to work right now!
I have been to Nova Scotia a number of times to visit my sister. Those who live on Cape Breton Island (and my sister does) would wonder why anyone would want to visit down south (i.e Halifax) while my friends who live in Halifax would question why anyone would want to go to the island! For me both have their charms.
Many have mentioned the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton island. It has been identified as one of the greatest drives in the world. I have to admit that when I think of Cape Breton I think of three things - the trail, Louisbourg (an amazing historical site), and Baddeck with it wonderful views and the Alexander Graham Bell museum.
Off of the island the best thing in my opinion to do is to explore. Our best adventures were when we ignored the planned route and just took a different turn to see where we ended up.
You will find some wonderful and colourful folk art in NS.
I have never been to PEI but many of my friends have been and love it. They find it relaxing and rejuvenating.
Quebec City is an amazing city. Many say it is the most 'European' city in NA. The lower town (where you'll be staying) has many preserved buildings, most of which are now galleries, restaurants, and shops. It is a great city to just explore. There is a street where area artisits set up their wares and you can get soem wonderful original art there.
Jerry
The traveler sees what he sees. The tourist sees what he has come to see. ~G.K. Chesterton
My Thanks to everyone who has reponded. I am exploring each and every web site provided to gather more information. I am trully excited about this upcoming trip and can hardly wait for my husband and I to start this adventure.
Thank you folks again for your "tips". This is great.
Wow! It seems as if NS,PEI are the places to go this summer. I am planning a trip likewise and I see a lot of interest in this area on Rec.travel.USA Canada. Because I cannot get a good flight to Halifax using my FF miles I am flying to Bangor and driving to PEI then down to NS. My question: when I travel I don't like to plan ahead but just meander and find a place to stop for a night or so. My wife is concerned that we may have a hard time finding lodging that way. I have looked through Doers & Dreamers and it seems that there is an abundance, nay, a surfeit of lodging in NS. And those are just the ones advertising in that book. Does my wife have a legitimate concern or can we freewheel it safely. Thanks, Joe in Austin
Posts: 19 | Location: Austin, Texas ( an oasis) | Registered: 23 March 2007
Does my wife have a legitimate concern or can we freewheel it safely
Joe, it depends on the when and where. If you arrive in Halifax on the weekends of Canada Day or Natal Day, for example, you could run into problems finding a room at the last minute. Also, during July and August, places in the more heavily visited areas (Annapolis Valley, South Shore, Halifax) book up quickly. We jumped in the car and decided to spend the weekend in the Annapolis Valley a couple summers ago and had a devil of a time finding a room because everything was booked solid. We did eventually get one, but wasted a couple hours finding it. Mind you, we were a family of four so you would probably find it far easier to find one double room. I'm inclined to say go for it as far as your plans to "wing it" since that gives one so much more freedom, but be forewarned that bytimes it can be difficult to find last minute lodging.
Sonicboomer - I live on your path from Bangor to PEI. According to MapQuest, it is recommended that you cross into Canada at Houlton, Maine, going by Woodstock, N.B. (where I live)
You will have a long day drive - we are about 1.5 hours from Bangor and and then another 4 hours to PEI. I would definitely make reservations for PEI- it is very popular and you will not want to drive around looking for a place to stay. Did you get the tourism package from them yet because they lists oodles of places and they are well described. I used to spend every summer there for quite awhile and it's a super place!
Another alternative is to stop on the way to PEI at Shediac N.B. - it's a small place on the water with beaches also, a few B&Bs and small hotels/motels and cafes and seafood restaurants. There are a few fabulous places in Cap Pele, just a few miles up the road towards PEI that are very well known for fish and chips (Freds and Chez Camille I think they are) worth checking out! This is part of the Acadian area of New Brunswick, both French and English are spoken generally however.
If you are going near Woodstock near lunch time, get off the highway and go downtown (only 5,000 population) and on Main Street, stop at Fusion Cafe - for great coffees, baked goods, soups, wonderful sandwiches, wraps, and salads, plus it has a liquor license and stays open in the evening with a small dinner menu.
Have a great trip! and follow the "maritime lead" -- slowwww down and enjoy the the scenery!
Our trip to PEI was (many) years ago, but likely one of the most beautiful places we've visited.
Quirkey memory: Reservations for our B&B lost, no vacancies. We found another, booked on the spot and continued our exploring - planning to return after dinner. We did...and observed a high number of elderly and disabled in the "lobby". Interesting. Up to the room, where grab-bars and pull-cords abounded. It hit us then that we were B&B'ing in a retirement home!
Posts: 902 | Location: Edmonds, WA | Registered: 01 April 2006
In the back of my mind, I've been thinking of a trip to Cape Breton for years, ever since Victoria magazine (now defunct) did a photo shoot there. My older son has loved everything "Scottish" ever since he learned about the Lochness Monster. Is one part of the summer better to visit than the other due to crowds or events? My kids get off for the summer the first week of June thru Labor Day. I was thinkig early June or maybe wait until the last week of August. Does it really matter?
Well, unless things have drastically changed in the past few years, you will never run into what most people think of as "crowds of tourists" in Cape Breton.
Because you are either in the "highlands" or "coast" - or driving along the place that is both ...summer weather is not a promise in June - as in most Maritime destinations. So if you can opt for July, it would be better. That would be the heighth of the tourist season but since it is all primarily rural...with lots and lots of open spaces, it doesn't matter that much.
August is also nice but from mid-August on...it cools down quite stunningly at night - you sometimes feel that fall chill in the air in the evening.
I geuss I am saying anytime in July and early August would be your best chance at clear warm days...The average temperature in July is 73 and 72 in August and there is marginally more rain in August than in July.
I hope you have a great trip - it is a wonderful destination.
Thanks, Debrah! I was just reading about fly fishing in the area (my husband's hobby). I'll have to find out if it's any good in the summer. We actually love that fall "nip in the air" - I think that's my favorite kind of weather!
Originally posted by sonicbloomer: We are going in August also,arriving in Bangor on the 13th. Right now I am looking into The Charles Inn in Bangor. Any comments anyone? TIA,Joe
We are trying to fly on the cheap and use up some of our FF miles. I waited too late to get a good schedule from Austin to Halifax so I settled for Bangor with the intent to drive one way and take the Cat ferry back on the return trip. I am also interested in seeing that part of the country so the drive will not be "wasted" entirely.
Posts: 19 | Location: Austin, Texas ( an oasis) | Registered: 23 March 2007
Topic Closed
...summer weather is not a promise in June - as in most Maritime destinations. So if you can opt for July, it would be better. That would be the heighth of the tourist season but since it is all primarily rural...with lots and lots of open spaces, it doesn't matter that much.
